Ok, before we start, let me tell you that I am in no way a professional lift installer, although I have done a couple installs, this in no way makes me a pro.
If you have never done one of these please look around on the web for install instruction pdf files, there are quite a few, review those very carefully.
Now of course, is where I start to sound like your parents, Do as I say not as I do!
As with anything automotive or dangerous please take precautions, safety glasses, dust mask, steel toe or heavy leather toed boots, and some gloves.
Now since this time around I wasn't able to have any assistance I did this lift by myself, yes it is smaller than the previous one, and the design is different which made it a bit easier to handle by myself, but be it known that I did let certain people know where I was at, and what I was doing and that I would check in at periodic intervals, normally I would have used a web cam so someone could monitor progress and make the dreaded call to 911 if something happened, but that wasn't available this time, so I kept my cell phone on me also.
You will be working with items that are by far much bigger than you, and heavier than you, also you will be working with 220v electricity, that either one of these things will KILL YOU!
Not to mention the damage to someones/your vehicle or property.
Now on with the write-up and pictures.
There are many different types of two post lifts, unlike the other lift I installed at SVOC, this one has the cables that run down low across the floor, which means the lift isn't as strong at the top, the post channels can actually twist under duress, also this means that the posts aren't nearly as tall, I will try and show you pictures of the differences.
This lift was purchased on the internet from a company in Ft Wroth, Texas for the sum of $1200 plus tax, and transport which I did.
The construction for a $1200 China/Taiwan made lift is a bit different than the American made lift, the steel isn't as thick, and the electrical is not prototypical US set up (more on this later), but this kit did come with everything EXCEPT! instructions, see above for instructions.
First thing was to get this lift unloaded, using the 11' gantry and 2 ton hoist:
Now that it's on the floor, note the angle iron straps holding the kit together:
I took the bottom ones off so I could raise both posts at the same time, this didn't work:
I would up having to lower it back to the floor as the gantry and choker strap set-up didn't allow for enough lift to kick the bottom bases to stand the posts completely vertical, so I bolted a "D" ring to the top of the mast and hoisted it up one at a time.
Here is all the rest of the parts that came with the kit stored inside the masts, except for the pump assy which was in a separate box.
Here is both masts, positioned with cable/hydraulic line cover plate mocked up.
Now it was time to drill the holes with a hammer drill and mount the masts to the floor.
Before ANY of this make sure your concrete is thick enough!!!!
After the bases of the masts were bolted to the floor (besure to plumb everything), it was time to add the top plates w/cable pulleys and run all the lift pod cables, and attach them to the lift pods:
Need I say anything about standing at the very top of a ladder??
BTW, if you haven't noticed the dust mask is for the concrete dust, and now on to hooking up the hydraulic lines:
Install the pump and reservoir tank to the mast.
I am not in Austin proper, so there is not really any code restrictions I have to follow, check with your local city and county for code requirements.
Now comes the time for serious respect, hooking up the electrical:
Me personally I started at the lift and worked my way towards the wall where the supply power was coming from, rule of thumb, Keep one hand behind your back!
Anyone notice anything yet???!!!!!!???!!!!
Here's the 220v box where I'm sourcing my power from, Remember the rule of thumb??
This will give you a new hair do REALLY QUICK!
Now as you can tell none of this is labeled, so I had to take the cover off to see which breaker was on that circuit and make sure the breaker was of proper amperage.
I turned the breaker on and off several times and check my meter before proceeding to hook up the power!!!!
After all the power was hooked up it was time to flip the big bad switch and power the circuit up to the lift.
*POW!!!!* the breaker blew, then I remembered something I saw earlier, remember the question I asked you????!!!
In China/Taiwan, their electrical set-up must be more closer to 12v audio wiring, go back and look at that picture, in America on A/C voltage, GREEN is ground, and BLACK is part of the alternating current, the control box is wired wrong, with black being ground and green being part of the alternating current, well I know my breaker works.
After turning the power back off and re-wiring the control panel box, I flipped the big bad breaker again and it didn't trip, so I then proceeded to fill the hydraulic reservoir tank, and run the lift pods/arms up and down several times, to fill the cylinders with fluid, holding the release lever for more than 30 seconds at the bottom of the stoke to let all the air out of the lines, including manually retracting the cylinders at the bottom of their stroke to make sure ALL of the air was out, after doing that I selected an Ex-5.0RESTO catalog car as my victim and proceeded to lift the vehicle up about half way.
Since the lift was bouncing the car side to side it was evident that the cables needed to be adjusted more, lowering the car, I readjusted the cables a little tighter (too tight will lessen the lifting capacity) and re-lifted the car to the mid way point again, after about an hours worth of adjustments the lift was fully functioning and ready for use.
I hope this may help somebody in figuring out weather they want to attempt something like this by them selves or not, most places that sell you a new lift will usually charge you about $200-$300 for an install, if your on a budget like myself then this may be an alternative for you.
PLEASE! take your time, and do you research before you jump into this, check concrete depth/thickness, power supply, and height of your garage/shop, as you will see in my previous lift install I had to actually cut the support beam and re-weld a new piece in to accommodate the lift.
This install took about 10 hours by myself, so don't get in a rush, with more people this can go a little quicker, just remember, DO IT RIGHT, alot of thing ride on the success of the install, cut a corner and it can be a lot of property damage, or even DEATH!!!!!
If your interested in the previous lift install here is the link to the above cable 2 post lift and removal from it's location and re installment into the new location, here's the link:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190117&highlight=lift
I hope you enjoined this!!!
