2001 Explorer EB ATC Blend Door Actuator confusion

[koda2000]

Ok, sorry to bring this up again, but... It's supposed to get into the mid 80's this week in GA and I've decided that I should go ahead and replace my stripped blend door actuator (auto-temp-control/EATC 2001 Explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0L w/rear air).

In redoing my previous research I again find myself looking at this Motorcraft part on PartsGreek. As with my previous research I can't find an actuator that has the identical part number as my old unit. I also see actuators that have, what appears to be, a snap-in tray attached to them, which may be removable, but IDK. I've looked on RockAuto, Advance, Autozone, eBay and Amazon.

The Ford part numbers on the sticker on first actuator shown below read:
F87H-19E694-AB
236 11249122
ATC

The Ford part numbers on the sticker on my old actuator read:
F87H-19E616-AB
242 237002
ATC

If no one and confirm or deny that the below actuator will work, I'm just going to order it and keep my fingers crossed that it will work. If it does I'll be ordering a second one for my 2000 Mountaineer as well.

Motorcraft Air Flap Actuator

Click to Enlarge

Our List Price:$39.33

Quantity:
(7) In Stock
Part Number: 5263-05241519
Notes: HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator -- With Auto Temperature Control
Condition: New
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The other Motorcraft actuator listed on PartsGeek looks very similar but the "Notes" say something different... is there a second blend door actuator in the console for the rear air?

Motorcraft Air Flap Actuator

Click to Enlarge

Our List Price:$56.33

Quantity:
(4) In Stock
Part Number: 5263-05238312
Notes: HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator -- Located on Blower in Console, With Aux Unit.
Condition: New

 

[Epyon969]

F87H-19E694-AB is the correct one.

 

[koda2000]

F87H-19E694-AB is the correct one.

Thank you. I guess the old part number was superseded. I'm not used to seeing genuine Motorcraft parts so relatively inexpensive.

 

[Spudhut]

Them are fun to install....

 

[koda2000]

Them are fun to install....

Only if you plan on reinstalling the rear screw (which I may not bother with). The front 2 screws are easy enough to reinstall, and where is the actuator going to go? I figure gravity is in my favor.

 

[Spudhut]

Only if you plan on reinstalling the rear screw (which I may not bother with). The front 2 screws are easy enough to reinstall, and where is the actuator going to go? I figure gravity is in my favor.

Hah...I have done that a time or two...doesn't the back also 'snap' in place into a vertical rivet? i always try to pick these up from JY when they are easily accessible.

 

[koda2000]

Hah...I have done that a time or two...doesn't the back also 'snap' in place into a vertical rivet? i always try to pick these up from JY when they are easily accessible.

No, the actuator just engages the blend door on the back. I guess Ford eventually figured out that these actuators were a PITA to change, because they later attached them to a tray that appears to just snap into place.

 

[akbossman]

my new one doen't wprk either

2001 Mercuy Mountianer is there a wiring diagram so I can check the swith or ????? I took the old one apart and it worked sand gears were good. thanks

 

[koda2000]

my new one doen't wprk either

2001 Mercuy Mountianer is there a wiring diagram so I can check the swith or ????? I took the old one apart and it worked sand gears were good. thanks

1. Did you purchase the right actuator for your system (automatic or manual)? They look the same externally, but are very different internally.

2. If you have the automatic system (EATC) have you run the EATC diagnostics to reset the EATC and access error codes?

i don't believe a wiring diagram will help you much as I believe all the wires to the blend door actuator go back to the EATC module. If you can hear/feel the actuator moving you likely have a broken blend door. Other than "blending heat" the blend door has nothing to do with the A/C compressor running.

 

[GLOCKer]

the actuator in my 1998 just snaps in place; maybe into a tray on the top of the box. I felt very lucky it didn't bolt down!

 

[66427]

1. Did you purchase the right actuator for your system (automatic or manual)? They look the same externally, but are very different internally.

2. If you have the automatic system (EATC) have you run the EATC diagnostics to reset the EATC and access error codes?

i don't believe a wiring diagram will help you much as I believe all the wires to the blend door actuator go back to the EATC module. If you can hear/feel the actuator moving you likely have a broken blend door. Other than "blending heat" the blend door has nothing to do with the A/C compressor running.

Bumping an old thread...

How does one run the EATC Diagnostic?
Also, hoes one reset error codes? Mine does not show any "errors" it only blows cold.

 

[koda2000]

Yes, I bought the correct actuator for my truck (automatic controls). I ended up buying a Dorman actuator, though I typically don't like Dorman stuff, I found their part description to be the only listing that made it clear whether I was purchasing the automatic version. I've had it installed for maybe 2 years now and it still works fine. The manual and automatic blend door actuators may look identical externally, but they are very different internally and are not interchangeable.

As I recall, many of the replacement actuators often come on a plastic base. IDK if you can install the actuator with the base attached. Maybe you can, but I chose to remove the base. There are 3 screws that hold the actuator to the heater box. The rear one is a ***** to get out and back in. I decided to just use the 2 screws toward the front of the actuator instead of struggling with the rear-most screw. I works fine with only 2 screws.

If you're not getting any diagnostic codes on the EATC screen, it could be that your actuator is not the problem. Another possibility is that your issue is that your blend door is broken. Broken blend doors are pretty common on our trucks. There are various methods to replace the blend door. One requires you to remove your entire dash, the other is to cut a hole in the heater box (there's a writeup on doing this somewhere in the "best threads" section. It's not a pretty solution, but it's much easier that removing/reinstalling the entire dash). Personally I've never had a blend door break, but many here have. I've probably replaced 3 or 4 actuators though (manual and automatic)

If your blend door is okay, with then engine off (and being somewhere quiet) you should be able to hear and feel the small electric motor inside the actuator running.

