2000 Limited ARC Questions

[1990_LX]

Hey everyone, I bought a rust free 2000 Limited 5.0 AWD Explorer and it has the ARC. I need to fix some simple things on it (leaking exhaust manifold and muffler, ball joint, front brakes) but the first thing I noticed is the truck rides absolutely TERRIBLE. I haven't gotten the chance to get under it yet as I'm going to order the parts I want and just bang it out in a weekend so I can get back to working on my project Mustang but I had some questions about the ARC. Did the 2000s come with it all around or was it only on the backs? On a quick inspection I didn't see any lines running to the front shocks so I'm assuming it's either only on the rear or someone took it out on the front rather than fix it because I know how expensive these parts used to be a few years back. The truck just hit 140k so I'm sure now would be a good time to spring for new shocks all around especially since I would like to use it to to my Mustang around to a couple places that it has to go to while it's all apart and also because I want it to ride like I would think a fully loaded SUV should. Also, being that this is the first thing I have owned with ARC, does the pump normally kick on just with the key being turned on to run? I tried that quick just to see if it's doing anything but I couldn't hear it. The switch is on, the module is hooked up, and the fuse is fine. The previous owner told me the truck sat for about a year and I have read how sensitive the ARC components are to moisture and corrosion. I was just wondering if there was a quick and easy way to test the pump or if I have to break out the old multimeter and get under there.

 

[1998Exp]

This is a tough one: few Explorers have ARC. To add insult to injury, the system changed from year to year, so the experience with my '98 will not help you much.
If the 2000 has any similarity with my 98, the compressor only runs when the ride height needs adjustment, not on key-on.

From the one 2000 Limited that I recently considered buying and checked quite carefully, I believe that those have ARC only on the rear axle. Also, the off-road functionality of toughening the shocks and increasing the ride height that mine has, did not exist in that 2000. Do you have an on/off road switch to the left of the radio? Probably not. If so, it does not have that extra complexity.

To make things even tougher for you to diagnose, the message center of the 2000 that I saw did not provide the ARC test function that mine has.

If the ride is 'terrible', I suspect that the shocks are stuck in an extreme position. This can happen even in a well-functioning system, if the vehicle is jacked up and the shocks allowed to fully extend with the ARC on.

I believe that the rear springs in the ARC-equipped Explorers are weaker, and need the shocks to be pumped-up to help. Some people who modified the system to get rid of the ARC altogether used coil-over spring type shocks to provide that extra push.

The first thing to find out what the system is supposed to do and how to confirm that it's functional is to look it up in the driver's manual. You should find at least a basic description there. Also, a rough test that worked for me was to have two people stand on the rear bumper. That pushes it down low enough to need a height adjustment and to start the compressor pumping air into the shocks. If no response, something is clearly amiss. A simple thing to check underneath is whether the ride height sensor is properly attached at both ends. Sometimes they just pop out.

If you can get your hands on the Ford Service Manual for your year, it will provide a lot of detail. Unfortunately, the test procedures described there will almost certainly call for using a pro-level scanner with Ford-specific software. If you have access to one of those (or are willing to part with $100 or so to pay for the diagnosis), this may be the quickest and most reliable way to figure out what's wrong. I doubt that your 'old multimeter' will help with much more than testing wire continuity, which is unlikely to be your problem.

For what it's worth, when the system on my 98 Limited was misbehaving, the problem turned out to be internal air leaks in the shock absorbers. Your shocks almost certainly need replacing, but if the problem is elsewhere and you can't repair it, you may be throwing your money away by buying a set of useless air-type shocks.

Sorry I could not offer more help. Good luck!

 

[1990_LX]

This is a tough one: few Explorers have ARC. To add insult to injury, the system changed from year to year, so the experience with my '98 will not help you much.
If the 2000 has any similarity with my 98, the compressor only runs when the ride height needs adjustment, not on key-on.

That's sort of what I figured, and I have no weight in the back of my truck so I could try loading it up and turning the key on.

From the one 2000 Limited that I recently considered buying and checked quite carefully, I believe that those have ARC only on the rear axle. Also, the off-road functionality of toughening the shocks and increasing the ride height that mine has, did not exist in that 2000. Do you have an on/off road switch to the left of the radio? Probably not. If so, it does not have that extra complexity.

