2 cylinders have no fire | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

2 cylinders have no fire

Old Exploder

New Member
Joined
May 24, 2023
Messages
3
Reaction score
1
City, State
Shawnee, KS
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Explorer XLT
Hi everyone. I'm stumped so I thought I'd throw this out there in hopes that someone can lead me in the right direction. We have a 95 Explorer XLT w/200k. This truck ran flawlessly until it didn't. At times, I had no spark, then no fuel. I did a tune-up with plugs, EGR, fuel pump, battery, crank postion sensor, a used OEM computer and coil pack and got it running, but the coil is only firing on 4, the fuel guage doesn't work and the airbag, as well as the antilock lights are on. #2 and 6 have no fire when I pull the wire off of the coil (no ark). So I replaced the new coil with the old one and got the same result. I suspect that I've lost a ground somewhere, but the one behind the engine looks fine (as far as I can see), the two under the front driver and passenger are still attached and the harness to the fuel pump seems okay. Has anyone experienced something like this?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Hi everyone. I'm stumped so I thought I'd throw this out there in hopes that someone can lead me in the right direction. We have a 95 Explorer XLT w/200k. This truck ran flawlessly until it didn't. At times, I had no spark, then no fuel. I did a tune-up with plugs, EGR, fuel pump, battery, crank postion sensor, a used OEM computer and coil pack and got it running, but the coil is only firing on 4, the fuel guage doesn't work and the airbag, as well as the antilock lights are on. #2 and 6 have no fire when I pull the wire off of the coil (no ark). So I replaced the new coil with the old one and got the same result. I suspect that I've lost a ground somewhere, but the one behind the engine looks fine (as far as I can see), the two under the front driver and passenger are still attached and the harness to the fuel pump seems okay. Has anyone experienced something like this?
Welcome to the forum! Lots of helpful folks here.
 






Interesting
Welcome to ef!!



Fuel pump seems ok? That does not tell us much. What is fuel pressure

You have the firing order correct?

Did you replace ignition wires?

Was battery disconnected while you did the work?

There are only 3 coils not 6
This is a waste spark ignition meaning 2 cylinders fire at a time


Tell us what happened, it was running fine and then it didn’t does not mean we start throwing parts at it… we need to first find out what happened! Otherwise all these parts are just a guess

Slow down, tell us what happened and why you decided to do egr, crank sensor, etc

The 95 ohv has a camshaft position sensor which is used to determine ignition timing.

What I am getting at is are we still chasing the initial issue or have we created new issues with the work that has been done

Fuel pressure test
Check computer for trouble codes
Pull spark plugs and inspect them
I would never do plugs and a coil pack without new wires and we don’t use cheap wires
Oem plugs only no gimmicks like +2 or green plugs or any of that nonsense

Never do fuel pump without new strainer and filter

Check your work

Correct wire routing for ohv is
View attachment 9A66B6CD-16BD-4115-A94D-FDE68E8D9F04.webp
 

Attachments

  • DA1A88C8-4075-4BA6-90DF-8AC839D3F7B3.webp
    13.7 KB · Views: 49






Swap spark plugs around to see if misfire moves to other cylinders. One grounded plug will affect the other on waste spark system.
 






I don't have energy coming out of the coil #2 and #6 AND I have no fuel gauge, airbag and anti-lock on and the tach is reading lower than actual RPM. This all started when I was coming back from the lake (2.5 hrs). The truck sputtered severely, but then recovered and it got me home, but the guage issues started then. So when I got it home, I decided that it was time for a tune up (plugs, coil pack, egr, O2 sensors, etc. Started it after all the work and was satisfied with the idle so I decided to take it out and made it 1/4 mile before it died. That's when the pump and relay went in. VERY strange problem-I've never run into this before.
 






Nevermind you tried a different 95 pcm already didn’t you

We need to start w the basics
Seems electrical interior issue with all the dash issues?

Could be a broken wire somewhere
Bad groind
You checked all fuses
How are the battery terminals and wires?
 






Nevermind you tried a different 95 pcm already didn’t you

We need to start w the basics
Seems electrical interior issue with all the dash issues?

Could be a broken wire somewhere
Bad groind
You checked all fuses
How are the battery terminals and wires?
I'm going to try to isolate my problem with a PowerProbe (it verifies if a circuit is grounded or not). I haven't replaced the cam position sensor. What kind of symptoms shows up when they start to go bad?
 






You would get chirp at the back of the engine can be rather loud squeek
sometimes long crank to start, and on some of these a no start even possible
Usually engine code when they get too bad

The 94-95 use a crappy “sight glass” type cam synchronizer, most of us replace them with the 96 style synchronizer when they go out
 






Back
Top