1st SAS Explorer Project

[Kirby N.]

BC Broncos sells 7" springs. I am running them and I like them. I set my coil buckets up so they sit higher for less lift. I am probably in the 7" lift range. I clear a 37" with minimal trimming, but 40s would require mucho trimming. It helped my rear clearance to move my axle back a bit. The front will help huge if you move it forward. 3" forward is about max from what I could see with out relocating the steering box. (this is with a 1st gen though).

 

[flash14]

Do you mind posting some pics for ref. Thx

Well I got some work done yesterday with help form my brother and a good buddy and all it cost me was some Chinese take out. Most of the front suspension removal and cutting was done so I passed the point of no return. Now I'm just having second thought about going coil sprung vs. leafs thanks to my brother. Any thoughts out there.

 

[Burns]

You sure dont take much time to do things do ya?

Good work so far and just like everyone else said....Its Huge...

 

[flash14]

Thanks, I'm just going one step at a time. I still need to order some stuff for the front end, I just have to make sure I'm going to stay with the coil set up. I'm in no hurry since the Ex set up in the garage and it's not my DD. I just want to do it right the first time.

 

[justsomeguy]

I used F150 buckets, I dropped them down so they were about level with the frame.... and pushed them out 2 inches on each side to line up the 5.5 Wildhorse springs for an early bronco. I run 35s....... 40s would scare me a little. Maybe if I had sway bars it would cut down on the body roll!

Top steer knuckles made it easier for the track bar and eliminated my bump steer.

 

[Kirby N.]

Do you mind posting some pics for ref. Thx

Well I got some work done yesterday with help form my brother and a good buddy and all it cost me was some Chinese take out. Most of the front suspension removal and cutting was done so I passed the point of no return. Now I'm just having second thought about going coil sprung vs. leafs thanks to my brother. Any thoughts out there.

Sure man. Here are my coil buckets. Passenger is notched/ welded to fit over the frame bump. Full height f150. Those springs are Progressive WH springs (hated them and traded them out for some BC coils)

And the drivers side (I am using Chevy Tie Rod Ends instead of heims now)

Here are the most recent pics I have of it in Moab on spanking new 37s. 40s are only 1.5" taller

 

[Kirby N.]

Guess there were no springs in my first pics.
Here is the buckets with the WH in them

Here is a shot of the BCs in action.

Hope that helps. You work fast!

 

[flash14]

Nice set up. So I guess the hardest thing is laying everything out in the correct spot. Is that hump you mentioned only on Sports or gen 1s cause I havn't noticed it.

So far it looks like its Stone Crusher extensions, BC coils, 1 ton tre's, 7 degree wedges, and a few more thing I can't think of right now. I'm leaving the shocks for the end so I can measure to get the right size.

Kirby, Whats the benefit of the wristed RA's? (newbie here)

Also did you offset the lower coil mounts?

 

[Kirby N.]

The hump may be a gen 1 only thing. I am not familiar with gen 2s.

A wristed passenger arm alleviates the binding from one side to another during articulation. If you can picture it a Radius arm suspension actually forces the pinion angle in opposite directions when at full droop and full stuff. In full stuff it rolls the axle back (pinion down) in full droop it rolls the axle forward (pinion up). When the axle is articulated (one at droop and one at stuff) there is a binding that takes place between them. One forcing the pinion down one forcing it up. It is part of the inherent design of radius arms suspensions. It is nice, becuase it actually acts like a sway bar in many situations. Lots of rack racers run Radius Arms for this reason. It is nice on the road too. While the binding is "soaked up" by the rubber or poly c bushings, it definately limits travel- or binds to the point of preventing up or down travel. A wristed arm aleviates this binding allowing for un inhibited travel much like a 3 link.

Extended arms also lessen (though they do not eliminate) the binding. I choose the Wristed option because it is nice to pin mine and get the sway bar style action back for the road. But either extended or wristed arms work well and have been proven to do so offroad. Pick the one you like and run with it!

