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2000 Limited 5.0, exhaust manifold/oil pressure sensor/oil level sensor questions


haas_chris

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Like many on here I have browsed many threads and received much appreciated help (even if it wasn't directed towards me), so I am hoping I can get some help with a coupe specific questions.
I am the original owner of a 2000 Limited with 5.0 AWD with 170,XXX miles on it. I have a few items that I want/need to look into.
1. Oil pressure sensor: I have the dancing oil pressure gauge on the dash for quite some time (now that I look back I posted the video below about 2 years ago). I took it to a shop and they stated that it was just the Oil pressure sensor. Looking through here it seems the consensus is to remove the driver side tire and get it through the wheel well. Question I have, is there anything else I should look into while replacing this? Is there a gasket on it that I should order separately? Any other issue that might cause the gauge to dance like this?
2. Oil Level sensor?: I have an oil leak and from looking under the truck there is something I am not positive what it is..?? from the bottom of the truck on the passenger side of the oil pan, about 1/2 way up the side, there is "something" that has a connector with a plug and a bolt head to remove. It appears to be quite wet with oil all around it. I am assuming this could be the oil level sensor. I am not even certain that is a part but I have a display inside that will tell me if the oil is extremely low so there has to be a level sensor somewhere? If I am correct and it is the oil level sensor, is it common or possible for it to be leaking? I am kind of hoping this is the case and next time i am doing an oil change I can replace this and cross my fingers it helps if not resolves the oil leak.
3. Lastly the exhaust manifold. I have a tick under load and definitely hear the exhaust leak on the passenger side exhaust manifold. Is there a negative to just replacing the passenger side and not the drivers side if it is not leaking? Wen I replace the passenger side is it good practice to replace the EGR pipe and the EGR valve? These are original to the truck. Besides soaking the bolts days before doing the work is there any tips/suggestions? If I break a stud or a bolt while removing, what is the standard repair practice? if it is a stud do you drill out and tap for a bolt?

I have recently expanded the family and purchased a new 2017 explorer sport, the limited will hopefully still be my daily driver for at least a couple/few more years as I work in construction and don't want to take the new one to job sites.

 


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vroomzoomboom

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oil pressure sensor is a place to start. yes, you will want to go through the wheel well to get at it. it may also make it easier to take the power steering/ a/c bracket off the motor for more room, but that too will require some work (removing the belt, power steering pulley, power steering pump, a/c compressor) then unbolting it from the head (which is three bolts as well).
yes, that plug on the side of the pan with the wires going into it is your oil sensor for your message centre in the centre console. those have been known to leak. this one however, i cant say if replacing it fixes that or not.
as for your tick, i would look at your egr tube first. make sure its not cracked, or have any black soot marks on it. as well as there are 2 hoses that come off it and goes to your DEFP sensor on the back side of your intake elbow. those sometimes either blow off, or rub a hole in them. that may also be the ticking sound you hear. those are the easiest ones to look for first. if i am not wrong, its normally the drivers manifold that cracks, and not the passengers side. if you break a bolt in the head while trying to get the manifold off, you will have opened a can of worms trying to get the bolt out. its not fun at all.
 




haas_chris

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as for your tick, i would look at your egr tube first. make sure its not cracked, or have any black soot marks on it. as well as there are 2 hoses that come off it and goes to your DEFP sensor on the back side of your intake elbow. those sometimes either blow off, or rub a hole in them. that may also be the ticking sound you hear. those are the easiest ones to look for first. if i am not wrong, its normally the drivers manifold that cracks, and not the passengers side. if you break a bolt in the head while trying to get the manifold off, you will have opened a can of worms trying to get the bolt out. its not fun at all.
Thank you for the feedback Vroomzoomboom, I will definitely be looking into the EGR tube, I hadn't thought of that being the main culprit, I assumed it was the manifold and the EGR system was just an after thought of needing to be replaced at the same time.
 




Mbrooks420

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It’s the passenger side that fails. No reason to replace both, of the drivers side is still sealed up.

It’s unlikely you will get that EGR tube off in one piece. There’s a fair chance they are both cracked, it was thatveas on both my V8s.

