2000 explorer AWD ball joint issues | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

2000 explorer AWD ball joint issues


New Member
September 9, 2016
Reaction score
Richland wa
City, State
Richland wa
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer AWD
I'm looking for advice and wondering if my control arm is shot, got a bad ball joint, or if I'm doing something wrong? I pressed the old oem ball joint out on the drivers side lower control arm ( after a good fight ) and the new joint fit like it needed to be pressed in so I started pressing it in and I heard a pop and now the ball joint just slides in and out of the control arm same with the old ball joint. I've never messed with torsion bar suspension and I'm really hoping I don't have to take the control arm off. Any insight would be much appreciated

Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!

Last edited:

A lot of OEM control arms have BJ's that information points to the chance of a new BJ not fitting properly. Look at new BJ's, often there are notes saying the BJ may not fit correctly or that there is a different version that is a little larger etc.

I don't know how it is that some control arms will perfectly accept one BJ, but not another.

If your BJ isn't fitting properly, it may be best to try another BJ on it, check the whole size etc. It isn't hard to remove the torsion bar, if it isn't seized into the LCA. Northern climates have that issue a lot. You just crank the adjustment bolt all the way out, after recording where it started at(that's the camber alignment you are changing). With the upper BJ disconnected, the torsion bar should be free enough to get the small adjustment bolt block out, and unbolt the LCA etc.

The ball joints I got were just cheap ones off 1aauto.com not oversized. I guess that's what I get for being a cheapskate. I don't have a caliper to measure the hole so I'll just have to buy those and see if they work. I'm pretty good with a set of wrenches but I've never messed with torsion bars and my tool collection is very limited I've heard they are a nightmare to take loose. The explorer Looks really nice (no rust always garaged and clean) but everything I've replaced so far has been a crazy fight and this is my 3rd explorer and I've had a few Rangers but I've always done my own maintenance and repairs and never fought like this. I really need this truck back on the road it's our only vehicle and it's been down 3 days now.

I just described how to remove the torsion bar, it's not at all a nightmare. You could have the LCA out of the car in under 30 minutes by going slow and following the basic steps.

there is a $50 tool on amazon that makes the torsion bar removal childs play. You are better off replacing the LCA at this point. If your truck has rust there may be bit of work to pound it out of the LCA. One side i used some regular propane and penetrating oil the other no heat, just a long pipe to pound it. If its not rust it just drops out. You could also remove the LCA with the bar and work on it.

If i was able to do it with all the corrosion here I'm sure it could be done anywhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

My truck has always been garaged since new and I've only wheeled it a couple times and I always wash and detail it afterwards. I'm waiting on the oversized ball joints to come in before I mess with the LCA and torsion bar. I'm sure I'll read all the posts on torsion bars before I try to tackle it but if I need any help I now know where to ask. This website has been awesome for all my projects thanks for all the help guys

Passenger side went together like cake. 3hrs but just because it was hot today... Still waiting on the moog oversized ball joint for the drivers side but it should be here Tuesday

Moog oversized ball joint worked awesome and did a TT thanks to all the info on here. Now just waiting for shackles and shocks for the rear. Thanks again guys wish I could post pics I took a ton

^ That's great! Moog is probably the aftermarket suspension parts choice of at least half the people here. Seems they haven't updated the .006 oversize ball joint yet. Just be careful not to overfill when greasing the old style boots. There's a grease relief valve that faces inboard towards the engine away from the rotors when properly oriented. Fill until you see clean grease purging out of the relief valves, no more. Happy Exploring!

Moog k8695t lower ball joint redesign | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations