2000 Explorer XLT 5.0 Crank no start. PCM? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2000 Explorer XLT 5.0 Crank no start. PCM?


4x4 manual trans
September 19, 2016
Reaction score
NE Indiana
City, State
Garrett, Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer Sport
I bought a 2000 (8/2000 build) Explorer XLT 5.0 as a donor vehicle for the 5.0 engine. I'd like to get the engine running before I pull it to make sure its OK. 92K miles. Before I got it it had been sitting for a 3 years and the lights and speakers had been removed. I don't see any wiring harness damage. All of the fuses and relays had been removed. I replaced all of the fuses and relays and put a good battery in it. When I turn the key and crank it, it builds oil pressure and cranks good but won't start. I do not hear the fuel pump pressurizing. I have noticed the THEFT light flashing rapidly after cranking. Flashing codes appear to be 16. I think that means the PATS system is not talking to the PCM. I bought the code scanner OBDlink MX and it says it can not connect to the PCM. I used it in another known good vehicle and it connects as it should. I have checked the fuses and relays and believe they are good.I think I need to confirm that the PCM is good. How can I accomplish this? Thanks, Michael

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Hi Michael. It sounds like something else is missing from the circuits for it to start. Watch the "THEFT" light, while you turn the key on and to start. The light should stop flashing after the ignition is on for a moment or two. If it still flashes, then the PCM is disabling the engine from starting. It checks the key chip on each startup, and compares it with the PATS module memory, where those learned codes are stored.

Check the area below the ignition key cylinder carefully. The PATS code receiver is attached barely to the underside of that cylinder, note the light blue plastic connector piece. That is very fragile, and if it gets loose from the cylinder, it won't receive the key code. If the sensor itself is unhurt, that can easily be reattached, even taped on or RTV'd in place.

After those easy checks, then work on the fuel pressure. If the truck had been wrecked at all, reach the inertia switch and be sure it's not tripped off. That's in the right floor board on the firewall, just below the AC box. You can easily reach up and stick a finger in the top, push down inside it. It's a little "valley" that a "ball" seats down into the center bottom of. An impact will dislodge that and it comes out and away from the seat, thus cutting power to the pump.

If you can get the pump to make noise, then check the pressure at the fuel rail. If not, then you have to figure out why the pump doesn't run.

Yes to the Dragon, and then went south to the Cherohala Skyway. 441 through Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge into Cherokee is great too.