2000 Ex 5.0, modified engine, stalling when shifted to R or D | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2000 Ex 5.0, modified engine, stalling when shifted to R or D

Bored 30 over cam and exhaust … and your running stock injectors? If you are going to tune you should really consider 24# injectors

With a lopey cam you may have a hard time building enough vacuum for your power brakes
I have FRPP 24# injectors waiting to go in. Truck is drivable as is, even if not ideal. Once injectors are installed I can't drive the truck until get the tune in, so I'm waiting.
 



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Does the pcm Have a signal from the speed sensor? Does the pcm know you are moving and have an accurate speed?
Live data will tell you

Acording to FORScan, yes. Had it connected on the drive home and glancing at it during the drip. Speed is showing and approximately matching the speedometer, and the speedometer approximately matches thaose radar signs.

The idle air control valve has a plunger that will get sticky when dirty. Cleaning the oem IAC well is best option. Follow my above post for that.

Got it. I'll probably give the "new" one a try again since I've fixed other items since thinking it was bad. If I get a chance I'll clean the "old" one this weekend and give it another try as well.

There is a procedure to properly set the idle om these. This works, though you may need to add a few hundred RPM, as needed, to keep it running.

1.) Get your engine to running temperature.

2.) Un-plug IAC while the engine is running, if it stalls turn idle screw 1 entire rotation, re-start staab throttle, continue this until it idles without the IAC plugged in.

3.) Set the idle to desired level (750-MILD 900-BIG CAM) by adjusting the idle screw, always tap the throttle so it lands in its natural location.

4.) Set TPS between .96 AND .98 Volts with a multi-meter. Loosen the screws and move it around while the meter is attached. Drill out holes more if you can not reach proper adjustment. Use the 2 volt (DC) setting on your multi-meter to get most accurate idle reading. (Do this while the car is still running.)

5.) Stop engine, disconnect negative battery cable wait 20 minutes to reset computer. Turn on headlights and tap the brakes a few times to drain the remaining power. I leave the headlights in the on position the whole time to make sure all power is drained to make sure the computer resets.

6.) Re-Connect the IAC

7.) Re-Connect the negative battery cable.

8.) Start engine, and smile the pain should be over! Unless of course you have a bad TPS, IAC, or EGR. LOL.

10-4 ...however...

I'm not going to attempt this until after getting the tune adjusted for the changes. I don't want to make problems worse by trying to ajust for current tune, when the throttle blade setting isn't the problem in the first place.

I do question the TPS portion of this procedure though. My understanding is that the TPS adjustment is good for older 5.0Ls where the TPS is actually slotted for adjustment, but not for later models like the 94-95 Mustang and the Explorers. On these later ones the computer is supposed to zero the TPS.

With a lopey cam you may have a hard time building enough vacuum for your power brakes

Brakes are working fine I don't think my cam is so big as to cause lack vacuum for brakes, but we'll see how it responds to a tune. If necessary I'm not afraid of installing a vacuum pump or adapting hydroboost brakes.


Tuners have suggested that I forgo the larger MAF and throttlebody. They don;t believe it to be needed on this combo without forced induction and I'm inclined to believe them. For starters, they have way more experience than me. Also the explorer parts were common upgrades for getting power out of Mustangs. I'm not going that extreme on power levels.

Given that, I'm going to run another smoke test this weekend if I get the chance. Barring any unforseen issues I'll be ordering my tune next payday. Once I have it in hand I'll swap out injectors, fix the couple of vac leaks under the intake, and install the Taylor plug wires.
 






Sounds *****in!!

Do you have any trouble codes?

The Tod you just want to make sure they don’t have a dead spot when you do the sweep test. Like you on… I have never adjusted one on a obd2 truck that’s just for the earlier computers and old snowmobiles ;)

We would love some pics!
 






Do you have any trouble codes?

A whole slew of them.

Engine, ABS, and GEM.

TPS, DTRS, and random misfire on the engine.

TPS was my mistake before I dropped it at exhaust shop. I disconnected the TPS while getting a tool onto EGR pipe and forgot to reconnect it. Connector partially melted on the header, not to the extent that it affects the connection, but I have a new one to swap on. Haven't reset the computer since fixing it.

Something made me think that the DTRS code was also related to the TPS deal. I'm probably going to see about installing a sew one anyway. Noticed this morning that they were delayed coming on, and I don't think it's the first time it happened. Does the trigger for the backup lights come from the DTRS by chance, or is it a different switch somewhere? Don't have my diagrams handy.

