2 DOOR Fuel Pump Access Hole Installation | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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2 DOOR Fuel Pump Access Hole Installation

ExploredOnce

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2001 Explorer Sport 2dr
I am making this post because going into doing my fuel pump installation, I could not find a thread on how to successfully cut an access panel for the fuel pump in a 2 DOOR explorer.

So, I will try to keep this as short and simple as possible because I know whoever needs this thread as a template is probably tired of searching and just ready to get it done.

First off, check to make sure you are getting power back to the pump by unplugging the main plug, under the truck, in front of the rear axle, on the driver-side and checking to make sure you are getting 12 volts between the pink and black wires when you turn the key over (You need an assistant because this circuit will only go true for about 2 seconds As Soon As the key is turned to ACC - before cranking). If you are not getting the 12 volts, there could be a bad relay or fuse in the line; so check the inertia switch, pump relay and pump fuse (Refer to the other helpful threads on explorerforum.com). If you ARE getting the 12 volts required, your fuel pump is almost certainly shot..

-I found the "Fuel Pump Repair Kit" on ebay for about $35, including shipping (expedited, and I received it within three days); from what I can tell, it is still an Airtex pump (Advance Auto stocks Airtex) **Update: I am having a "stumbling issue at random times now and I am thinking this fuel pump is the problem, unfortunately. So, I would suggest buying one from the auto parts store or somewhere more reputable**

I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport 2 Door 4x4 and I said "Screw it, I really don't feel like dropping the tank!" First off, yes you are somewhat close to the FUEL tank, but you are actually about 2-3 inches above the tank (about an inch from the fuel line in one spot). Soo, you just need a somewhat steady hand and an angle grinder.

1) Grab a 15mm socket and ratchet to take off the three nuts holding the driver side rear seat down.

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2) Pull back the carpet to reveal a, seemingly useless, plastic support tray. This tray is held in by two phillips head screws and a 10mm bolt (you can squeeze the tray out without having to take off the passenger side seat).

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3) Now you are ready to make measurements and make your cuts. In the picture, the measurements are linear - taken by holding the ruler straight/level (not contoured to the curves of the floorboard). The measurement from the side of the truck was taken from the wheel well cover and the measurement from the back of the truck was taken by slipping the ruler under the seat back until it stopped and then looking straight down at the ruler.

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4) Then cover the bottom of the seat with something flame-retardant (I used some stuff called 'cool tape') to prevent a "flare-up". I also used that stupid tray thing with a wet shirt over it to protect the other seat. Then, put on your safety glasses and go to town on those cuts (watch out for sparks).

IMG_0166.jpg


5) You should see the fuel pump now... I decided to quickly file the sharp edges down some so I could prevent any unexpected trips to the ER. Now, just unplug the two plugs for the pump, pop the clip off of the fuel line and take apart the line with a 3/8" tool (Look at second picture); for my truck, this little simple step sounds wayyyyy easier when reading, my line was all ten kinds of seized-up - I used wd-40, PB Blaster and lots of elbow grease. Then, just zip those bolts out with an 8mm socket and remove your fuel pump assembly.

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6) Because I ordered just a Fuel pump, without the rest of the assembly, I had to take apart the old assembly to install the new pump. This only entails pulling the 8mm bolt that straps on the pump, loosening the hose clamps and unplugging the pump. Now, if you got the same kit as me, you will need to cut the two wires running to the pump with enough slack in them so that you may reconnect the new pump using butt connectors (be mindful of which wire is positive and negative - the pump will tell you, but I believe the 'tan' wire is positive and the black is negative), but make sure the wires are protected from each other so that they will not short together. Now, just replace the hose and clamps with the new ones. You may also use the strainer that came with it, even though it looks different; the strainer may rub the bottom of the tank, but you can still fit the assembly in and bolt it down no problem. The little rubber OEM cover will fit on the new pump but you will have to make a little square cut-out for it.

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7) Just drop the assembly in and button everything up in reverse order. You will also need to find a piece of metal or something a little bigger than the size of the hole so that you can cover the access hole and screw it down to keep out noise, weather, and debris - I actually just used a piece of a ABS plastic mud flap, six self-tapping screws, and sealant. That is pretty much it! I would recommend changing the fuel filter but I guess it is not completely necessary.

IMG_0175.jpg


Hope this could help!

After all of the help I have received through these forums, I wanted to pay a little back.
 
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colintrax

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I'm sure some people will really appreciate this. But the pics aren't working. You need to upload them to a free hosting site such as photo bucket, and then copy the "image code" and paste into the message.
You can't upload pictures onto the forum straight from your computer unless your an elite member
 
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koda2000

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pics look fine to me. nice job.
 
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ExploredOnce

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I uploaded through photobucket; I could upload using a different image code though, if some can't view them.
 
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Mshowa

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Thanks, this is very helpful and very well done!
 
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Stevester 500e

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1998 ford explorer sport
OEM Fuel Pump assemply or Aftermarket ok?

Just wondering which aftermarket brands are reputable?
The dealer wants over $500 dollars for the fuel pump assembly and that is out of my budget.

I have seen aftermarket ones for between $100-150.
I just want to stay away from a junk brands.

Thanks
 
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boominXplorer

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Denso pumps are about the best you can get at most parts stores. Try to stay away from Airtex, they don't last.
 
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bill06447

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Simpler to drop the tank.

That said, changing the fuel filter is a must-do, as well as changing the "sock" on the pickup. There's a reason most co's won't honor a pump warranty unless you show you also replaced those two items as well.

Bill
 
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bigblockford

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get out the can opener

Would those measurement be the same or relatively close on a 2000 5.0 4 door? Thanks I'll be opening it up tonight or tommorow.
 
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saxet

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Thanks

Thanks, ExploredOnce, for the instructions and pics. I will do this because I am dismantling the (5.0) Exp later. Back seats and carpet are already removed. I need to get the thing pumping to check total performance out before putting the Exp drive train into modified '55 F-100.

I understand (and sincerely respect) the opinion of those who want their floors pristine, but when the pump quit in my '95 Bronco for the second time (the fuel tank was full), I made an access hole in the floor and in the floor of my like-new '90 at the same time. I had a spare Bronco to cut oversized patch panels from. They were painted and cover the holes, looking like 'factory'. Now, if I have a failure on a trip, even, I can replace the pump in 30 minutes max without draining the tank and with a minimum of tools (which would be on the trip with me).

I appreciate all who post on this site. I have learned lots from you. Thanks.
 
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