My first Mounty was exceedingly rusty, and I got the manifold out with very little trouble. The bolts, however, were TIGHT, and I was sure every one was going to snap before they popped free.
 




koda2000

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Heat can be your friend when trying to get rusty nuts/bolts loose. You can use a handheld torch but get the MAP gas cylinder (yellow) a it burns hotter. In my experience using penetrating fluids is pretty useless until you can get the nut/bolt loose enough to actually get the fluid onto/into the threads.

By 2000 the V8 exhaust headers were cast iron (earlier years had headers made of tubing). The cast iron headers were less prone to cracking than the tubing ones, so your leak may be EGR related.

Yes, that thing on the passenger side of your oil pan is the oil level sensor for your msg center. Mine leaks too (2001 Explorer 5.0L), but not bad enough for me to bother fixing it. I keep trying to remember to fuss with it during my next oil change, but I never do. IDK if maybe loosening/removing it and putting some RTV on it's gasket (which I think is metal) would help.

I also need to replace the oil pressure switch on my daughter's 2000 Mountaineer 5.0L. It sometimes doesn't register at all and sets off the CHECK GAGE light. Other times it bangs back and forth so hard it gets the needle stuck under the gauge's peg. Most of the time it works okay. I've looked at the sender switch and it looks like a real PITA to get at to change (even going through the fender). It may not be possible without removing the P/S pump. I believe the switch is NPT (tapered pipe thread), so no gasket require. They usually come with some sealant on the threads, but if they don't, don't use Teflon tape on the threads, or the switch may not ground.
 




bobflood

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I have replaced the oil pressure sender in my 5.0. I removed the tire and went in thru the wheel well; I did not have to remove anything else. Needed a long extension, though. It was not a bad job. Good luck.
 




koda2000

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I have replaced the oil pressure sender in my 5.0. I removed the tire and went in thru the wheel well; I did not have to remove anything else. Needed a long extension, though. It was not a bad job. Good luck.
I tried to get at mine once (just to remove the wire). I didn't see any way I could get any type of tool on it. I'll revisit it in the spring.
 




haas_chris

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Thanks to everyone for the tips/advice/experience. I am hopefully going to have some time in 2 weeks to look into this work. Going to look into the EGR pipe next coupe of days before ordering parts though!
 




bobflood

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Further memory kicking in - I may have done the oil pressure sender at the same time as an oil change, so the filter was off and out of the way. Fair warning - my memory is not so good any more, so this all might be totally wrong!!
 




koda2000

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Further memory kicking in - I may have done the oil pressure sender at the same time as an oil change, so the filter was off and out of the way. Fair warning - my memory is not so good any more, so this all might be totally wrong!!
LOL. I hear you brother.
 




haas_chris

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Further memory kicking in - I may have done the oil pressure sender at the same time as an oil change, so the filter was off and out of the way. Fair warning - my memory is not so good any more, so this all might be totally wrong!!
Lol!
I use that excuse all the time!
Now question of the day. Anyone have a part number or source for the oil level sensor!? I’m getting stumped on that right now. I’m going to send an old buddy who used to work ford parts a message this afternoon hoping he still works there to see if he can come up with anything.
 




haas_chris

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So if anyone has any connections or suggestions. My old buddy does still work at Ford Parts and I got the following info from him:
Oil Sensor part #F3LY6C624A - $130 list price discontinued, said he has access to 2 in the country.
Washer for sensor part #E9DZ6C626A - $30 list price discontinued, said he has plenty of access to these
My delima is me trying to be cheap, I was hoping total cost would be around $20-$30... With that being said, I know Koda mentioned possibly trying RTV on his in the future, has anyone tried this with success? Anyone removed this and just inserted a "plug" with a gasket to help with the oil leak? Honestly that is my main concern is slowing the oil leak. I am leaking/burning through probably 1-1/2 - 2 quarts every 3,000 - 4,000 miles.
 




koda2000

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So if anyone has any connections or suggestions. My old buddy does still work at Ford Parts and I got the following info from him:
Oil Sensor part #F3LY6C624A - $130 list price discontinued, said he has access to 2 in the country.
Washer for sensor part #E9DZ6C626A - $30 list price discontinued, said he has plenty of access to these
My delima is me trying to be cheap, I was hoping total cost would be around $20-$30... With that being said, I know Koda mentioned possibly trying RTV on his in the future, has anyone tried this with success? Anyone removed this and just inserted a "plug" with a gasket to help with the oil leak? Honestly that is my main concern is slowing the oil leak. I am leaking/burning through probably 1-1/2 - 2 quarts every 3,000 - 4,000 miles.
Ouch! $130 or even $30 is too much for me. I'll try the RTV first. Generally a like the red RTV for most of my sealing needs, though I also have some Ultra Black which worked really well on my rear diff cover. It's going to be a while before I change my oil again. (I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance, and only change my oil once a year. I typically drive my EB less than 7,000 miles per year).