Pretty sure that the random misfire is result of the tune being off. It could be plug wires, but as mentioned I've got a set of Taylor's to install. Also debating on throwing on a new set of coil packs because 180k miles on both my donors.

ABS is showing as a front wheel speed sensor.

GEM is upset that the 4wd isn't there and working like it's supposed to.
 






Dtrs is the neutral safety switch and reverse lights switch yes

The dtrs also changed from 95-97 and 98-01
The earlier ones are analog signal and the later is digital, the pcm will freak if you don’t have the correct one

Misfire code that happens quickly is usually an injector issue. It is harder for the computer to detect a misfire in the ignition and pinpoint a cylinder so misfire codes as a result of bad ignition usually take more drive cycles to show up, whereas an injector misfire code will pop up very quickly like one or two drive cycles

I would clear codes see what remains

Hopefully you didn’t send a short to the pcm when the tps connector melted
 












Dtrs is the neutral safety switch and reverse lights switch yes

The dtrs also changed from 95-97 and 98-01
The earlier ones are analog signal and the later is digital, the pcm will freak if you don’t have the correct one

Misfire code that happens quickly is usually an injector issue. It is harder for the computer to detect a misfire in the ignition and pinpoint a cylinder so misfire codes as a result of bad ignition usually take more drive cycles to show up, whereas an injector misfire code will pop up very quickly like one or two drive cycles

I would clear codes see what remains

Hopefully you didn’t send a short to the pcm when the tps connector melted
Didn't get into the conductors, just melted part of the shell. Perfectly usable as is, just don't like the look of it. I'll try to snap a picture of it later.

It's a P0300 random misfire code. Can't say how quickly it appears, haven't watched that closely. Still leaning towards tune being the root cause. That, injectors, and plug wires will all be replaced at the same time.

I know that the DTRS installed is from the '00 Explorer donor that everything else came from. I did not touch it during the swap. Could very well be at 180k and worn out like everything else was.
 






Check firing order
Check that cam synchro was installed on correct cam gear tooth with cyl 1 at tdc compression

The dtrs don’t really wear out, I have seen one bad one in 30+ years
Check the wiring to dtrs and that it is adjusted to the column shifter at the correct detent (adjust dtrs screws with shifter and trans in n)
 












We would love some pics!
I'm not much of a picture taker, but here's a couple pertinant to the thread.

First we've got the melted TPS connector, as you can see it didn;t get into the conductors, but it wouldn't have taken much more to get there. I picked up a new pigtail to swap out the connector housing. Just got to get it done.

IMG_20250207_115258869.jpg


Next up we have the subject of this whole thread, the truck as it sits today.

IMG_20250207_115406090_HDR.jpg


Damn, that camber looks bad normally. It looks horrible with the wheels turned. Had it sitting beside a stock (I think) coil spring truck yesterday and fenders and bed were at same height, but I'm running taller tires. I guess I've technically met my original ride height goal which was "stock 2wd with oversized tires". I can't keep it at this height for long with that camber, and really want to go lower. Camber adjsuters aren't enough, need longer control arms, but no one is making them for a lowered torsion bar. You can get for a lifted torsion bar, but the joint angle is wrong. If I haven't gotten what I need by the time these tires wear out, I'm going to have to go back up with it, but I've got some time. Lets just say that if lowering doesn't work out, I'll probably be taking a deep dive back into your build of Eddie's trucks for mods made, parts used, and issues encountered on the suspension.


Anyway... Back to subjects of the thread.

Engine related codes present were:

P0122 - Throttle Position Circuit low
P0300 - Random missfire detected
P1702 - DTRS code

I was using the tuner's built in code reader when I grabbed these and it didn't have details about the P1702 code but Forscan was showing it as DTRS, and google is suggesting that it is related to a bad signal from same.

I reset the computer when I left work yesterday, but it was raining so I didn't spend a lot of time with it. That's why you're just getting the pictures above today. I've put approximately 100 miles on it since and nothing has triggered the CEL again. If I drive it to work tomorrow, I'll hook up Forscan when I get home and see if there are any soft codes stored.

I did get new coil packs ordered today, for reasons I opted for a set of Screamin' Demon coil packs. They'll be combined with the Taylow wires I've already recieved. I'm going to try to scrounge a set of the stock metal boots to put on the Taylors like you have done in the past, I'll take all the heat shielding on them that I can reasonably get. As it stands I'm on track to order my custom tunes next week.

Sent Lasota (the tuner) my vehicle information yesterday, they replied that they were closed until Monday. That's fine, I really wanted to wait until closer to payday anyway. Once I have that in hand I'll proceed with installing the remaining parts.
 






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