2001 5.0 Eddie Bauer Vacuum Diagram is Unobtanium!

[Exploder321]

I have searched for a vacuum diagram for my 2001 5.0 Eddie Bauer AWD over several Ford truck and SUV forums with very little luck. My Haynes manual doesn't have one. Found some partial diagrams of the right side vacuum reservoir, a few for the 4.0. There is a thread on this forum to which other threads refer, but the links to the diagrams have gone bad. The entire vacuum system requires a rebuild, after 20 years, its Swiss cheese and the vents have gone to the defroster default. I have a vacuum pump to test the lines and none of them hold a vacuum. Thanks for your help.

 

[DR98FL]

My experience is with my 98 Ex sport 4.0 SOHC.

Find the Ford factory wiring manual for your year and engine. In the 98 wiring manual it has the vacuum diagrams in it.

When the hvac system defaults to the defrost vents, it is the round vacuum ball with check valve in it. On the 98 it is mounted under the air filter box. This is it below -

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[CDW6212R]

The 95-01 Explorer in dash vacuum lines will be the same for all engines, the only difference will be the AC control type, EATC or not.

The 302 vacuum lines for the engine, will be very very similar for any EFI 302's. I'm not sure where they could be found for the 96-01 Explorers, but if they don't turn up quickly, I'd look at a 94/95 Mustang, and then an 89-93 Mustang.

If you need parts, the choices will be used and old, or replace lines with aftermarket rubber or plastic lines. Good luck.

 

[J_C]

Is this vehicle new to you? It seems very unlikely that all vac lines would simultaneously start leaking, and I don't know how you tested to declare "none of them hold a vacuum", but the general way to do this is focus on the specific subsystem and work your way back to the manifold, or flood the whole thing with a smoke test (into brake booster line is probably easiest) to find where it leaks, though with the HVAC, assuming there is a vac check valve, you'd instead want to put smoke in upstream of it or remove it and use a hose coupler in its place for the test.

Anyway I saw a few diagrams, one for a 5.0 mustang and one for '99 5.0L Explorer and one for HVAC, and page 3+ on the Workshop Manual Climate Control Section PDF linked.

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/air-conditioning-412-00-climate-control-1999-workshop-manual-pdf.331790/

 

[Exploder321]

Thanks guys! Car isn't new to me, have done plenty of work on it, but honestly it's run great with regular changes to the plugs and wires. I had to replace the EGR differential pressure sensor, and repair the line going to the EGR itself. I did put a hand vacuum pump with a gauge on at the hot water cut off valve vacuum connection, didn't hold a vacuum. Same for the line coming off the manifold headed to the right side of the engine, will not hold a vacuum (same section I believe). The vents in the dash are not getting any vacuum as they have defaulted to DEF. I picked up 10' of 5/32 vacuum line, a bunch of connectors and T's. Going to replace each line one by one and generate a good diagram I'll post. Another diagram I found best represents what I have, at least for the area it covers.

 

[CDW6212R]

Begin with the vacuum storage ball, the line to that is very prone to getting broken or cracked. Take your time getting to it, it's under the right inner fender, most people don't find it until they are told how it's buried there. Those vacuum lines along that passenger side are the most vulnerable, I'd replace those first.

 

[Exploder321]

Begin with the vacuum storage ball, the line to that is very prone to getting broken or cracked. Take your time getting to it, it's under the right inner fender, most people don't find it until they are told how it's buried there. Those vacuum lines along that passenger side are the most vulnerable, I'd replace those first.

Thanks, I pulled down the fender well the other day and found the reservoir, that was before I had the test pump. One of the lines on that side had melted against the exhaust manifold some time ago, fixed that by cutting out the melted part and connecting the ends with very small rubber tubing. This vehicle has had major repairs in the front from a collision, the guys that do that kind of work rarely replace all the fasteners or put small things back the way it was built. Need to find the holes for the plastic mounts and secure the new lines.

 

[Exploder321]

Well, chalk one up for experience... The vacuum diagram is on a placard in the engine compartment just above the radiator, to the left of the serp belt routing diagram. Who knew? Not having a problem previously I guess I never really noticed it. At any rate, here's a picture of it.

 

[J_C]

I attached that in post #4.

 

[Exploder321]

I attached that in post #4.

Yes, thank you!