I'd love to hear from someone that RTV is a viable option. My sensor doesn't even drip, but I'd like to fix it.
 




haas_chris

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I also need to replace the oil pressure switch on my daughter's 2000 Mountaineer 5.0L. It sometimes doesn't register at all and sets off the CHECK GAGE light. Other times it bangs back and forth so hard it gets the needle stuck under the gauge's peg. Most of the time it works okay. I've looked at the sender switch and it looks like a real PITA to get at to change (even going through the fender). It may not be possible without removing the P/S pump. I believe the switch is NPT (tapered pipe thread), so no gasket require. They usually come with some sealant on the threads, but if they don't, don't use Teflon tape on the threads, or the switch may not ground.
Koda,
You must have known my next "issue". My needle had not banged below the gauges peg before this past week. How do you get it back to the other side? Is there a trick or do I need to get into/through the instrument cluster to manually get it back on the other side?
 




koda2000

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Koda,
You must have known my next "issue". My needle had not banged below the gauges peg before this past week. How do you get it back to the other side? Is there a trick or do I need to get into/through the instrument cluster to manually get it back on the other side?
Well you could take apart the dash. With the cluster trim panel removed the lens can be removed to gain access to the needle. Then you can lift if over the peg. However, if it happened once it may happen again. My solution was to drill a small hole in the lens and to use a dental pick to lift the needle over the peg. If you want (and if you drill the right size hole) you can plug the hole with the plastic plug off the top of a black Bic ballpoint pen, or just leave it open.
 




haas_chris

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Well you could take apart the dash. With the cluster trim panel removed the lens can be removed to gain access to the needle. Then you can lift if over the peg. However, if it happened once it may happen again. My solution was to drill a small hole in the lens and to use a dental pick to lift the needle over the peg. If you want (and if you drill the right size hole) you can plug the hole with the plastic plug off the top of a black Bic ballpoint pen, or just leave it open.
Thank you again for the advice.
 




haas_chris

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So I took the plunge yesterday evening and today.
Oil pressure sensor, If it was not for having to unplug the cable from the connector first This would have been way easier. I had tight but pretty easy access to 3 sides of the sensor, of course the release for the plug was on the 4th side. As many others mentioned I went through the driver side wheel well, The removal of the sensor itself was easy once i got the cable unplugged. Used a long extension with a swivel on it and it came right out. New one went right in and of course plugging in the connector was way easier than removing it. I also tore the dash apart and fixed my oil pressure needle.
Oil Level sensor, Once I cleaned up the area and got a closer look, it appears my leak is coming from higher in the engine. I did tighten the sensor about a 1/4 of a turn. I also, felt a few oil pan bolts that felt a little loose that I tightened up. Not sure if there will be any benefit but I will monitor and probably leave it like that.
Exhaust manifold, when removing I discovered the front cylinder bolts were both loose. I tightened them up and put it back together last night hoping that was the cause of the issue. Unfortunately was not the only problem, so I tore into it today. All in all this was not a horrible repair, the honest to goodness hardest part was replacing the EGR valve along with it. One I loosened up the bolts and got the manifold out it was obvious my exhaust leak was from a broken (not cracked) EGR downpipe. Replaced the manifold, EGR downpipe and the EGR valve. All seems to be good for now. Hopefully it stays this way.
 




koda2000

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Congrats! I know what you mean about the electrical connector to the oil pressure switch (and it's a "switch" and not a "sensor"). It's a bear to get that damn thing to let go. I had to disconnect it when I changed a water pump. Must have take me 20 mins to get that freaking plug off. Good to know that I will be able to change the pressure switch without too much drama.
 




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