2000 explorer 5.0 anything i should know

[ZigZag88]

i just traded for a 2000 explorer xlt 5.0 awd. Is there any issues i need to know about these?
i had a 97 explorer e.b. 4.0sohc transmission went bad. i know they use a different trans the 4.0 i had used the 5r55e. i know the 5.0 uses a 4r70w. i just looking for opinons. i traded a 97 ford f150 4.2 5sp 4x4 for it. may look in to doing some mods later but for now just drive it.

 

[shucker1]

The only thing I have ever heard on the bad side it that the AWD viscous clutch may go out.

Other than that enjoy and welcome to the forum!

 

[JAMMANICA]

How many miles? I need another donor for a Ranger and TN vehicles are usually in better shape than OH vehicles...

Enjoy your new ride. As with any vehicle that age you are a victim of how the previous owner(s) drove and maintained it. I've seen 5.0 explorers with 230,000 miles that ran and drove just fine and several with around 160,000 just falling apart.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, and welcome to the forum.

First check the tires carefully, figure out the exact condition of them(how close in diameter are they)? If you decide the tires are all identical, then you are lucky and can expect great reliability for a long time. Replace all fluids, including the AWD fluid, which is not Mercon V. That should take the previous Mercon/Dexron III, or if you like the very expensive replacement late model stuff. It's about $25 a quart from Ford, and aftermarket brands are close to the same. I've always used the original suggested fluid, and I had some still the last time I checked.

But all parts stores still carry Dexron III, and they still mention meeting the Mercon standard. That's what the older AWD's take, the newer 5th gen Explorers I don't know if they changed the AWD in some way, that one I wouldn't try the old fluid in unless someone else assured me it would work.

What kills the AWD 995 of the time is mismatched tires, or the fluid not being changed properly.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I've got a 2000 that seen less than a good life IMO, and it just keeps on and it recently passed 275K, I have another one I'm building I'm so happy with my 2000. The AWD is a weaker point though, if your tires don't match, fix that, you want matched tires. The AWD died on mine, which in turn ate a front diff in short order. Otherwise you've got a SOLID vehicle, I wouldn't dare sell mine.

 

[imp]

I've got a 2000 that seen less than a good life IMO, and it just keeps on and it recently passed 275K, I have another one I'm building I'm so happy with my 2000. The AWD is a weaker point though, if your tires don't match, fix that, you want matched tires. The AWD died on mine, which in turn ate a front diff in short order. Otherwise you've got a SOLID vehicle, I wouldn't dare sell mine.

@RandomNerd2000
Please explain how/why a defective AWD (assume bad viscous clutch) would cause differential failure. If the clutch locked-up, and "fed" full power to front all the time, along with the rear getting full power, wouldn't tires suffer, as well as axles (CVs), but why the diff? The spider gears simply "relieve" speed differences between the two axles of each diff, and have nothing to do with the "torque-split" between front and rear, no?

Or am I dense? imp

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I'm actually not sure, I've been somewhat of the opinion that the diff isn't stripped out (turn input round and round with wheels on dirt) from nothing, that the AWD locking up about had to have been the cause, since it was full of fluid and everything.

 

[410Fortune]

congrats! the 5.0L AWD Explorer is one wicked good ranger based vehicle, some would say it was the best Ford built!!
These trucks have a following, now you own one and will soon see it is the best choice, the 4r70w is a half ton transmission the 5r55e was originally derived from the C3 automatic that came in the Pinto. I am a big fan of the 5.0 and 4r70w

 

[MrQ]

congrats! the 5.0L AWD Explorer is one wicked good ranger based vehicle, some would say it was the best Ford built!!
These trucks have a following, now you own one and will soon see it is the best choice, the 4r70w is a half ton transmission the 5r55e was originally derived from the C3 automatic that came in the Pinto. I am a big fan of the 5.0 and 4r70w

Yup the 5.0 and 4r70w are Tonka tough. AWD not so much. 4406 transfer case out of an F150 is the best swap if you want true 4WD.

To note though that the 5R55W (last iteration of the C3>A4LD>4R55E/4R44E>5R55E/S/R transmission lineage) did wind up behind a few V8's including the 4.6 in the 3rd gens. The 5R55E is actually the first 5 speed transmission ever offered in an SUV in the US (which is pretty much an A4LD with more sensors/solenoids, beefier internals, and an over driven 1st gear).

