2000 EB ATC Blend Door Actuator part#s

[llTheSystemll]

Hi Everyone,

I thought I had the answer in this thread:

2001 Explorer EB ATC Blend Door Actuator confusion

Ok, sorry to bring this up again, but... It's supposed to get into the mid 80's this week in GA and I've decided that I should go ahead and replace my stripped blend door actuator (auto-temp-control/EATC 2001 Explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0L w/rear air). In redoing my previous research I again find...

www.explorerforum.com

I removed the Blend Door Actuator from my wife's 2000 EB Explorer with EATC and it is labeled:

F87H-19E616-AB
R242 A31991
ATC

Before I did any research, I called my local Ford Dealer to see if they can get a F87H-19E616-AB and they said they could not and did not offer any suggestions other buying a Dorman or an aftermarket replacement which I will do if I have to.

However, the thread above says that this part is the replacement:

F87H-19E694-AB
236 11249122
ATC

If F87H-19E694-AB is indeed correct then I may be able to get one BUT ...

During my research, I found that the Motorcraft YH-1761 is also a replacement. I called the dealer back, got another person in parts and asked about Motorcraft YH-1761. This person said that they cannot that part either but confirmed that the Motorcraft YH-1761 will fit in my wife's Explorer. One thing I forgot to confirm with the parts person at the dealer was if it was EATC or manual. Online says it is EATC. Is this correct?

I did ask the dealer if they had the Ford # that went with the Motorcraft YH-1761 and I got this part #:

F87Z-19E616-AA

He said it fits

1998-2001 Explorer
1998-2002 Ranger
Mountaineer (i did not get the years)

So if I can find any of the following (that work,) will I be ok?

F87H-19E694-AB
F87Z-19E616-AA
Motorcraft YH-1761

What got me started was that the air was always cold and never got warm. I never heard any clicking.

My research also led me to do the following:

Run the Self Test (Off/Floor then Auto within 2s). I did it 4 times. I got 024 then 025 on the 1st test then just 024 on tests 2-4.

Removed the Actuator. I cleaned the pad underneath the gear (semi-circle), cleaned the electrical connections, slightly crimped the ends within the connector.

Pull Fuses 10 and 36 for at least 2 minutes.

After this, I connected the Actuator up to the connector and retested. I got 888. I tested a 2nd time and again 888. I did not think to test it after I initially removed it to see the results. I should have.

I could see the Actuator 'post' moving during these tests. I then put the Actuator back with no screws. 3 self tests passed. I then screwed in the 2 front screws only. This time I could hear clicking and back to 024. I tested again and got 888. I gave up for the day and put my battery on charge. The next I tested again with the Actuator out and got 888 on all 6 tests I did.

So it seems that it works but when installed it is hit or miss. I guess the gears are close to being totally worn out.

So even if I could get a Motorcraft even a manual one for the right price, maybe I can just swap the gears?

Is there a 'start' position that I need to know about? When I initially removed the Actuator, I noted the position of the post so I could re-install it. The post was at one extreme but I noticed that when I did the Self Test with the Actuator not installed but connected to power, the post went to a position about mid-way (75 Degrees F maybe). I had to 're-align' the post by starting the Self Test and when the post got to the position it was in when I first removed it, I turned off the key or I pressed the Defrost button (I forget which ATM). I could then re-install it.

In a perfect world, as long as I can align the post and install the Actuator, does the Self test take care of the rest (whatever that might be)?

I know this is long winded but I did try.

Brian

 

[CDW6212R]

Hi Brian. I have a couple of 2nd gens with the EATC and problems. I think mine were both the blend doors, broken at the pivot point. I have made an attempt to replace one blend door, and swapped the actuator with another used one, and new. I think my actuators were all good, and the blend door was the big issue.

But my attempt to replace the blend door was in cold weather last year, and you have to cut the bottom pivot are out of the AC box. That's what allows the blend door to be fished out, but you have to epoxy the piece back in place properly(fully). I think mine dropped slightly when curing, I tried to support the area but it still settled some. So I think my actuator is not engaging properly with the blend door now. I plan to cut the area out again and more carefully epoxy it back in place.

