2000 XLS OHV drinking coolant | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2000 XLS OHV drinking coolant

Post number 23 has been selected as best answered.

black pepper is good trick
So is loose tobacco from cigarette
best trick is to first find the source of leak then decide how to seal it up
For small internal head gasket leak K seal is goooooood stuff
need to re apply every season / every other season or leak will come back
we have been here way before Chris Fix was a thing

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Lesson learned. ("Hose Clamps: 101."
update (2 wks.+): system is holding; no additions!

Given age of engine and forum discussion: Adding K-Seal seems good prevention advice (towards future possible leaks...)

Given age of engine and forum discussion: Adding K-Seal seems good prevention advice (towards future possible leaks...)
NO! Any time you can resolve a leak without adding a sealer (K-Seal, Barr's, etc.), be glad you fixed the problem and move-on from there. Do not add sealers as a "preventative." Sealers, when used for the right problem, and applied the right way, can be very good at sealing leaks. However, other times, they simply don't work. All sealers can (potentially) cause clogs in the cooling system. Therefore, the potential exists that "preventative" use of a sealer (could) cause a clog. You don't want clogs... you don't want to create a problem where one didn't previously exist.

I've used k-Seal with some degree of success. My front timing chain cover is leaking coolant... and K-Seal has significantly slowed the leak. But, on the other hand, I've used it on a leaking water pump... and it didn't do anything. And, there are many posters who've had perfect success with it.

Regarding a confirmed head or head gasket leak, know that there's a "new generation" of sealers for these leaks. They use "liquid glass" (sodium silicate) and can be very effective. However, they won't do anything for a leaking hose nor thermostat housing. I've used one of these... and had great success.

I have never added anything to my cooling systems
I have taken apart many cooling systems and you can tell when sealants are used, not the best idea IMO

should be proper gaskets, proper clamps, and proper fluid NO BAND AIDS unless absolutely required
This is why the old school dudes will use pepper or tobacco it will help stop leak for a while and then can be flushed out when repair is made

Radiator fluid on the manifold may mean the water outlet assembly is leaking. I had to replace this at 120k, then again at 163k.
Not on an OHV. It is thick, heavy piece of steel pipe. Unless it rusts thru, but if that were the case there would probably be much larger problems 😆. Mine was a bit rusty, I cleaned it up and painted it, looks new now. I think there are replacements available too, but it should not leak.

Worm clamps are also tricky. If tightened cold, they will expand a bit and possibly leak. If tightened hot, they will contract a bit, possibly put too much stress. Those cycles can also move the screw and leak, but honestly they usually work once set.

The factory clamps are engineered spring tension clamps with constant clamping force.

"Advice taken" (despite (neglected) saved 'opinion': "K-Seal added to coolant every 3 yrs. as preventive maintenance against leaks and head gasket failure"(now rejected per your details/explanations: Thank you.))

imo k seal in that it stays suspended in the fluid ive seen others clog stuff before, havent tried the bars (or any of that for matters sake) but have seen them clog the system. havent heard of that with k seal @koda2000 (phil) and @donalds iirc are big fans, and they have plenty experience!
I finally used K-Seal. Just like the label says, >3 minutes after reaching operating temperature, the idle suddenly became smoother. Coolant level holding steady now 1 month+. Thanks to all for suggestions.