2.9l head bolts--do any conflict with the water jacket? | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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2.9l head bolts--do any conflict with the water jacket?

not turbo

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87 Bronco 2
I've decided to repair the broken lifter in my 2.9 B2...this of course requires removing the heads.

After I'd replaced the heads (originals were cracked) and torqued them down, I saw a little blurb in the Chilton's which says (I paraphrase) "all threads should have a light coat of oil (done!) and any bolts which enter the water jacket should have a lightweight sealant put on to prevent leaks."

Well crud...does anyone know if, on the 87 2.9, any of the head bolts routinely do go into the water jacket? Before I continue with the re-installation?

TIA
 



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rookieshooter

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I don't know if they do or not. But if you can't find out you could take one bolt out at a time using the same torquing sequence and just put sealer on that one bolt and retorque. Then move to next bolt. On my 302 only a few bolts went into water jacket so I used sealer on all bolts anyway just so I could get an even torque on all bolts.
 






not turbo

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Thanks! I also looked at the old head bolts, but didn't see any kind of sealant on them, no "dried crud", not even any indication of coolant exposure at all. (No "ring around the collar") Side by side with the new ones I couldn't tell them apart.

So I guess I'm good with that problem...

Next problem: The Chiltons--or my knowledge--is kind of blurry when it comes to timing. The specs say ignition timing is 10 deg. BTDC; does this mean that I turn the crankshaft until the timing marks (on the harmonic balancer) is at 10 (this mark is btdc), and then install/rotate the distributor so that the rotor is directly under the #1 terminal?
 






rookieshooter

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Thanks! I also looked at the old head bolts, but didn't see any kind of sealant on them, no "dried crud", not even any indication of coolant exposure at all. (No "ring around the collar") Side by side with the new ones I couldn't tell them apart.

So I guess I'm good with that problem...

Next problem: The Chiltons--or my knowledge--is kind of blurry when it comes to timing. The specs say ignition timing is 10 deg. BTDC; does this mean that I turn the crankshaft until the timing marks (on the harmonic balancer) is at 10 (this mark is btdc), and then install/rotate the distributor so that the rotor is directly under the #1 terminal?

You got it. The pointer in pointing 10 deg. before top dead center and the rotor at 1. Make sure you turn engine in direction of running and do not turn crank backwards to get to timing marks. This will put slack in the chain or gear drive.
 






not turbo

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IT RUNS!!!!!

And on the first crank, too!!

:D :D :D

This is a big deal for me, 'cause I have never got an engine to fire up on the very first rotation! Always something....but this time VROOM VROOM!

'Tis a good day for shade-tree mechanics...

Thanks Rookieshooter!!

:salute:
 






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