Jeff - :navajo:
If you have never done one of these please look around on the web for install instruction pdf files, there are quite a few, review those very carefully.
Now of course, is where I start to sound like your parents, Do as I say not as I do!
As with anything automotive or dangerous please take precautions, safety glasses, dust mask, steel toe or heavy leather toed boots, and some gloves.
Now since this time around I wasn't able to have any assistance I did this lift by myself, yes it is smaller than the previous one, and the design is different which made it a bit easier to handle by myself, but be it known that I did let certain people know where I was at, and what I was doing and that I would check in at periodic intervals, normally I would have used a web cam so someone could monitor progress and make the dreaded call to 911 if something happened, but that wasn't available this time, so I kept my cell phone on me also.
You will be working with items that are by far much bigger than you, and heavier than you, also you will be working with 220v electricity, that either one of these things will KILL YOU!
Not to mention the damage to someones/your vehicle or property.
Now on with the write-up and pictures.
There are many different types of two post lifts, unlike the other lift I installed at SVOC, this one has the cables that run down low across the floor, which means the lift isn't as strong at the top, the post channels can actually twist under duress, also this means that the posts aren't nearly as tall, I will try and show you pictures of the differences.
This lift was purchased on the internet from a company in Ft Wroth, Texas for the sum of $1200 plus tax, and transport which I did.
The construction for a $1200 China/Taiwan made lift is a bit different than the American made lift, the steel isn't as thick, and the electrical is not prototypical US set up (more on this later), but this kit did come with everything EXCEPT! instructions, see above for instructions.
First thing was to get this lift unloaded, using the 11' gantry and 2 ton hoist:
Now that it's on the floor, note the angle iron straps holding the kit together:
I took the bottom ones off so I could raise both posts at the same time, this didn't work:
I would up having to lower it back to the floor as the gantry and choker strap set-up didn't allow for enough lift to kick the bottom bases to stand the posts completely vertical, so I bolted a "D" ring to the top of the mast and hoisted it up one at a time.
Here is all the rest of the parts that came with the kit stored inside the masts, except for the pump assy which was in a separate box.
Here is both masts, positioned with cable/hydraulic line cover plate mocked up.
Now it was time to drill the holes with a hammer drill and mount the masts to the floor.
Before ANY of this make sure your concrete is thick enough!!!!
After the bases of the masts were bolted to the floor (besure to plumb everything), it was time to add the top plates w/cable pulleys and run all the lift pod cables, and attach them to the lift pods:
Need I say anything about standing at the very top of a ladder??
BTW, if you haven't noticed the dust mask is for the concrete dust, and now on to hooking up the hydraulic lines:
Install the pump and reservoir tank to the mast.
I am not in Austin proper, so there is not really any code restrictions I have to follow, check with your local city and county for code requirements.
Now comes the time for serious respect, hooking up the electrical:
Me personally I started at the lift and worked my way towards the wall where the supply power was coming from, rule of thumb, Keep one hand behind your back!
Anyone notice anything yet???!!!!!!???!!!!
Here's the 220v box where I'm sourcing my power from, Remember the rule of thumb??
This will give you a new hair do REALLY QUICK!
Now as you can tell none of this is labeled, so I had to take the cover off to see which breaker was on that circuit and make sure the breaker was of proper amperage.
I turned the breaker on and off several times and check my meter before proceeding to hook up the power!!!!
After all the power was hooked up it was time to flip the big bad switch and power the circuit up to the lift.
*POW!!!!* the breaker blew, then I remembered something I saw earlier, remember the question I asked you????!!!
In China/Taiwan, their electrical set-up must be more closer to 12v audio wiring, go back and look at that picture, in America on A/C voltage, GREEN is ground, and BLACK is part of the alternating current, the control box is wired wrong, with black being ground and green being part of the alternating current, well I know my breaker works.
After turning the power back off and re-wiring the control panel box, I flipped the big bad breaker again and it didn't trip, so I then proceeded to fill the hydraulic reservoir tank, and run the lift pods/arms up and down several times, to fill the cylinders with fluid, holding the release lever for more than 30 seconds at the bottom of the stoke to let all the air out of the lines, including manually retracting the cylinders at the bottom of their stroke to make sure ALL of the air was out, after doing that I selected an Ex-5.0RESTO catalog car as my victim and proceeded to lift the vehicle up about half way.
Since the lift was bouncing the car side to side it was evident that the cables needed to be adjusted more, lowering the car, I readjusted the cables a little tighter (too tight will lessen the lifting capacity) and re-lifted the car to the mid way point again, after about an hours worth of adjustments the lift was fully functioning and ready for use.
I hope this may help somebody in figuring out weather they want to attempt something like this by them selves or not, most places that sell you a new lift will usually charge you about $200-$300 for an install, if your on a budget like myself then this may be an alternative for you.
PLEASE! take your time, and do you research before you jump into this, check concrete depth/thickness, power supply, and height of your garage/shop, as you will see in my previous lift install I had to actually cut the support beam and re-weld a new piece in to accommodate the lift.
This install took about 10 hours by myself, so don't get in a rush, with more people this can go a little quicker, just remember, DO IT RIGHT, alot of thing ride on the success of the install, cut a corner and it can be a lot of property damage, or even DEATH!!!!!
If your interested in the previous lift install here is the link to the above cable 2 post lift and removal from it's location and re installment into the new location, here's the link:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190117&highlight=lift
I hope you enjoined this!!!
Jeff - :navajo: