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2000 XLS OHV drinking coolant

Post number 23 has been selected as best answered.

blubirdd

Elite Explorer
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City, State
Charlottesville, Virginia
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLS
20221003_120102.LARGE.jpeg
154K miles. new radiator/flushed coolant/new hoses/thermostat. oil is clean. 1 qt. coolant added to reservoir every 1-2 wks. Runs fine. No smoke. Some say try K-Seal?
 



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I don't know what I'm looking at, but would an upper intake manifold gasket fix this? If so, considering the engine and mileage, and that you're still investing in it with the new parts, then I'd consider more than just K-Seal, even putting a head if there is warpage or cracks or that gasket.

Guess it might come down to, how much to invest, what's it worth to you, how long you want to get out of it or just keep from visibily leaking to sell it.

I don't like adding stop leak products for long term use as it creates muck in the system. Then again you can flush it later, might be acceptable to just keep it running and go from there. Choices change when a vehicle is getting old and low value.
 






ChrisFix did a successful 2-yr. repair using Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Sealer Comments?
 






I don't know what I'm looking at, but would an upper intake manifold gasket fix this? If so, considering the engine and mileage, and that you're still investing in it with the new parts, then I'd consider more than just K-Seal, even putting a head if there is warpage or cracks or that gasket.

Guess it might come down to, how much to invest, what's it worth to you, how long you want to get out of it or just keep from visibily leaking to sell it.

I don't like adding stop leak products for long term use as it creates muck in the system.
$erious shortage of funds + medical i$$ues too. If the Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Sealer can give me another 24 mos. of burning less coolant, I'll be grateful.
 






I wouldn't put a time period on it, but yes, seems like the right choice to try to hold off time for now.
 






View attachment 435224154K miles. new radiator/flushed coolant/new hoses/thermostat. oil is clean. 1 qt. coolant added to reservoir every 1-2 wks. Runs fine. No smoke. Some say try K-Seal?
imo k seal in that it stays suspended in the fluid ive seen others clog stuff before, havent tried the bars (or any of that for matters sake) but have seen them clog the system. havent heard of that with k seal @koda2000 (phil) and @donalds iirc are big fans, and they have plenty experience!
 






imo k seal in that it stays suspended in the fluid ive seen others clog stuff before, havent tried the bars (or any of that for matters sake) but have seen them clog the system. havent heard of that with k seal @koda2000 (phil) and @donalds iirc are big fans, and they have plenty experience!
ChrisFix also suggested K-Seal Ultimate. It's directions tell to disable the spark plug + injector temporarily (Scotty Kilmer suggests same.) How do I tell which plug is leaking (no codes yet)?
 






I'd just do the kseal without pulling anything. You do want to bypass the heater core first with a barbed double nipple. Kseal could clog a heater core.
 






Pull the spark plugs and look for the wet one
 






Could be timing cover, but your coolant inlet tube, thermostat housing looks rusty, it may be leaking?

Head gasket can blow out like that. The leak is external.
 






ChrisFix also suggested K-Seal Ultimate. It's directions tell to disable the spark plug + injector temporarily (Scotty Kilmer suggests same.) How do I tell which plug is leaking (no codes yet)?
disable injectors is pedal to the floor its supposed to clear a flood (test on warm engine in case throttle cable stretched so it doesnt register WOT) and plugs, dunno, iirc there was a relay? if not can remove the wire off the plug.
 






K seal is not for an external leak like this
Will it slow it down? Maybe
But an hour or two should actually be spent finding the leak
It could be:
thermostat housing
heater hose/heater diverter valve
lower intake gasket

this is basically routine maintenance on a 22 year old pushrod 4.0

very likely time for lower intake gasket, upper intake O rings, injector O rings, EGR O ring
A competent mechanic familiar with this engine can do this repair in a few hours

Us mechanics often say
Spend a little now, or spend ALOT later
 






K seal is not for an external leak like this
Will it slow it down? Maybe
But an hour or two should actually be spent finding the leak
It could be:
thermostat housing
heater hose/heater diverter valve
lower intake gasket

this is basically routine maintenance on a 22 year old pushrod 4.0

very likely time for lower intake gasket, upper intake O rings, injector O rings, EGR O ring
A competent mechanic familiar with this engine can do this repair in a few hours

Us mechanics often say
Spend a little now, or spend ALOT later
Thx. Can't afford squat right now. Working on theory of pressurized leak (hence coolant pool atop right engine) of insufficiently-tightened spiral clamp on newly-replaced main hose? Am monitoring coolant loss post-tightening.
 






...Working on theory of pressurized leak (hence coolant pool atop right engine) of insufficiently-tightened spiral clamp on newly-replaced main hoses? Am monitoring coolant loss post-tightening.
Washed away (pooled coolant on) top of engine after wrench-tightening (vs. screwdriver) new clamps. No accumulation since!
Lower clamp was damp at new hose-to-new-radiator.
Now seems new clamps were seeping at operating pressure while in motion; then resealing at rest.
Wrench tightening gave extra 1-2 rotations over screwdriver tightening of clamp drives. Seems a little fix is paying dividends.
Continuing to monitor coolant loss in coming days/weeks...
 






sweet! I always use my 1/4 drive or nut drivers on hose clamps! flatblade screwdriver yuck
 












View attachment 435224154K miles. new radiator/flushed coolant/new hoses/thermostat. oil is clean. 1 qt. coolant added to reservoir every 1-2 wks. Runs fine. No smoke. Some say try K-Seal?
Radiator fluid on the manifold may mean the water outlet assembly is leaking. I had to replace this at 120k, then again at 163k.
 






Rule of thumb w hose clamps is to tighten then down until the clamp/band surface is level with the rubber
Then run a few heat cycles and check your torque
 






Chris fix lol, it's likely kseal pays him to promote their product because their stuff is garbage, you're just as good dumping a bottle of black pepper than kseal. If you absolutely cannot afford to fix your leak or burning issue, use Blue Devil. It's the only sealer I've ever seen work as it should.
 



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K seal works just fine
Just saying
And yes I've used it and recommend it
 






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