2000 XLT (AWD) grinding with new front axles. ( I searched but... read) | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2000 XLT (AWD) grinding with new front axles. ( I searched but... read)

I personally got my front drive shaft from Eric.. brand new Ford OEM.. great deal.. no problems here.

Don't go to Napa! The front ds I got from them, lasted about a week before the cv joint exploded.. and that was me being easy on it.
 



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The hub is bolted to the outer side of the knuckle, and the cv axle end that goes into it only holds it into place afaik. The"stub" isn't pressed against anything, it doesn't even make contact with the knuckle. (Well, mine did.. which is why everything went to hell.. haha) I'm just not understanding how on our vehicles running without a cv axle, can damage the hub..

Because the way I see it, that axle nut, and the cv axle end that goes into the hub.. it's designed that way to (obviously, turn the front wheels) and to keep the cv axle in at a stable place without any in-out movement in the hub assembly. It's not really holding anything together.. I've taken a hub assembly and pulled it into two parts.. (yeah... that's how bad it got..) and the part that spins goes all the way to the inside part.. with a little bit of the case being back there too.. (prolly a good idea to grease or anti-seize this part up btw) I don't see how having that shaft in holds anything together, only holds the axle in-place.

I've had it apart too... If you pulled it into two parts, you did something wrong... there's three parts:

2584128014_214a127900_b.jpg


The flanged piece of the assembly on the right is pressed into the inner bearing on the left through the mounting flange in the middle. Without an outer CV joint holding the assembly clamped together, you'd be relying on the friction between the inner bearing and the shaft pressed into it to hold the wheel on the vehicle. It will walk right out if not retained with the outer half of the outer CV clamping it together. It's happened to several members on here who thought otherwise.

Now, getting back to the topic at hand... The Advance Auto web site lists those seals specifically for the FRONT axle of a 2000 Explorer, two different brands, and two different part numbers for the left and right sides (which I would expect as they're two different seals). The part numbers that come up are:

SKF: 13757 (left) $19.99
SKF: 17520 (right) $19.99
National: 710429 (left) $28.99
National: 710428 (right) $28.99

According to the web site, my local store has the Nationals on the shelf, and the SKF's a day away. They call out the D35 SLA front end specifically in the description for the Nationals, so I'm confident they have the correct part.
 






I understand now, see now.. I thought it was a 2 piece assembly.

And when I said I pulled it apart, I didn't mean on purpose.. lol... the whole unit was.... it was just bad... all bad.... anyways.. thanks for the explanation.. it makes perfect sense now why the cv should be in. (or at least the hub side)
 






Yeah, I guess in a pinch, a piece of threaded rod with a couple of big flat washers would work in a pinch... Just needs to be the right diameter on the inside and hold the assembly clamped together at speed... If I was in a pinch, and all I had was a big bolt, lock nut, and a couple washers, I'd do it!

[/hijack]

-Joe
 






Okay!!!

When I got the Diff, it came iwth a free driveshaft! (Still attached).

Also, I have the seals!

Now i need those bolts!
8x1.25-50

what is the -50?!

how long are these bolts? how are they washered/ lock washered, etc?

Pix anyone?!
 






50 mm long... From the under-side of the head to the tip of the threads.
 






...Just curious.. how much did you spend on both axles?
 






That was my thought.

I'm now trying to determine the washers and stuff required.
I will use RED threadlock, but there are thes straps that go in between neighboring bolts.
I dont have those.
 






I spent $60 on each complete lock to lock, ready to install, AutoZone.
 






I never understood what those long metal peices were for.. that goes bolt to bolt on the tcase end... idk..
 






I've never looked at mine, but if they're like most Ford bolts, they're hardened, flanged-head, and loctited in place. For an exact-fit bolt, hit-up a dealership... they can't be that expensive, right? ;)
 












Lmao! I just spent $20 for a single bolt from Ford!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It holds the caliper bracket to the knuckle.... jesus.. $20!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

R u kidding me?

Oh well... do what you gotta do to get ur **** runnin..
 






I plam on going to auto parts stores and/or napa to get these parts.

I'll figger somthing out.
 






e-mail the guy in the For Sale forum that's parting out a bunch of Explorers... He's probably got piles of them laying around...

-Joe
 






Bet i cant get them in Atlanta, tonight. :)
 






This saga is getting to be more then I can take.

I installed the diff and driveshaft.
I installed the front CV axels and everything (Got six grade 8 bolts from a hardware store 8x1.25-50mm and split washers).

I went driving and I have to say, the truck with it's v8 LEPT like CRAZY!
The power is amazing comared to the truck with no front drive.

Now, I get on the road and there is a vibration.
I roll back to the garage and discover the Ujoint at the transfer case is shot and flopping around.

No wonder the driveshaft was free. :|

I remove the driveshaft and drive the replaced front diff and CV axels for 24 hours until i can get some sleep.

The next day, (Sunday) I get one from the Advance Auto warehouse in Atlanta (I have to go get it becuase it's Sunday)

I install it and i should be golden!
New driveshaft, new CV joints and the front diff was silent for 24 hours (as I drove it around with no connection to the transfer case).

Now, i go for a drive, and i shoul dhave AWD and no problems.

NOPE!

I drive off and apparently all is well, until a get to to a certain speed and it starts roaring.
It doesnt stop roaring until i come to a complete stop and sit, then I can go about 10 MPH with no appriciable sound. If I go faster, it starts and doesnt stop until I halt

Symptoms and observations:
The front diff is full of new fluid.
The CV joints are fine
(Remember i drove that setup for a day spinning free)

The front diff felt warm and would possibly burn my hand a bit if i held it there.
The driveshaft at the Transfer Case end was hot too.

The shaft itself was cool
The CV joints were cool

The tires didnt appear to scrub at any time.
(So i assume i have the right ratio diff)

I removed the driveshaft and drove normally.
No problems.

This is where I am now.

HELP?!

What can i do?
Do i need to provide more info to get a good idea of whats heppening?
 






Check over the front axle's mounting points. Vibration at speed (which goes away when the driveshaft is removed) sounds like the axle isnt at the right angle and therefore the driveshaft is at the wrong angle.
 






Its not so much a vibration as a roaring.

It also isn't "directly" proportional to my speed.
It appears after a few moments beyond a particular speed and gets worse.

It only goes away once I come to a complete stop.

Besides, i inspected the mount points.
No vibration evidence and they were tightly bound to each mount point.

I had suspected that I got the wrong ratio diff, (off by a hair) but not only isn't "a hair" of difference possible, it's been verified i got a 3.73 diff, and that is apparently what my 2000 XLT AWD V8 needs.

(It's what my receipt from the yard says anyway.)

The only other possibility is that they pulled the diff from the wrong car.
 



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It could be a gear mis match for sure--

Also-
it is very important to have " non worn" tires on an AWD
the tire diameters must match each other- even a different brand of the same size tire may have as much as 1/2" difference in diameter-
 






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