2 inch RA drop brackets | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2 inch RA drop brackets

acschilling

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Joined
July 8, 2010
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City, State
CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XLT
I'm searching the forum looking to see if anyone makes RA drop brackets for a 1.5 - 2 in lift. I have Rough Country springs that are super stiff. I've drilled out the rivets to change bushings; just curious if there is something that fits in the stock holes to lower the cross member. Thanks!
 



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Should I just get the 4-6 in drop bracket from skyjacker and change the camber bushings or drill lower holes in the frame?

I should have got heep lift springs or spacers with stock springs in hindsight.
 












I think I have a pair of James Duff RA drop brackets from thier 2.5" kit in the garage. I'm running long arms now and not using them.

I'll check this evening.
 






I didn't think they made any. I'm going to get an alignment tomorrow before I get wheeling tires for the summer at the same place that installed my 3.5 degree camber bushings almost two years ago. It's been positive ever since and I don't know how to fix it other than just going taller. Thanks, does that bracket work with the stock arms?
 






Got any pics?

Positive camber is with the top of the tire tipped out, is this what you have? or are they tipped inward?

Going higher will add more positive camber.
 






The tops still stick out. I meant I know that I would just have to do something about the arms if I went higher. I haven't put new tires on the front end in a while. Just used KOs. I wanted actual lift springs but I'm thinking I should get pucks and stock springs from the junkyard.
 






They wouldn't align it because they said wheel bearings were too loose. They grabbed the front right tire on the top and bottom and were able to show me the play. Doesn't left right tire play indicate something as well? Is that bearings or ball joints? Both are less than 2 yrs old. There never seems to be a shortage of drama when trying to align...Bazmeg
 






They wouldn't align it because they said wheel bearings were too loose. They grabbed the front right tire on the top and bottom and were able to show me the play. Doesn't left right tire play indicate something as well? Is that bearings or ball joints? Both are less than 2 yrs old. There never seems to be a shortage of drama when trying to align...Bazmeg

It depends on where the play is..

If you get the same play @ 12&6 o'clock positions as you do @ the 3 and 9 o'clock positions then it is normally bearings..

If it is ball joints you will get the play at 12 & 6

If it is tie rods you get it at 9 & 3.

If you have a 2nd person to help you can then also watch where the play is as having multiple issues can give false positives until you get the feel of things.

If they say it is bearings I'd assume the were watching where the play was and saw no movement in the knuckle when they moved the tire like that.. If so, fixing that is actually pretty easy with minimal tools.

~Mark
 






It depends on where the play is..

If you get the same play @ 12&6 o'clock positions as you do @ the 3 and 9 o'clock positions then it is normally bearings..

If it is ball joints you will get the play at 12 & 6

If it is tie rods you get it at 9 & 3.

If you have a 2nd person to help you can then also watch where the play is as having multiple issues can give false positives until you get the feel of things.

If they say it is bearings I'd assume the were watching where the play was and saw no movement in the knuckle when they moved the tire like that.. If so, fixing that is actually pretty easy with minimal tools.

~Mark

I also assume there was no knuckle play, not sure about 12&6 though. Our 4wd rotors have an inner and outer races yeah? That both can be changed without replacing the rotor? Appreciate it Mark
 






I also assume there was no knuckle play, not sure about 12&6 though. Our 4wd rotors have an inner and outer races yeah? That both can be changed without replacing the rotor? Appreciate it Mark

Correct.. You can change the inner and outer bearings without buying new rotors. You do need to pull the rotor off to get the other bearing out..

You want Timken Set 37's.. 2 sets per side.. That comes with the races.. Just use a punch/hammer to get the old race out of the rotor...

Don't forget your wheel bearing seal (I don't have that # memorized).

If you have auto hubs you will want the hub socket and don't forget to pull the key out of the keyway before you loosen the nut or the nut will be toast.

~Mark
 






I did my brakes last time just need a refresher...on how many bearings I should get..2 inner and 2 outer? Pop the red seal on the rotor..blah blah
 






Buy 2 "timken set 37"'s per side and one wheel bearing seal per side..

Knock out Caliper Slide pins to get brake caliper out of the way..

Take off hub hat, remove C-clip looking thing and splined washer. Take off wheel bearing nut(s).. If auto hub, don't forget to take the key out first..

Pull rotor and remove inner seal and wheel bearing from rotor..

knock out bearing races using punch/hammer

Install new races, pack/install inner bearing and install bearing seal..

Now just reverse the rest of the stuff you took off...

~Mark
 












^^

Yup.
Timken, CR, and National i recall all use that same seal number.
 






Do those circular metal sleeves that come with the conical bearing need to go in both sides of the rotor too? Thank you. Bout to get out there as soon as it warms up.
 






Do those circular metal sleeves that come with the conical bearing need to go in both sides of the rotor too? Thank you. Bout to get out there as soon as it warms up.

Those are the bearing races.. Yes, you want to use the new races with new bearings...

You need to knock out the old ones that are in the rotor. Use a punch and a big hammer and you can knock them out from the center out the other side.

To put the new ones in I use a hammer and a block of wood to get them started and to get them the rest of the way in I put the old race on the new race and hit it with a hammer to get the new race all the way in..


I don't think I've seen a how to on here on replacing the races but there might be a youtube video of it (I can't see youtube from work).

~Mark
 






Those are the bearing races.. Yes, you want to use the new races with new bearings...

You need to knock out the old ones that are in the rotor. Use a punch and a big hammer and you can knock them out from the center out the other side.

To put the new ones in I use a hammer and a block of wood to get them started and to get them the rest of the way in I put the old race on the new race and hit it with a hammer to get the new race all the way in..


I don't think I've seen a how to on here on replacing the races but there might be a youtube video of it (I can't see youtube from work).

~Mark

I have a pretty good idea of what knocking that old race out will take. Will update as soon as its wrapped up.
 






Thanks again for the support. I have manual locking hubs and when I took them off I noticed the spindle nuts were awfully loose. I didn't even have to use the socket to get the spindle nuts off the passenger side. Obviously that's an unalignable issue. The bearings and races from both sides looked okay but since I was there I figured I would change them rather than just tightening in case there really was a problem. I tried giving the races on each rotor a good pound but couldn't get them out. I don't know if that was me or they were made with the races already in there? Since they were smooth I decided to move forward. Put it all back together and cleaned the brakes. Finger tight inner nut after pre-loading right? Then I tightened the hell out of the outer. Good to go - wheels didn't play. Glad it wasn't the ball joints. They are gonna try and squeeze an alignment in for me tomorrow. I think it can really only be toed.
 



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Even when the bearing races come with the rotor (they pretty much always do) they do come out. I use a 2.5 lbs or bigger sledge and a big punch with a big swing to get them out.

Camber and Caster can be adjusted along with Toe.. There is a Cam that goes around the upper balljoint..

Here is what they use to Fix the Camber/Caster. http://www.spcalignment.com/compone...plorer&year=1991 - 1994&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

It adjusts both at the same time depending on the size (degrees) you get and what orientation you install it..

It sounds like you did the bearing right.. other than not replacing the race. I did that for years until someone showed me how to get the race out.. Now it's no big deal for me to pull them.

~Mark
 






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