ExploredOnce
New Member
- Joined
- November 30, 2012
- Messages
- 7
- Reaction score
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- City, State
- Yorktown, VA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2001 Explorer Sport 2dr
I am making this post because going into doing my fuel pump installation, I could not find a thread on how to successfully cut an access panel for the fuel pump in a 2 DOOR explorer.
So, I will try to keep this as short and simple as possible because I know whoever needs this thread as a template is probably tired of searching and just ready to get it done.
First off, check to make sure you are getting power back to the pump by unplugging the main plug, under the truck, in front of the rear axle, on the driver-side and checking to make sure you are getting 12 volts between the pink and black wires when you turn the key over (You need an assistant because this circuit will only go true for about 2 seconds As Soon As the key is turned to ACC - before cranking). If you are not getting the 12 volts, there could be a bad relay or fuse in the line; so check the inertia switch, pump relay and pump fuse (Refer to the other helpful threads on explorerforum.com). If you ARE getting the 12 volts required, your fuel pump is almost certainly shot..
-I found the "Fuel Pump Repair Kit" on ebay for about $35, including shipping (expedited, and I received it within three days); from what I can tell, it is still an Airtex pump (Advance Auto stocks Airtex) **Update: I am having a "stumbling issue at random times now and I am thinking this fuel pump is the problem, unfortunately. So, I would suggest buying one from the auto parts store or somewhere more reputable**
I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport 2 Door 4x4 and I said "Screw it, I really don't feel like dropping the tank!" First off, yes you are somewhat close to the FUEL tank, but you are actually about 2-3 inches above the tank (about an inch from the fuel line in one spot). Soo, you just need a somewhat steady hand and an angle grinder.
1) Grab a 15mm socket and ratchet to take off the three nuts holding the driver side rear seat down.
2) Pull back the carpet to reveal a, seemingly useless, plastic support tray. This tray is held in by two phillips head screws and a 10mm bolt (you can squeeze the tray out without having to take off the passenger side seat).
3) Now you are ready to make measurements and make your cuts. In the picture, the measurements are linear - taken by holding the ruler straight/level (not contoured to the curves of the floorboard). The measurement from the side of the truck was taken from the wheel well cover and the measurement from the back of the truck was taken by slipping the ruler under the seat back until it stopped and then looking straight down at the ruler.
4) Then cover the bottom of the seat with something flame-retardant (I used some stuff called 'cool tape') to prevent a "flare-up". I also used that stupid tray thing with a wet shirt over it to protect the other seat. Then, put on your safety glasses and go to town on those cuts (watch out for sparks).
5) You should see the fuel pump now... I decided to quickly file the sharp edges down some so I could prevent any unexpected trips to the ER. Now, just unplug the two plugs for the pump, pop the clip off of the fuel line and take apart the line with a 3/8" tool (Look at second picture); for my truck, this little simple step sounds wayyyyy easier when reading, my line was all ten kinds of seized-up - I used wd-40, PB Blaster and lots of elbow grease. Then, just zip those bolts out with an 8mm socket and remove your fuel pump assembly.
6) Because I ordered just a Fuel pump, without the rest of the assembly, I had to take apart the old assembly to install the new pump. This only entails pulling the 8mm bolt that straps on the pump, loosening the hose clamps and unplugging the pump. Now, if you got the same kit as me, you will need to cut the two wires running to the pump with enough slack in them so that you may reconnect the new pump using butt connectors (be mindful of which wire is positive and negative - the pump will tell you, but I believe the 'tan' wire is positive and the black is negative), but make sure the wires are protected from each other so that they will not short together. Now, just replace the hose and clamps with the new ones. You may also use the strainer that came with it, even though it looks different; the strainer may rub the bottom of the tank, but you can still fit the assembly in and bolt it down no problem. The little rubber OEM cover will fit on the new pump but you will have to make a little square cut-out for it.
7) Just drop the assembly in and button everything up in reverse order. You will also need to find a piece of metal or something a little bigger than the size of the hole so that you can cover the access hole and screw it down to keep out noise, weather, and debris - I actually just used a piece of a ABS plastic mud flap, six self-tapping screws, and sealant. That is pretty much it! I would recommend changing the fuel filter but I guess it is not completely necessary.
