2001 explorer starts and dies. Need help please

[Chaztschida]

So this just started yesterday morning (-5°F) about a 2 weeks ago i changed out the whole thermostat housing and that bottom part of it cant remember what its called "coolant something". Ran perfect. Saturday my gf jumped someones vehicle (no one else would do it cuz it has a computer chip i have no idea) still ran fine. She went to leave for work yesterday morning and it doesnt work. It will start fine and sounds normal but dies in a few seconds maybe like 7 if it just sat for awhile. If i keep it revved it will stay running and drive as long as i never take my foot of the gas. But it makes a sort of electronic whirring noise with the revs and the engine bay starts smoking. (No helper so i cant see from where) i was told fuel pump and it isnt really getting any fuel pressure but i just replaced that a year ago and when it went out then it wouldnt even start so i think its air. and at the same time i replaced the fuel filter, IAC, plugs, wires, coil pack, battery, Camshaft position sensor. I think thats everything i know as of now sorry its so long guys wanted to make sure all info was out right away

 

[XLTrunner]

I'm feeling the cold too, brother. -6 F at our house this morning. This cold can cause a vehicle to make all kinds of weird noises and idle poorly when first started. Sounds like you've got a couple things going on...not the least of which is smoke in the engine bay. The electronic "whirring noise" could be attributed to the power steering pump when it's this cold. They will sometimes whine like crazy...but, will normally go away after a brief period as things loosen up and the engine warms. Can't explain the smoke...unless the pulley (or, one of the other pulleys) is seizing and the belt is slipping? Really need to ask the gf (or, someone else) if they could help you in pinpointing what's going on.

The low idle/stallling can be symptomatic of a vacuum leak..but, my experience with vacuum leaks is the idle is usually erratic. Does it continue once the engine is warm?

 

[Chaztschida]

Thanks for the reply man we NEED this thing running ASAP. It doesnt have a low idle and i cant get it warmed up. It starts up perfect as usual but within a couple seconds it shuts off (all the electronics stay running) i can keep it running with my foot on the gas but thats when it starts smoking and smells like burning fuel (not the smell from the tail pipe though) and i know about power steering whines lol my cars got a PS leak right now. But the whine JUST started on the EX the same time it stopped working. And only does it when im pushing the gas. I thought maybe my IAC died on me but then the smoke and whining sound started when i pushed the gas. None of it adds up

 

[XLTrunner]

Hmmm...a bad IAC valve can cause a whirring noise. I just don't get the burned fuel smell and smoke, though.

 

[Chaztschida]

Alright so the smoke wasnt coming from the engine bay i guess. Its just smoking ALOT from the exhaust (which has leaks) all white smoke so not too worried. Still not staying running tho. Checked the fuel pressure and it just dribbles out of the shrader valve when i push it in. But like i said it run fine if i hold the gas peddle down still so im on the fence about it being the fuel pump. (Which was brand new 2years ago) when it went out last time the truck absolutely would never start just keep cranking. Im stuck between the IAC and the fuel filter.

 

[XLTrunner]

It's not your fuel filter (wish I had a dollar for every time someone installed a new filter thinking it would solve their problem). I doubt it's your fuel pump, either. Of course, the only way to know for sure is to connect a pressure gauge and take some readings. With the smoke issue accounted for, I'd next be looking for the source of the whirring noise that you say began when this idle problem arose. Could still be the IAC, but I'd test/clean it before throwing more money at that. Without the worry of the smoke, can you now keep the engine running long enough to warm it up? If so, will the truck idle on it's own once warmed? Still wonder if you don't have a vacuum leak. Did you remove the upper intake manifold when you swapped out the t-stat housing? If so, did you install new gaskets?

 

[Chaztschida]

Yeah i dont even wanna do the fuel filter man its stupid on these, but its 2 years old and only $12 max so i might just throw it on and see if i get any fuel pressure back. I hear the pump turn on but like i said there is no pressure when i push in the valve. When i fixed it before fuel shot you in the face if you were in front of it. No I didnt have time to actually warm it up today but yeah im thinkin i should be able to.. hopefully take it around the block. Yes i took the intake off but we made sure not to touch the gaskets at all cuz they seem to be brand new, not even dirty at all. We did have a vacuum leak with that crap hose connector for the IAC after that but got it tight and no issues for about 2 weeks then this started and even when it had that leak it would drive about a minute or so before dying. This is instantly after starting.

Oh i almost forgot. Come to think of it im not sure i heard that whirring noise this time it was 10° warmer today tho

 

[XLTrunner]

I would say you should get a good shot of fuel out of the Schrader valve if it hadn't been sitting long. But, I changed out my fuel filter a couple months ago and relieved the fuel pressure like that after it sat overnight and was surprised at how little pressure and fuel came out. Truck started/ran fine...just thought it was overdue for a new filter.