My lower coil mounts are not offset. I have coil bow and it is a non issue. I did however, narrow my axle 6". If I do it again, I will narrow the c wedge mounts on the axle less whatever the donor truck frame width at the buckets is, minus the exploder frame at the buckets and call it good!

I did an extension of sort like the stone crushers on a buddys bronc. 15" I think. Worked good!

 

[meterman1976]

Nice work. I keep thinkin about doin this to mine.

 

[flash14]

Thx for the GREAT 411Kirby , so from what I understood you only need to do one side right.

Well today I pulled out the hp d44 from the backyard to get all the caked on grease/dirt off with the presure cleaner and discovered something that I was hoping I didn't have, "casted wedges". Beside's not being able to remove them to go with leaf springs, are there any other disadvantages of using this axel?

 

[BlkSquad]

Wow, this looks awesome so far and with great explanations. I'm really wanting to do an sas on my 97xlt but I'm not sure yet cuz I can't figure out a roundabout base price I should expect to pay. Plus my X is my dd, so unless it can be done over the course of one weekend I'm outta luck. Keep up the great work bud, and lots of pics and info plz. Can't wait to see the finished product on this

 

[flash14]

I suggest if you have the space is to scout the junk yards for axles and start buying parts here and there till you think you got it all then do it. I can promise you 1 thing, you won't get it done in 1 weekend cause the minute you think you have all the parts you find out you don't. So be prepared to borrow someone ride for a few days. At the end of the project it will be worth it. Now on cost it all depends how crazy you want to get. If you look at some of these trucks here some people have gone low budject like I'm doing and some other have gone extreme with some radical set ups. By the time I'm done I figure I'll spend from 3-3.5k including the new rims and tires which is my biggest expense.

More picks coming soon.

 

[nssj2]

must be the sas time of year. I too am using a HP dana 44, and just started this week. They are great axles, as long as you keep with the RA/coils set up. For leafs..... it can be done, but not eaisily. you have to cut around the casts with a grinder until you crack the weld. then torch it and with a bfh, it should come off. IF you want to run leafs, I suggest checking out jeep waggoneer axles, as they too are a Dana 44, just without wedges. Looking good so far

 

[flash14]

Thanks, I'm going with the coils set up but from what i've read only the early hp d44 have welded wedges and the later one are casted in like my is. I just want to make sure it won't be a problem for me since the majority recomend the 44 with the welded wedges.

 

[nssj2]

Thanks, I going with the coils set up but from what i've read only the early hp d44 have welded wedges and the later one are casted in like my is. I just want to make sure it won't be a problem for me since the majority recomend the 44 with the welded wedges.

The HP Dana 44s were 78-79, which were also the cast wedges. Earlier welded hp 44s are impossible to find. The only problems is that with the cast wedges, you have to put a spacers between the coil bucket and frame, since you can't move the wedges in. Not a big deal, as personally I'm welding on a piece of 6x2 c channel behind the buckets, and extending the bottom lip back out.

 

[flash14]

Thanks, How about redrilling the lower coil base and moving them in. It might be worth about 1.5''s.

 

[crazyflights]

Nice build!
I love the look of a big explorer. But i would recommend you run 38.5/15wide Boggers, which will allready put major stress on the D44, I ran 37-13 wide Boggers on my 97 Ex 4dr and was breaking after market shafts.
Add 3in Body lift for even more clearance.

Here is pic of mine, which had 5.5 Duff coils, with about 1 1/2 in space I made on the bottom to mount. rear was SOA with Ranger 6in lift springs, so they probally netted 4in lift in rear, had 3in BL also, with 37 Boggers, 4.88 gears and 5spd, But also had Atlas Tcase with 4.3-1 Low range, was geared great for crawling and mud, which the 4.0 needs the lower gearing for the bigger tires.

 

[crazyflights]

Few pics to help you.

 

[crazyflights]

Dont look at my welds to much LOL< i wasnt the best welder then , but have since been taking a welding class and cant wait to do some future projects.