Hope this could help!
After all of the help I have received through these forums, I wanted to pay a little back.
So, I will try to keep this as short and simple as possible because I know whoever needs this thread as a template is probably tired of searching and just ready to get it done.
First off, check to make sure you are getting power back to the pump by unplugging the main plug, under the truck, in front of the rear axle, on the driver-side and checking to make sure you are getting 12 volts between the pink and black wires when you turn the key over (You need an assistant because this circuit will only go true for about 2 seconds As Soon As the key is turned to ACC - before cranking). If you are not getting the 12 volts, there could be a bad relay or fuse in the line; so check the inertia switch, pump relay and pump fuse (Refer to the other helpful threads on explorerforum.com). If you ARE getting the 12 volts required, your fuel pump is almost certainly shot..
-I found the "Fuel Pump Repair Kit" on ebay for about $35, including shipping (expedited, and I received it within three days); from what I can tell, it is still an Airtex pump (Advance Auto stocks Airtex) **Update: I am having a "stumbling issue at random times now and I am thinking this fuel pump is the problem, unfortunately. So, I would suggest buying one from the auto parts store or somewhere more reputable**
I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport 2 Door 4x4 and I said "Screw it, I really don't feel like dropping the tank!" First off, yes you are somewhat close to the FUEL tank, but you are actually about 2-3 inches above the tank (about an inch from the fuel line in one spot). Soo, you just need a somewhat steady hand and an angle grinder.
1) Grab a 15mm socket and ratchet to take off the three nuts holding the driver side rear seat down.
2) Pull back the carpet to reveal a, seemingly useless, plastic support tray. This tray is held in by two phillips head screws and a 10mm bolt (you can squeeze the tray out without having to take off the passenger side seat).
3) Now you are ready to make measurements and make your cuts. In the picture, the measurements are linear - taken by holding the ruler straight/level (not contoured to the curves of the floorboard). The measurement from the side of the truck was taken from the wheel well cover and the measurement from the back of the truck was taken by slipping the ruler under the seat back until it stopped and then looking straight down at the ruler.
4) Then cover the bottom of the seat with something flame-retardant (I used some stuff called 'cool tape') to prevent a "flare-up". I also used that stupid tray thing with a wet shirt over it to protect the other seat. Then, put on your safety glasses and go to town on those cuts (watch out for sparks).
5) You should see the fuel pump now... I decided to quickly file the sharp edges down some so I could prevent any unexpected trips to the ER. Now, just unplug the two plugs for the pump, pop the clip off of the fuel line and take apart the line with a 3/8" tool (Look at second picture); for my truck, this little simple step sounds wayyyyy easier when reading, my line was all ten kinds of seized-up - I used wd-40, PB Blaster and lots of elbow grease. Then, just zip those bolts out with an 8mm socket and remove your fuel pump assembly.
6) Because I ordered just a Fuel pump, without the rest of the assembly, I had to take apart the old assembly to install the new pump. This only entails pulling the 8mm bolt that straps on the pump, loosening the hose clamps and unplugging the pump. Now, if you got the same kit as me, you will need to cut the two wires running to the pump with enough slack in them so that you may reconnect the new pump using butt connectors (be mindful of which wire is positive and negative - the pump will tell you, but I believe the 'tan' wire is positive and the black is negative), but make sure the wires are protected from each other so that they will not short together. Now, just replace the hose and clamps with the new ones. You may also use the strainer that came with it, even though it looks different; the strainer may rub the bottom of the tank, but you can still fit the assembly in and bolt it down no problem. The little rubber OEM cover will fit on the new pump but you will have to make a little square cut-out for it.
7) Just drop the assembly in and button everything up in reverse order. You will also need to find a piece of metal or something a little bigger than the size of the hole so that you can cover the access hole and screw it down to keep out noise, weather, and debris - I actually just used a piece of a ABS plastic mud flap, six self-tapping screws, and sealant. That is pretty much it! I would recommend changing the fuel filter but I guess it is not completely necessary.
Hope this could help!
After all of the help I have received through these forums, I wanted to pay a little back.
