2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

After getting an estimate on how much it would run me to fix up my Xploder with all new exhaust, cold side piping, and a bunch of other stuff done up the "right" way... I've decided to convert my Xploder back to NA form so that I can actually ENJOY the truck before I die of old age.

Anyways... To start it off I ordered up a MAC cold air intake (I do not have the stock intake) and sold my FMS headers on ebay.

I plan on buying a set of torque monster headers in the next week or so but am still up in the air on how I should run my exhaust from a performance "speed" perspective. I do not plan on doing much, if any, off road driving, so am looking for a setup that improves take off and speed for spirited pavement driving that sounds good.

I already have the spare tire removed (and will be keeping it off, I have free towing anyways lol)... What would an optimal setup be with the above in mind and no worry of a spare tire being in the way? True duals (straight pipe off of each header, thru separate mufflers, and out the sides), or a dual exhaust both going into a 2 in 2 out "H" pipe style muffler and then out the sides? Or something else? In all cases I won't be running any cats.

I also plan to re-tune my car since currently it is tuned for the turbo setup which obviously will no longer apply once I rip everything out.

Thank you for any input! :)
 



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The headers should have threads in those collector flanges, I'd bet those are bolts. The noise may be from a loose bolt, so check those collector bolts too.

I don't hear much anymore since reconnecting the spark plug boot.. Can you hear much in the 2 new videos?

And yeah I looked at some old pix of the headers and they are threaded thankfully... was worried for a minute LOL.
 



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I didn't hear any ticking, but I was paying more attention to the gauge. I hope it was the plug wire, that's easier to tighten up.
 












I have new stock style motorcraft wires but yeah I do need to get some fiberglass socks to replace the heat shields... They make it much harder to get in there and seat the plugs and are razor sharp lol... The plug boot that came loose was one without a heat shield tho.

Drove 50 miles just now and it's driving real nice... Strong.. Only hear a little tic sound when driving next to a wall or something and the sound echoes back to me. Plan on having everything re-torqued down tight.

I also still need to install my 1" IMF spacer and my LMAF setup once my air filter comes in.
 












I think it's just minor header gasket leak due to copper gaskets needing re-torqued.
 






And for some amusement.. Here is my son "pimping" his new ride cruising for ladies.. Lol.

lil_pimp.jpg
 






Cute, and so fast that the picture is blurred.
 












Got the rest of the pieces to hook up the LMAF... Now I just hope it fits when it comes time to install it (and have my tune re-tweaked for this and the 1" IMF spacer when I install everything at the same time)...

P24829800.jpg
 






Cool, blue.
 






Yeah... puuurttyyyyyyy, lol. Sadly the damn silicone adapter is a dark blue and the silicone adapter connecting the MAC intake pipe and the TB is a light blue :(
 






Psst, make it black.
 






Psst, make it black.

Lol, yeah, I should have! I was thinking it'd be cheaper to get blue to match the MAC silicone adapter at the TB (and thus only need ONE adapter)... Now they mismatch and to prevent having to buy 2 MORE (black) I may just get another dark blue one for the TB :-/ Lol.

I finally got an update on my SVTf as well.. paint is all done, cf hood on, etc, all installed... Only a few more things to be done...

svt-driver.jpg

svt-front.jpg

svt-pass.jpg
 






Nice, I love CF interior parts. Is that clear on the hood? Keep it clean, and waxed well.
 






Nice, I love CF interior parts. Is that clear on the hood? Keep it clean, and waxed well.

Yeah, clear on the hood, it's brand new, the paint is all new as well (just re-painted professionally the stock paint color), had a new bumper and fender put on (a few years back a neighbor over-steered into his parking space and jacked my fender and bumper up, ugh).

Putting on some clear corners as well (to replace the amber ones).

No cf interior parts but I plan on doing something once I get the car back.

This is how bad it looked after I spent about 7 months in Iraq and after a cpl years of neglect and my ex-wife and her bf treating it like **** in an old garage:

DSC02568.JPG

DSC02579.JPG


Full list of modifications thus far (originally was planned for a full built motor and turbo build while I was in Iraq making "bank" but the now ex-wife money splurge and various issues with her (and the dude she was shacking up with) made me have to pull back on all that fun stuff (until later):

Go:

42lb injectors, diablo MAFIa, steeda short throw shifter, 3" exhaust (all) and wrapped header, all 3 poly motor mounts, aluminum throttlebody, massive comp engine bay and hatch stress bars, H&R sport cup kit, steeda 28.6mm rear sway bar, H&R 24mm front sway bar, custom tune by turbotom w/predator, exhaust side cam gear, MSD coil pack and 8.5mm plug wires, centric prem rotors, hawk hp plus brake pads, russel 6pc stainless brake lines, cfm 2pc alum ud pulleys, aem cold air intake w/bypass filter, 180 degree tstat, cfm billet intake mani lever

Interior:

DPIC and AF gauges in pillar pod, ford gt shift knob and stainless e-brake handle, rear seat delete

Exterior:

VIS invader carbon fiber hood, re-painted entire car, smoked side bumper lights, falken tires, ford euro center grill, anthracite colored team dynamics pro race 1 light weight rims (just a hair over 17lbs each), cfm black billet shorty antenna
 


















Car started running like **** yesterday.. Pulled into parking at work and idle was horrific... Didn't think anything of it, went in, worked, got off work and drive home it had loss of power, stuttered, and popping sounds (backfiring)... Limped her home.. and ran codes, got: P0430, P0307, P1000. No abnormal sounds in the engine compartment but.. once she cooled down... ANOTHER FRIGGIN SPARK PLUG WIRE CAME LOOSE!!! WTF. I am going to buy new plugs (need replaced anyways as I'm sure they are fouled up a little from running un-tuned for a while) and NEW PLUG WIRES (and the heat resistant socks).

Talk about a PITA with these wires, and they are motorcraft wires so dunno wtf is up with them lol :-/
 



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On a side note... Want to buy the EGR valve block off plate but want to find the distance between bolts FIRST so I can have it ready when I take everything apart for my IMF spacer install... Anyone know this off hand? :D
 






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