Fortunately, mine doesn't have an on/off road switch, I believe that was only for the trucks that had adjustable shocks all around because it electronically adjusted the valving of the shocks depending on the setting.

To make things even tougher for you to diagnose, the message center of the 2000 that I saw did not provide the ARC test function that mine has.

Unfortunately, all I have is the classic "CHECK SUSP" light on in the cluster.

If the ride is 'terrible', I suspect that the shocks are stuck in an extreme position. This can happen even in a well-functioning system, if the vehicle is jacked up and the shocks allowed to fully extend with the ARC on.

It's definitely a very uncomfortable ride, that's for sure. I was going to get it up in the air this weekend and pull the front shocks because they are easy to get to and see how they compress, though they might be the origionals so I'm sure a replacement wouldn't be a bad idea at 140k.

I believe that the rear springs in the ARC-equipped Explorers are weaker, and need the shocks to be pumped-up to help. Some people who modified the system to get rid of the ARC altogether used coil-over spring type shocks to provide that extra push.

I was considering that but if I were to do it, I would want to do it the right way and I believe the non ARC equipped trucks had larger rear sway bars in addition to the stiffer springs so rather than buying parts to convert it, I'd rather just fix what I have.

The first thing to find out what the system is supposed to do and how to confirm that it's functional is to look it up in the driver's manual. You should find at least a basic description there. Also, a rough test that worked for me was to have two people stand on the rear bumper. That pushes it down low enough to need a height adjustment and to start the compressor pumping air into the shocks. If no response, something is clearly amiss. A simple thing to check underneath is whether the ride height sensor is properly attached at both ends. Sometimes they just pop out.

I'll have to get under the back to see how the sensors look. If I pull the rear shocks, would they compress like a normal shock or does the compressed air make a large difference?

If you can get your hands on the Ford Service Manual for your year, it will provide a lot of detail. Unfortunately, the test procedures described there will almost certainly call for using a pro-level scanner with Ford-specific software. If you have access to one of those (or are willing to part with $100 or so to pay for the diagnosis), this may be the quickest and most reliable way to figure out what's wrong. I doubt that your 'old multimeter' will help with much more than testing wire continuity, which is unlikely to be your problem.

I would love to find a factory service manual, though I do have full access even at home to All Data so that's a big help in lieu of a shop manual. All I was figuring with the multimeter was to see if I was getting power at the pump, because if I am and it's not doing anything then it's pretty obvious the pump is no good.

For what it's worth, when the system on my 98 Limited was misbehaving, the problem turned out to be internal air leaks in the shock absorbers. Your shocks almost certainly need replacing, but if the problem is elsewhere and you can't repair it, you may be throwing your money away by buying a set of useless air-type shocks.

I'm going to start with replacing the fronts along with doing both lower ball joints and both upper control arms purely because it's getting up there in miles and I can get the ball joints and control arms for under $150 on Rockauto for Moogs. I agree with the rears, so I will try and get the compressor functioning before dropping any cash on the rears so that way I won't lose much if it winds up not being worth it to fix it.

Sorry I could not offer more help. Good luck!

No need for apologies, any ideas are certainly appreciated!

 

[1998Exp]

Unfortunately, all I have is the classic "CHECK SUSP" light on in the cluster.

Not that much of a difference; the message center does not provide any detailed diagnostics anyway.

I'll have to get under the back to see how the sensors look. If I pull the rear shocks, would they compress like a normal shock or does the compressed air make a large difference?

Should be just a single sensor under the rear axle.
I believe that when the air tube is disconnected they will feel similar to regular shocks -- a bit hard, but possible to compress by hand. By the way, if you've never done this before, to disconnect, simply push on the plastic ring at the end of the tube and pull the tube out.

All I was figuring with the multimeter was to see if I was getting power at the pump, because if I am and it's not doing anything then it's pretty obvious the pump is no good.

Just be aware that there are also several, electrically controlled valves in the system. Not sure about your model, but they may be integral to the compressor, so get a schematic to figure out which wire is which.

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, if yours is anything like my 98, the ARC system is LIVE, regardles of KEY IN OR OUT of ignition -- thus the warning to turn it off before jacking up. I would not be crawling underneath to test anything, and especially not mess with the ride height sensor before turning the ARC off. Stay safe, my friend.