Regarding intake gaskets...they may have looked nice and clean, but rubber takes a set after a short time once torqued down and should always be replaced when you open things up. Same with the IAC, EGR and throttle body gaskets. Have you inspected the various vacuum hoses to see if one came off or split? Thinking the pcv hoses, maybe?

 

[Chaztschida]

I think its my alternator.. i know that doesnt sound right but all the symptoms i have line up with a worn out ALT. And my battery gauge seems low (my gfs daily not mine so idk) Its all over online that they can wear out just enough to not work at idle but still work under higher rpms and if thats happening it cant run the pump hard enough to get pressure. And the ALT. Was the only one of the possible suspects that i havent replaced and its got a junkyard number so i shall get a meter and test my voltage tomorrow

 

[XLTrunner]

I've never experienced a failing alternator affecting the idle on any of my vehicles over the years...but, I suppose it could. Maybe the act of jump-starting another vehicle caused some internal damage. Keep us posted as to what you find out.

 

[Chaztschida]

So i left the battery unhooked last night hooked it up to try to get it to autozone to get the tests done. Started right up and drove around town perfectly fine as if none of this happened. Battery tested 100% and alternator passed (doesnt give any statistics so it could still be on its way out). WtH lol

 

[XLTrunner]

It's a Christmas miracle! Cured itself just before this next snowstorm and subsequent bone-chilling -20 F on Sunday. Think mine is going to sit until it warms up on Tuesday.

 

[koda2000]

From the low temps and the symptoms you've described, I'm wondering if you didn't some some bad gas, or maybe you had some water in the tank. Water is heavier than gasoline, so it sinks to the bottom of the tank (where the fuel pick-up is). Just for giggles through a bottle or two of Dri-Gas in the tank.

I had something very similar happen after I used a storage can that had had diesel fuel in it. There couldn't have been more than an 1/2 ounce of diesel in a 5 gal jug, but it was enough to make my truck run like crap, smoke and not idle until I emptied the tank by driving it. Diesel is also heavier than gasoline, so it sank to the bottom of the tank overnight. It will temporarily mix with gasoline, so it ran okay after driving it a bit, but the next morning it would run like crap again, smoke and not idle again. I learned my lesson.

 

[Chaztschida]

Aaaand its doing it again.. ran just fine that day after i unhooked the battery overnight left it all hooked up overnight after it started working the very next morning its right back at it again.. kind of a good news bad news deal. Good news-Clearly its something messin with the computer (throwin a code or whatever it may be) and not a major engine component failure since it ran as well as ever after unhooking the battery for a night. Bad news-i still have no idea what the problem is lol

 

[swshawaii]

Clearly its something messin with the computer (throwin a code or whatever it may be) and not a major engine component failure since it ran as well as ever after unhooking the battery for a night.

Bad news-i still have no idea what the problem is lol

Unless I missed it in 14 posts, scanning for trouble codes was never mentioned.

If you don't enjoy guessing and throwing more parts at it, scan for stored DTC's.

 

[Chaztschida]

So i had to get it to autozone to get it tested again. Didnt even wanna start today (i did notice when i turned the key the battery gauge was barely moving up) but when it did i kept it revved to 2000 and every couple seconds i pushed it up after a couple minutes it didnt wanna die anymore it stayed idling at about 500 so i drove to autozone and by the time i got there it was completely normal. Battery and alternator passed tests again and he says there are no codes thrown... soo im back to thinking my alternator is just failing and doesnt wanna work in the cold..but that doesnt really explain why it would run just fine after leaving the battery unhooked overnight

 

[koda2000]

You realize that if there were any DTC's being thrown, disconnecting the battery clears them.

If when you turn the key the engine turns over at normal cranking speed, the alternator and battery aren't your problem.

 

[swshawaii]

So i left the battery unhooked last night hooked it up to try to get it to autozone to get the tests done.

^ Oops, missed that.

You realize that if there were any DTC's being thrown, disconnecting the battery clears them.

Good catch Koda.

 

[Macgiobuin]

Take out the Idle Air Control Valve and buy a can of sea foam. Cut the top off a soda can and put the IAC in it. Pour the sea foam into the can to the top. Let it sit over night. Take the IAC out, wash it all off with water, jigger the plunger to see that it moves freely. Reinstall it. Try it, this has worked alot for several of my ford vehicles.

 

[swshawaii]

^

and at the same time i replaced the fuel filter, IAC, plugs, wires, coil pack, battery, Camshaft position sensor.{/QUOTE]