 

[koda2000]

I had a 2000 AWD 5.0L Mountaineer that had not seen a very gentle life. I've also had/have a number on Gen II 5.0L 2WD Explorers/Mountaineers. They're great vehicles and about as near bullet-proof as a vehicle can be. Replacement parts are inexpensive, readily available and the vehicles are relatively easy to work on.

Other than a few seals and needing to rebuild the front driveshaft CV joint I never had any problems with the AWD. Biggest thing is to keep the same brand of tires with the same wear and pressure on all 4 corners to protect the viscous coupling.

I could make a list of common repairs, but other than 5.0L water pump replacement (if the bolts have rusted) the list consists of minor things and some common electrical issues.

 

[CDW6212R]

@RandomNerd2000
Please explain how/why a defective AWD (assume bad viscous clutch) would cause differential failure. If the clutch locked-up, and "fed" full power to front all the time, along with the rear getting full power, wouldn't tires suffer, as well as axles (CVs), but why the diff? The spider gears simply "relieve" speed differences between the two axles of each diff, and have nothing to do with the "torque-split" between front and rear, no?

Or am I dense? imp

I thought I was special to have a front diff, killed by a bad AWD. My 98 truck was abused before I got it, and had no front drive shaft. After 50k miles and three fluid changes, it developed a binding in the front. I guessed one CV shaft first, the boot was barely torn. Then I replaced the control arms and two hubs as I had planned. Then the binding was very bad going to the alignment shop.

I figured the front diff was toast, and I swapped it that day(used one from my Mercury). That helped but the binding was still there. I pulled the front shaft the next day and it's driven fine since then. The AWD finally locked up, and it destroyed the front diff. My CV axles are fine, but the bearings of the differential are ruined. The pinion shaft moves a bunch sideways. I haven't taken it all apart yet, but I'm about to learn how to rebuild one. So the D35 front diff, is one of the weakest links up front.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Mine, I checked it in depth since we're on the subject. The input shaft spins freely, has a LOTTA motion in it side to side, and if you back up fast, there's a odd howling kind of noise from the front I'd presume is from up there too. I believe the front differential to be the cause of the wicked howl I had early this year that acted tire dependent. I would convert it to a 2WD set of spindles and drop the differential and forget it, except my parts truck is AWD, the same ratio, and part of me wants to swap the trans into this truck and front diff and make it AWD again, just to then 4WD swap it.

 

[masospaghetti]

I had a 96 5.0 AWD Explorer and it's a great drivetrain. The only pain points to me were the limited access to certain parts (since IIRC the chassis wasn't really sized to fit a 5.0), the passenger side exhaust downpipe bolts were a real pain, the exhaust manifolds were tough to remove, the a/c condenser and radiator are packed in there, oil pan is captive by the front diff, water pump/timing cover is tough due to access and bolt breakage. But mechanically I don't think you can beat the overall reliability.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

As someone who's dabbled in other vehicles recently for friends and such, I have to say despite the bolt access on the 5.0 being snug in a lotta places, the dependability outweighs the costs IMO. I've driven almost 20K miles out a truck that was ragged out to the point I gave $200 for it, and it's exceeded my expectations. Life hasn't been good to mine, but I'd swear to it to the point I'm building my Eddie Bauer and potentially buying another V8 Eddie Bauer to go with that one.

 

[CDW6212R]

The AWD TC costs a good $450 for parts to rebuild it. I have those now to do my first one, then I'll R&R the one in my Limited, to make it AWD again. I think I'm set on making my 99 V8?AWD, so I'll need another AWD TC as a spare. I should hunt that now I think.

I've got 209k miles on my 98 Limited now, so 61k miles in a couple of years is typical great reliability to me. I had to work on the things the PO neglected, the bad tires and AWD, dry front diff from all three seals leaking, bad hub, worn BJ's and TRE's. I did the cooling system when the leaking radiator finally let go in May. I've got water temps now in the 140's when it's cool outside, it heats just enough that I think it'll still work for Winter. The thermostat is evidently operating at closer to a 150-160* rating, even though it's a 180* unit. I like it running very cool, as long as the PCM stays in closed loop(it does), and the heat is enough when the window is down and it's 30-50 outside. I'll see soon.

