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2000 ford explorer sport suspension and tires

svtcobra88

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2000 ford explorer sport
Ive done some searching and reading and I still have a couple questions about torsion keys and add a leafs or shackles. I have a 2000 ford explorer sport 4.0L V6 4x4, I want to fit either 31's or 32's, I'm not sure if I should buy a torsion key or just adjust the torsion screw, I also don't know if I should buy an add a leaf or use shackles instead. I would like to get the most lift I can from just torsion adjustment and shackles or an extra leaf. I don't want to do a body lift or actual suspension lift. Do you really need a torsion pressure release tool for replacing the torsion keys? Do you happen to know if autozone or similar rent out these tools or should I just buy one?
 



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31"s will fit fine with no modification
 






There are tons of threads on here that cover the torsion adjustment subject. When I did mine, I think I just leveled out my Explorer in the rear (left & right). This was because the left side rear leaf says more than the right...because of driver weight and fuel tank. I think mine took a 3/4" and a 1/2" piece of plywood between the concrete and left rear tire. That made the distance from the concrete to the center of the top of the wheel opening equal. That is; equal left and right at the rear...the front had a different measurement than the rear, but the front left and right were equal to each other as well.

I then chocked the rear wheels and raised the front end with a jack. I placed the jack in the center of the cross member and lifted until the tires were about an inch and a half off the concrete, when let down onto jack stands. The stands must be placed either at the cross member or the frame...not on the control arms. Then you can adjust the torsion keys (I do seem to remember using a 2 jaw puller to compress the key a bit before I tightened the adjusting screw). Try to adjust them the same, but sometimes it requires a little extra to level the sides. You will only know by letting the Explorer down to measure from concrete to the same spot on the wheel opening as before.

For the rear, I used warrior shackles and never will again. If you can make them yourself or have a local fab shop do it, that's best. The coating that warrior uses is garbage and their pre-coat prep is too. The finish will come off quickly and rust out the shackles pretty fast. I would go with shackles and either add a leafs or shackles and Monroe spring over shocks. I have all three now because I kept pulling out the Pro Comp shocks from their mounts, finally breaking one. I will never use Pro Comp again either. The Monroe spring over shocks (O'Reilly for about $100) will give about a half inch over stock raise to the rear, which levels out the rear of a sagging suspension. Then using the shackles and torsion twist you can easily fit 31" tires without problems. A set of 32 inchers look great, but will slightly rub the plastic fender trim on the wheel wells with sharp turns or heavy acceleration in reverse with the wheels turned left or right. My '95 Sport sets a little higher in the rear with all three mods, but it helps when I've got it loaded down and the trailer on.
 






If you're like the rest of us, with a slightly sagging rear, here's what I'd suggest:

Warrior or some other beefy shackle (1 1/2 inches, $110)
Pro Comp add a leaf (1 inch, $40, as long as you don't have the monoleaf)
Torsion twist to bring the front up to even (1 1/2 or so, once you compensate for the rear sag)

Then you get an average of 2 inches all around, and a firmer ride front and rear, for about $150. Spend the rest on some good tires (32s will fit) and gas for riding on some trails.

:exp:
 












i will also add, if you have the mono leaf in the rear, swap it out for a 4 door leaf pack. it will raise the back up a little (i cant really say how much, it depends if you go used or new), and will also make a major handling improvement as well
 






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