 

[llTheSystemll]

Hi Brian. I have a couple of 2nd gens with the EATC and problems. I think mine were both the blend doors, broken at the pivot point. I have made an attempt to replace one blend door, and swapped the actuator with another used one, and new. I think my actuators were all good, and the blend door was the big issue.

But my attempt to replace the blend door was in cold weather last year, and you have to cut the bottom pivot are out of the AC box. That's what allows the blend door to be fished out, but you have to epoxy the piece back in place properly(fully). I think mine dropped slightly when curing, I tried to support the area but it still settled some. So I think my actuator is not engaging properly with the blend door now. I plan to cut the area out again and more carefully epoxy it back in place.

That is interesting Don. I seem to recall during my research that other people experienced issues with their door as well. I think in those cases the hinge for lack of a better term was what broke.

You may be onto something since my Actuator seems fine when it is not trying to move the door (e.g. just connected to power but not installed). I will see if I can find the threads that mention the door.

I wonder if I took the gear out that has the shaft and inserted it, could I manually rotate the door to see how it feels. IOTW, does it rotate easily? When the heater is on and I rotate it, does it blow hot air and then cold air if I move it to the other side?

Brian

 

[llTheSystemll]

Don,

I forgot to ask but what do you mean by '2nd gen?' Not OEM but aftermarket?

Brian

 

[llTheSystemll]

I will try the following tomorrow from this thread:

2000 ford explorer blend door actuator

I have to replace the blend door actuator. I got the old one out but now i cant get the post on the new one to line up to get it installed. Any tips?

www.explorerforum.com

"Here's something you can try...
Remove the crescent shaped gear from inside the actuator. Place the gear in the hole in the top of the heater box and see if it engages the blend door. It will only fit one way. You should easily be able to operate the blend door manually and feel/hear if hit the end of its travel in both directions. The total amount of travel stop-to-stop is about 1/4 turn. I operated my blend door like this manually for almost a year, though you do need to wire the gear in one direction or the other, as it will swing back and forth on its own.

I think Don mentioned he did something like this from that same thread:

"If your blend door is broken there is a quick fix that can be performed by cutting a hole in the heater box. Removing the entire dash to replace the blend door is a ridiculous amount of work and usually you end up with new problems because you pinched something in the process of re-installation. If you want I can provide a link to the quick-fix."

If my door seems like it is not moving easily, I may cut a hole and replace the old door.

Brian

 

[llTheSystemll]

@CDW6212R Don,

Do you have any good links or pictures that illustrate exactly how/where to do this?

"you have to cut the bottom pivot are out of the AC box"

Thanks
Brian

 

[CDW6212R]

The blend door replacement is easy to find, it has one small paper with picture showing the area on the bottom of the AC box, to cut. It isn't really clear where is best to cut. Basically you have to cut out a triangle, roughly three sides. The issue is at the hinge area, you have to cut out enough size there for the blend door to drop straight down, and then fit the new one up through and engage the top. So think through the planning process of that hole slowly and carefully.

You can put something in the top hole where the actuator engages, to twist the blend door. That odd shape is where the breaks occurs, so any short object somewhat like a screwdriver will work.

My truck had had some idiot before cut a hole in the front, behind the glove box. They cut three lines in it, making a flap you can pull open. Before I did anything I found that and reached in to feel the blend door. So I have had hands on it and could move it at any time. If I can get the actuator working right, assuming my blend door is a little low(the base sunk down), I will seal the front cut seams back closed. For now it has helped me to identify if the blend door is moving with the actuator etc.

I thought I took a couple of pictures, but I haven't seen them, they may be on my old digital camera.

 

[CDW6212R]

Don,

I forgot to ask but what do you mean by '2nd gen?' Not OEM but aftermarket?

Brian

2nd gen just means the 2nd generation of Explorers, which were 1995-2001 models. The 1998-2001 had the most reported issues of the blend doors, the 95-97's could be the identical dash AC parts, note the pre-98's had blue displays, not green.

 

[llTheSystemll]

Thanks Don. If I will test the door today.