What I've done to verify that my issue isn't the blend door was to carefully take apart the actuator and remove the crescent shaped gear that attaches to and moves the blend door. Then I take the gear and install it on the blend door's pivot post and rotate the gear back and forth by hand. It should turn maybe 1/3-1/4 of the way and stop. The stop is the blend door sealing off the cold or hot air passage. The gear should move easily and you should feel the blend door hit its limits of its travel in both directions. If you can't engage the blend door, it's broken.

Good luck.

 

[EB4X]

Koda's back ! !

 

[66427]

Yes, I bought the correct actuator for my truck (automatic controls). I ended up buying a Dorman actuator, though I typically don't like Dorman stuff, I found their part description to be the only listing that made it clear whether I was purchasing the automatic version. I've had it installed for maybe 2 years now and it still works fine. The manual and automatic blend door actuators may look identical externally, but they are very different internally and are not interchangeable.

As I recall, many of the replacement actuators often come on a plastic base. IDK if you can install the actuator with the base attached. Maybe you can, but I chose to remove the base. There are 3 screws that hold the actuator to the heater box. The rear one is a ***** to get out and back in. I decided to just use the 2 screws toward the front of the actuator instead of struggling with the rear-most screw. I works fine with only 2 screws.

If you're not getting any diagnostic codes on the EATC screen, it could be that your actuator is not the problem. Another possibility is that your issue is that your blend door is broken. Broken blend doors are pretty common on our trucks. There are various methods to replace the blend door. One requires you to remove your entire dash, the other is to cut a hole in the heater box (there's a writeup on doing this somewhere in the "best threads" section. It's not a pretty solution, but it's much easier that removing/reinstalling the entire dash). Personally I've never had a blend door break, but many here have. I've probably replaced 3 or 4 actuators though (manual and automatic)

If your blend door is okay, with then engine off (and being somewhere quiet) you should be able to hear and feel the small electric motor inside the actuator running.

What I've done to verify that my issue isn't the blend door was to carefully take apart the actuator and remove the crescent shaped gear that attaches to and moves the blend door. Then I take the gear and install it on the blend door's pivot post and rotate the gear back and forth by hand. It should turn maybe 1/3-1/4 of the way and stop. The stop is the blend door sealing off the cold or hot air passage. The gear should move easily and you should feel the blend door hit its limits of its travel in both directions. If you can't engage the blend door, it's broken.

Good luck.

First, thanks for the quick reply.
Second...
If I change it, I will try to replace the back bolt, but I will not obsess over it.
No error codes, but just cold air. Are you saying still could be the actuator? I will look up the hole in the heater box thread. Is there a dash removal thread too...with pics??
So I can get a junk yard actuator, manual or EATC, and take the blend door drive "shaft" off of that to check the door operation. 1/4 turn one way or the other and the door is good? Should move with fingers, or should I need...pliers?

I appreciate your answers, My son is driving the EB now and I cannot have it in pieces and him not have a ride back to college. We need to be able to do this on his weekend trips home. Obviously the actuator itself is a pretty easy fix, anything else is more involved.

 

[mrhoward]

First, thanks for the quick reply.
Second...
If I change it, I will try to replace the back bolt, but I will not obsess over it.
No error codes, but just cold air. Are you saying still could be the actuator? I will look up the hole in the heater box thread. Is there a dash removal thread too...with pics??
So I can get a junk yard actuator, manual or EATC, and take the blend door drive "shaft" off of that to check the door operation. 1/4 turn one way or the other and the door is good? Should move with fingers, or should I need...pliers?

I appreciate your answers, My son is driving the EB now and I cannot have it in pieces and him not have a ride back to college. We need to be able to do this on his weekend trips home. Obviously the actuator itself is a pretty easy fix, anything else is more involved.

Greetings! As for that back bolt (screw): Tie a piece of strong thread to the screw directly under the head. Make sure to tie off the other end to something and give yourself plenty of slack. Then, WHEN you drop the screw behind the heater box, you can easily retrieve it with the thread. Once the screw is in, you can either leave it or break it off near the screw. Might want to do the same with the ratchet/wrench you use so you don't lose that behind the heater box.

 

[mrhoward]

@koda2000 / 66427: I just posted a thread with a question about EATC HERE. If either of you gentlemen have the time, I'm looking to get a pic or description of the location of the cabin temp aspirator connection on the heater box. Hope to hear from you!

 

[koda2000]

Yes, you can get a junk yard actuator and take it apart to remove the blend door crescent shaped gear (it doesn't matter if you find a manual or automatic actuator because the crescent shaped gears are the same). This gear is the only thing needed to test that the blend door's movement is not broken. I've even wired my blend door open using the crescent gear and a piece of bailing wire until I got around to buying/installing a new actuator.

If you try to reinstall the rear-most screw in the blend door actuator odds are very good that you'll drop it behind the heater box and never see it again. I've successfully reinstalled the rear screw on multiple Explorers/Mountaineers, but I've also dropped that screw more than once. I no longer bother with it. Just getting that screw out to begin with is very difficult. I have a special tool I made just for that purpose... a small gear wrench with a gear wrench 1/4" socket adaptor using a cheap ground down 1/4" drive socket (and it's still difficult).