pintobobster
Member
- Joined
- July 17, 2014
- Messages
- 33
- Reaction score
- 2
- City, State
- Vancouver, WA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1995 ford ranger XLT 4WD
So here is what I found and did to swap the 2001 Explorer white faced cluster panels into my 1995 Ranger using all my 1995 gauges and housing with the plastic board.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
CONNECTOR C216 PIN# 3 PK/LG
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C215 PIN# 4 (MINE WAS EMPTY)
DOOR AJAR
CONNECTOR C215 PIN# 3 BK/O
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 6
FUEL RESET ( WHICH IS INERTIA SWITCH ON PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR TO SHUT OFF FUEL INCASE OF IMPACT)
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 6 GY/O
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 3 (MINE WAS EMPTY)
Took pictures of all gauge settings prior to pulling dash apart and removing needles from panel.
After I got everything together (re-pinning) I left face lens off to expose needles so I could set them correctly.
I then started the truck let it idle for 20 minutes set my RPM needle at just below 1000 RPM from picture I took, I put my other needles approx center setting for my TEMP, OIL, and BATTERY. Then I drove to fuel station filled tank and set fuel needle just slightly to right edge of black marker above the F, (it use to go way past the F before but I do not mind having a little reserve fuel in take). then set up my GPS drove to the freeway and set my cruise control to 60MPH and set my Speedometer needle to match,
I then Drove home seated all my needles to correct height as to not hit/scrap on panels.
Been doing fine for the week I have been driving it. And it looks GREAT......
Also I used new Needles I bought off EBAY
The only mod I had to do to get them to fit correctly was cut them shorter to set on pins of gauges and for the Battery I pulled the metal tab out of original needle and drilled a bit larger hole in the ebay needle and push the metal tab into the new needle and it set just fine on the battery gauge no gluing or other mod and it is not sloppy or loose works like factory.
Hope this helps others with a 2001 Explorer white face cluster panel swap into a 1995 Ford Ranger......???
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
CONNECTOR C216 PIN# 3 PK/LG
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C215 PIN# 4 (MINE WAS EMPTY)
DOOR AJAR
CONNECTOR C215 PIN# 3 BK/O
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 6
FUEL RESET ( WHICH IS INERTIA SWITCH ON PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR TO SHUT OFF FUEL INCASE OF IMPACT)
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 6 GY/O
MOVE TO
CONNECTOR C214 PIN# 3 (MINE WAS EMPTY)
Took pictures of all gauge settings prior to pulling dash apart and removing needles from panel.
After I got everything together (re-pinning) I left face lens off to expose needles so I could set them correctly.
I then started the truck let it idle for 20 minutes set my RPM needle at just below 1000 RPM from picture I took, I put my other needles approx center setting for my TEMP, OIL, and BATTERY. Then I drove to fuel station filled tank and set fuel needle just slightly to right edge of black marker above the F, (it use to go way past the F before but I do not mind having a little reserve fuel in take). then set up my GPS drove to the freeway and set my cruise control to 60MPH and set my Speedometer needle to match,
I then Drove home seated all my needles to correct height as to not hit/scrap on panels.
Been doing fine for the week I have been driving it. And it looks GREAT......
Also I used new Needles I bought off EBAY
The only mod I had to do to get them to fit correctly was cut them shorter to set on pins of gauges and for the Battery I pulled the metal tab out of original needle and drilled a bit larger hole in the ebay needle and push the metal tab into the new needle and it set just fine on the battery gauge no gluing or other mod and it is not sloppy or loose works like factory.
Hope this helps others with a 2001 Explorer white face cluster panel swap into a 1995 Ford Ranger......???
