2.0 eco rattle | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2.0 eco rattle

I am posting a reply in order to keep this bookmarked and following. I have the death rattle too.
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Turbo done, runs great, 500 miles later...now I have a code 144C. Still runs great, but it is a hard code I can’t reset.

Evaporative system... not sure how to approach it


There are articles on a code P144C; Q: Error code P144C. Fusion 2013 P114c L4-1.6L Turbo Ford
The Check Engine light is on due to error code P144C, Evaporative Emission System Purge Check Valve Performance.
Recommended Services
Evaporative Emission Control Canister Replacement $154 - $624 (Ford Explorer)


Did my Turbocharger runs great now. Wastegate was badly worn but I also believe the bearing was worn would slow down or seize on long trips.
On a side note my axle carrier bearing mount snapped in half the replacement is MUCH beefier and bolts to the engine block in 3 places not two.





Here is the much beefier replacement


Yes, ours was shattered, trans seal was a mess, dog bone ditroyed from fluid leak degrading the rubber, and the crazy issues the wiggling axle created. Could have been bad.

I must have caught mine in time because I had only lost a half a quart of fluid after a long trip. Also, once repaired no leak the seal appeared to be fine.

So I’m an hour into the turbo swap... needed to pull the axle to gain access only to find the shaft support bracket busted.. seal blown. Praying the trans is ok.

Turbo is going to be a ***** to get out...not even sure I can gain enough access with the engine installed... more to follow

6F35 trans takes 9 quarts of LV fluid? That is what the manual calls out... does that sound right?
I though it was EASY. A bit time consuming but easy to access. NOW I took that side shield off that holds the pop off valve in and went down with it and My axle carrier bearing mount was broke too which helped and I did not pull it all the way out just kind of shoved it out of the way. The new one went in complete and I just went and dropped it in from above, hung it on the exhaust studs and added one nut, went back below and started re-assembly I found everything easy to get to just lifted the vehicle up a bit and got at most of it from below (other than removing the cold plumbing you have to pull up from above once disconnected from the cold housing.
I wasn't expecting it to be water cooled and took a bath both in coolant and oil when it made the oil catch pan overflow. DRAIN THE RADIATOR FIRST laws of gravity won't let just the turbo coolant lines drain, EVERYHTHING ABOVE IT including resoirvor, head, most of the engine and most of the radiator will come out the coolant line when disconnected if not first drained.

Hello. So I have a 2013 2.0L. Had a rattle for awhile and also thought probably shield or something. Was mostly on cold starts and would go away after about 30 sec to a minute. Could also hear it while driving and letting off the gas with windows down. Popped a A0299 code after a long highway trip. Long story short the rattling was the waste gate valve on the turbo steadily going bad to the point of it not functioning properly. The valve arm/push rod was moving as it should but the valve/ arm and cover had so much play in it that caused a loud fast rattling and lack of boost. Sorry to burst anyone's bubble but if you have a really annoying rattle on start up and while driving...chances are. Also, fyi new turbo installed..... rattling and underboost gone completely.!
Where did you get your replacement turbo from? I can’t seem to nail down a good part number. JC Whitney has one that looks identical to what (I think) is the right part number but when I put year/make/model on their site it says it doesn’t fit.

I emailed back and forth with Automation Ford of White Bear Lake MN. Paid $630.57 after I got my core deposit back

CB5E-6K682-BA was removed replacement was CB5E-6K682-CA if you are referring to the turbocharger. The axle carrier bearing mount was FB5Z3K305B which is the upgraded mount.

Is yours a 2012? I’ve been looking all night and best I can find is
CB5Z-6K682-D which has been superseded by
Also, did it come with hardware and gaskets? I’m not really new to this forum but I’ve never asked questions (at least not that I can remember).

Sorry been away from forum for a bit. I got mine from Ford dealer.....was 800 after core turn in.

Does anybody know if there is a step by step video on how to change out a turbo online?

It would be a long video

Would not attempt it if you don’t have mechanical skills and some solid experience,

If you do it yourself take the cold air plumbing completely off, the strut brace will need to be removed.

Drain the engine violent, engine oil and the transmission (taking care to measure how much trans fluid you remove). Remove the right axle shaft completely, now you should have clear access to the turbo

Take pictures of the vacuum system for reference later

I replaced all the lines but it they were not a lot of $$$ and they came with all seals. I only used motorcraft part I got from the dealer, piece of mind

The turbo at this point is easy enough to access, from the top and the bottom, needed a couple tools, meter hex sockets

Good luck. Send pictures

New turbo forced a couple sensor replacements within a few hundred miles, not surprising. We have put a few thousand miles on it, switches to running premium fuel and drivability has definitely improved, gas miliGe is better than ever, nearly 2 miles to a gallon average.

Total cost was 1500, we replaced the axles shafts and seals, dog bone was shot, the axles bearing retainer was cracked, Ford had a new design so we got it. And 2 sensors that were stupid expensive... but still thousands less than the dealer

Took me all day, but I’m an old man working alone

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Hi. I just ordered my turbo a couple days ago. Should be here soon. Couple of questions tho. First. Can you replace the turbo without taking the right axle out? If the axle carrier bearing is cracked then I’ll change it, but if not, I’d rather just leave the axle in place and work around it. Is it a matter of making it easier to get the turbo out, or is it simply not possible to remove the turbo without removing the axle. And if I do remove the axle, is there a special tool I need to pop it out of the transmission, or is just a matter of overcoming some kind of internal retainer with brute force? Also, these are dumb questions but a couple things I noticed and had questions about. I’ve never owned a car or worked on a car that didn’t have a radiator cap. Once the engine coolant drains out, where the hell do you fill it back up at? Do you just fill the side resovoir or is there some other place you fill it with coolant? Same for the transmission. Where do you fill that at, if I do end up taking the axle out? Thanks for the advice.