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1st gen sport 4.0 possible build question

Nu2This

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Hi all, I am new to this forum as I just purchased my first explorer. Got it from a friend of a co-worker for very cheap ($300). At the time of sale there were no known major issues. As I got it back home and decided to take it for a quick spin around the neighborhood noticed a few things.

1. Very hesitant when accelerating.

2. Lots of white smoke out tail pipe under mild/heavy acceleration.

3. Some spitting and sputtering.

So I decided to do a tune up and as I pulled the plugs from the drivers side of the motor, clyinder 1 and 3 were coated in coolant/oil mixture. So I then looked inside the radiator and couldn't see much coolant. I did some searching around the forums and found that a crack in the cylinder heads is very common on these motors.

I started tearing the motor apart but didn't get too far before it got dark out. If it turns out that the head is cracked, would I be better off repairing the head (if repairable) or replacing the head with a more durable head?

I would like to eventually do a complete build with this motor as it will be a wheeler/New England winter driver and just all around fun truck.

Please help!
And thank you for all future input!
 


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Anime

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It could be a cracked head, or just a blown head gasket.

It's common for the heads to crack, but it's more common on the 90TM heads that were used on the 91-92 Explorers. 93-94 Explorers have 93TM heads which are a little stronger. Either way, they will crack when the engine is severely overheated or runs hot long enough.

If you find a crack, or anything at all, you are much better off just replacing BOTH heads with more durable aftermarket heads. The aftermarket units are thicker and heavier like they should be, so they are stronger.

While you're tearing things apart, you should also consider replacing the rocker arms, they are soft and get indentations from the pushrods, and cause valve clatter at high mileage (100-200K) so it's a good time to replace them.
 




Nu2This

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Ok thanks! Any suggestions on where to start looking for aftermarket heads? I'm looking to do a build over time as it is not currently on the road. Also any good suggestions on other parts while everything would be apart. I'm probably looking to spend $1700-$2500 to make this motor more dependable and powerful.
 




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Get 'em whereever they're cheapest and where you get the best warranty. There used to be a number of places to get them from, these days there are only a few.

Almost all if not all of the aftermarket 4.0L OHV heads seem to be made in Australia. I've no idea why, the motor was designed and made in Germany and you would think China would make engine heads.

Anyway, Clearwater Cylinder Heads in Florida sells them and seems ok. You might also try your local auto parts stores or see if there are any engine rebuilders or performance shops around that can get heads, they might be able to get an even better price, and theres a good chance it's going to be the same Australian-made heads no matter where you buy.

$1700-2500 will get you a completely rebuilt motor, but keep in mind, you can probably track down a donor 93-94 for just a few hundred and just swap parts. Heads are one of the few things worth buying new either way, but just keep in mind you'll probably never get back the money you spend on the engine if you go that far.

Here's Creager's build thread if you haven't looked at it already;

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152071

if you keep it to mostly stock parts and don't try to go the 'performance' route, you can be well under budget.
 




Nu2This

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I should probably mention this is my first time ever rebuilding a motor. I have experience with most other mechanical repairs, other than transmission. But first ever motor rebuild.
 




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As long as you have another vehicle to drive or can just take your time, it'll be fine, the 4.0L OHV V6 is a pretty straightforward motor like an old V8, so it'd be a pretty good introduction to engine rebuilding.

That said, you also don't have to completely rebuild the entire motor, often times these motors have barely any wear even at 200K if they've been properly maintained and had regular oil changes and no other issues. You can still pull the motor and pull the oil pan to replace things like the oil pump and gasket and seals, along with the heads and all the gaskets on the top end, but if things look good, you can save the piston rings and bearings and all that for a complete rebuild down the road.


If you've got the time and money and tools though, all the info you need to rebuild the motor top to bottom is here on the forum. Grab a factory manual online for cheap and you'll have even more info and an even easier time with specs and disassembly/re-assembly.
 




Nu2This

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Yes I do have another vehicle, this is a project truck for the time being. I'm looking to do a complete rebuild from the beginning. Just a lot of the stuff is foreign to me. Reading creagers forum I found myself quite confused at times. I know the 95tm heads will work with the factory block/piston setup. Engine Quest sells fully loaded cylinder head assemblies just don't know how much they are. I havent had a chance to contact them. Also the transmission should be rebuilt also but don't know if there is an upgrade to the stock trans available of just tear that apart as well?
 




Nu2This

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Ok so a lot has happened since I last post in this thread. Most of my funds for this build have gone to more important things. Also I haven't been able to find many parts for this motor, it seems like nobody makes 95tm heads now. Anyone have any links to where I can find parts, other than MoranaV6racing, they have great parts but way too pricey. Also have some transmission/drivetrain questions.

This is going to be a slow going build now.
 




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Nu2This

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Thanks for the link, but that seems high for just 1 head. Also im looking for the 95TM to raise compression.
 




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They have the 95TM
 




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FR-425

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Better yet go 5.0 V8 swap!
 




jd4242

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Thanks for the link, but that seems high for just 1 head. Also im looking for the 95TM to raise compression.

Nobody makes true 95tm heads anymore.engine quest was the only.last I talk with them they said they may have some in stock.I run the 95tm on my explorer and run the 93tm on my ranger.good heads.here is where I got my 93tm, you can send him a message and ask if he has any of the 95tm left.they no longer make them tho..you can use 98tm but as you probably know,in stock form they flow less


http://www.ebay.com/itm/170434742301?redirect=mobile
 




jd4242

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Buy some 988 springs, comp cams 422 cam and set of SI valves.your top end is done;)you dont wanna buy assembled heads
 




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That's the other seller I couldn't think of!

aamidwest. Thank's jd
 




Nu2This

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So I messaged AAMidwest to see if they had any 95TM heads left and they don't. So it looks like 93TM heads are my best option??
 




jd4242

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So I messaged AAMidwest to see if they had any 95TM heads left and they don't. So it looks like 93TM heads are my best option??

Yes as far as flow in stock form..they wont raise compression tho..if you want to raise compression run 98tm but in stock form they have smaller exhaust ports and flow less..with 10:1 your need to run 90+ gas though
 




Nu2This

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Yes as far as flow in stock form..they wont raise compression tho..if you want to raise compression run 98tm but in stock form they have smaller exhaust ports and flow less..with 10:1 your need to run 90+ gas though

Well I am planning on having which ever head is best ported.
Also im having some trouble finding valves. Went to the SI site, maybe I just over-looked them but I didn't see anything.
 


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jd4242

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Well I am planning on having which ever head is best ported.
Also im having some trouble finding valves. Went to the SI site, maybe I just over-looked them but I didn't see anything.

Port work is VERY VERY expensive...IF you do plan on it then purchase 98tm.it has a smaller round port that is easier to port, requires more work but easier to enlarge a round hole than a egg shape.I know this personally as I just ported my 93tm but couldnt use 98 because of the smaller combustion chambers. .your also need to port match your headers..

SI stopped selling the valves but just started back up.your need to call them, should run $12-13 per valve.they are called port flow swirl polished. .
 




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