 

[crunchie_frog]

I have had 4 of these, one for each member of my family and that should make it obvious I think a lot of them. Low initial cost, relative cheap/easy repairs/parts, versatile, reliable, vehicles. Below is a quick list of things I checked or did to all of them when I first got them (all at 100K to 200K miles)

Ball joints, sway bar links, shocks, brakes, tires have even tread wear, rear differential pinion seal, front differential axle seals, replaced all fluids (trans, power steering, transfer case, differentials, coolant, engine oil, brake), check AC for leaks/performance, parking brakes, spark plugs, cleaned MAF, fuel filter, air filter, PCV, check for coolant leaks (timing cover common), serpentine belt...

Usually had a few hundred dollars in parts for each to get them all back to condition I wanted them.

I am also in Johnson City, if you ever run into an issue, give me a shout, I have probably done just about everything you can do (stock) on these things and may could give you some help.

 

[410Fortune]

I have owned about 20 of these things at one time or another, and maintained countless more
My ONLY gripes:
1. The AWD being a power and mpg sucker (big fan of 4x4 conversion here LOL) AWD weaar and tear on front end parts and tires
2. The lower intake manifold bolts going into the water jacket and similar condition on the timing cover and waterpump bolts going into the water jacket.
These bolts more often then not will break and when they do its a real PITA!!!
Now with that said I have never met one I could not put back together. The timing covers are now avail from Mexico reman for about $75 so if you ***** one up prying it off the broken stud you can easily replace it.
3. The waterpump small bypass hose is a PITA, should be replaced if it is old/original otherwise it will split at the worst time (AC on when its 100 degrees outside)
4. The AC condenser is connected to the radiator with 3 big plastic clips, no big deal if you have removed 200 of them and are used to it, but a pita none the less to remove the radiator and leave the ac connected. There is plenty of room to work on the waterpump and timing cover once the cooling system is removed.

I do not have a hard time accessing the exhaust manifolds, the down pipe bolts on the pass side can be gotten with the correct 1/2" drive extensions and wobbly.

Otherwise bomb proof trucks and my favorite of all the RBV!! Ford did us all a HUGE favor when they packaged the gt40 302 to fit the Gen II chassis and mated it to the 1/2 ton auto trans... best thing to happen to the ranger based truck ever IMO

 

[imp]

I thought I was special to have a front diff, killed by a bad AWD. My 98 truck was abused before I got it, and had no front drive shaft. After 50k miles and three fluid changes, it developed a binding in the front. I guessed one CV shaft first, the boot was barely torn. Then I replaced the control arms and two hubs as I had planned. Then the binding was very bad going to the alignment shop.

I figured the front diff was toast, and I swapped it that day(used one from my Mercury). That helped but the binding was still there. I pulled the front shaft the next day and it's driven fine since then. The AWD finally locked up, and it destroyed the front diff. My CV axles are fine, but the bearings of the differential are ruined. The pinion shaft moves a bunch sideways. I haven't taken it all apart yet, but I'm about to learn how to rebuild one. So the D35 front diff, is one of the weakest links up front.

@CDW6212R " I pulled the front shaft the next day and it's driven fine since then.

The front driveshaft, then? Pinion shaft moves "a bunch sideways" is ominous. Pinion bearings totally shot, OR the damned nut loosened up.......have you checked it? imp

 

[CDW6212R]

@CDW6212R " I pulled the front shaft the next day and it's driven fine since then.

The front driveshaft, then? Pinion shaft moves "a bunch sideways" is ominous. Pinion bearings totally shot, OR the damned nut loosened up.......have you checked it? imp

In case that was about mine imp, yes, I pulled the drive shaft. That was the day after I swapped a used front differential into it(used one from my Mercury), and the binding was still there. I have the bad diff, on my garage floor. The gears are ugly to see when you take a close look. I'll post pictures in a thread when I rebuild the other one(I had one spare).

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I haven't even checked mine to see what happened, for a second I thought that was a reply to me though. It's just hanging out under there, since I have so many 4WD/AWD front suspension components and like the hubs for the ease of bearing changes, plus rather new brakes I'd rather not do over again with 2WD spindles.