 

[Exploder321]

I found the culprit, the line from the manifold to the reservoir had split right at the reservoir. Almost looks like it was twisted off.

 

[Exploder321]

Unfastened the fender well and found the damaged end. Removed the stub from the connector and pushed in the end of the tube and reconnected (repair shown in pic of reservoir; aft connection repair doesn't show the stop lip as on the other line) and all checks good from that same spot at the manifold, to the reservoir, to the dash and the hot water control valve. Dash vents are now operating normally, car is starting better. Mileage should improve, haven't checked that yet.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done, progress is good.

 

[Exploder321]

On the other side (left side/drivers side), the small plastic vacuum line checked good, in that direction under the drivers front fender near the bumper is the Fuel Vapor Management Valve. I haven't looked into its operation specifically, so I suspect the small line provides vacuum to a diaphragm to move the valve once the PCM applies the available vacuum by actuating a small valve. Its purpose is to burn off fuel vapors from the gas tank charcoal canister by drawing them into the manifold at the appropriate time. Of the larger connections, the white one goes up to the manifold; the green one (hard to see) appears to go aft to the charcoal canister/gas tank. These connections feel a little loose, and are unavailable from Ford, . Not sure how to tackle that just yet. Possibly apply something that will seal but not glue it in place? Or replace the connectors with rubber hose pushed onto the connection (this will require some form of 90 deg elbow and a size change as the connections are larger than the hoses I.D. The hoses at this point aren't in bad shape

 

[CDW6212R]

Try to maintain those OEM hoses and connections to the evap system, those are very hard to come by or replace with alternatives. That large white junction connector there should mate with the solenoid unit properly, straight. The sealing inside that is good enough to last decades if it's straight, but it will probably leak soon once it's left crooked like that.

 

[fast_dave]

^^^^

Just an FYI -
With some searching, the various diameter Hard Plastic Tubing used for connecting the smog components
can be obtained aftermarket, and is called:

* Poly Flo
* Polyflo
* Poly flow
* Polyflow

And there's always the bone yard - but that will be old, exposed to heat, yada, yada, yada...

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Dave, that name is helpful to hunt down some of those. Everything is possible to find, but it usually takes a lot of time to research it, to find it all. Do it sooner than later. I was collecting a lot of new parts 10-15 years ago, to restore one truck. I've been used to hunting old parts since the 80's when I got my 2nd Ranchero. It's an adventure to own old cars.

 

[Exploder321]

Try to maintain those OEM hoses and connections to the evap system, those are very hard to come by or replace with alternatives. That large white junction connector there should mate with the solenoid unit properly, straight. The sealing inside that is good enough to last decades if it's straight, but it will probably leak soon once it's left crooked like that.

Yeah, I noticed that. Couldn't get it to sit on straight, the hoses are pulling on it, need to figure out how to release the strain on it, though it may already be too damaged. Was considering capping off the manifold connection for the entire works, I don't think the car would know (of course, it would have to be reconnected for inspection), though it may impact the gas tank pressure. The other option is to re-engineer it with larger hose and fittings to reduce down to the one running to the manifold, and add in the service port line. I think that connection is loose/leaking as well. I feel a visit to Pick-N-Pull coming on.

 

[steveatthebeach]

I have searched for a vacuum diagram for my 2001 5.0 Eddie Bauer AWD over several Ford truck and SUV forums with very little luck. My Haynes manual doesn't have one. Found some partial diagrams of the right side vacuum reservoir, a few for the 4.0. There is a thread on this forum to which other threads refer, but the links to the diagrams have gone bad. The entire vacuum system requires a rebuild, after 20 years, its Swiss cheese and the vents have gone to the defroster default. I have a vacuum pump to test the lines and none of them hold a vacuum. Thanks for your help.

When hitting old/outdated links, try this site Wayback Machine It’s a list of webpages that don’t exist anymore.

The internet never forgets…anything

 

[Exploder321]

As it turns out, the connector for the Fuel Vapor Management Valve was damaged at some point and didn't have any guts in it, therefore no seal and why it was crooked. Looks like the O-ring is held in by a small sleeve that goes in the end of the connector. The other connector that goes to a steel tube headed for the canister/gas tank had welded itself to the steel connection point. I had to cut it off with a hack saw blade, and the inner part that held the o-ring. What a pain.