So are you saying that in the middle of the triangle is where the bottom of the Blend Door connects to the AC Box? When the triangle is cut, ideally it and the Blend door should drop right down as long as the triangle area is big enough?

I will know better with what I am dealing with if I go that route but I do have some mastic tape for an HVAC home repair I did. I can see that helping me to reseal the AC Box.

 

[llTheSystemll]

I put an allan wrench in the hole and could move the Blender Door easily. I could hear (and feel) when the door was at the extremes if that makes sense.

I did the Self test again with the Actuator out and the Engine running. It passed 6 times with an 888.

With engine now warm, I turned on the heat and moved the door manually. I could feel heat. I could also feel the resistance the moving air has on the Blend door with the heat/air on. I can understand how this pressure might be just enough to make almost worn out actuator gears skip a cog or 2 here and there.

I noticed the coolant needs to be topped off. This I should have checked FIRST. After I do that, I will put it back together.

I expect the same result so I am now back to one of my original questions:

If I can find any of the following (that work,) will I be ok?

F87H-19E694-AB
F87Z-19E616-AA
Motorcraft YH-1761

I definitely will keep this original actuator since the motor and some of the parts are ok for now.

Brian

 

[CDW6212R]

The hole needed has to be shaped big enough for the door to come through. The blend door is a rectangle in shape, the pivot side/edge is thicker due to the round ends. So the hole would need to be say 3/4" wide and as long as the bottom/top sides are long. But you need a bigger hole to get some access in there with the door to place it where it has to go, your finger space call it. I'm not sure what the smallest hole size would work, but the natural shape of the AC box bottom tends to make a triangle in shape including the line/edge where the blend door will be. You'll have to reach up in there to manipulate the door from wherever it is to start with, to the hole to fit through it.

So most of the hole shape is unimportant. It has to include the door pivot point, about 3/4" diameter, and the length from that to the end of that bottom side of the door. The rest is so you can reach into the opening to R&R the old and new door.

The piece that you cut out below the door pivot point, must be securely replaced as it was located. Tape may work, but over time it won't. Epoxy is the best answer for a long term repair. I suggest doing it when it's warm enough to cure the epoxy fast enough while you secure it in place correctly.

 

[llTheSystemll]

The hole needed has to be shaped big enough for the door to come through. The blend door is a rectangle in shape, the pivot side/edge is thicker due to the round ends. So the hole would need to be say 3/4" wide and as long as the bottom/top sides are long. But you need a bigger hole to get some access in there with the door to place it where it has to go, your finger space call it. I'm not sure what the smallest hole size would work, but the natural shape of the AC box bottom tends to make a triangle in shape including the line/edge where the blend door will be. You'll have to reach up in there to manipulate the door from wherever it is to start with, to the hole to fit through it.

So most of the hole shape is unimportant. It has to include the door pivot point, about 3/4" diameter, and the length from that to the end of that bottom side of the door. The rest is so you can reach into the opening to R&R the old and new door.

The piece that you cut out below the door pivot point, must be securely replaced as it was located. Tape may work, but over time it won't. Epoxy is the best answer for a long term repair. I suggest doing it when it's warm enough to cure the epoxy fast enough while you secure it in place correctly.

Thanks Don,

I should have been clear. I will use Tape in addition to any epoxy but I think the door is fine.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good luck, I hope yours just needs an actuator. I haven't yet had one of mine turn out to be bad, all four still work, three 98's and one 99. Two of mine have the broken blend door, and the one I mentioned I think just needs the door redone a little higher.

 

[llTheSystemll]

I installed a Motorcraft F87H-19E694-AB today. All is well for the most part. I think I may need to get a new thermostat. The air is warm but not like I would expect. But I only let it run for a few minutes. Temp gauge was closer to C. I will have a better handle later this week when we run some errands.

 

[llTheSystemll]

I installed a Motorcraft F87H-19E694-AB today. All is well for the most part. I think I may need to get a new thermostat. The air is warm but not like I would expect. But I only let it run for a few minutes. Temp gauge was closer to C. I will have a better handle later this week when we run some errands

We finally went for a ride and all is fine. My wife was complaining about being hot and it was in the 30s. No new thermostat needed. All topped and rolling.