Negative on the external pump. Can't find one affordable that has spec PSI. All the autoparts stores here have in stock is externals meant for low pressure carburetor application (4-9PSI), and the only externals that could supply the PSI would have to be special order, and cost more than just getting the aftermarket OEM compatible in-tank version anyway.
So, I can do the cheapest OEM in tank pump replacement from OReilly for about $99, or go to a junk yard and try to find a compatible and talk them out of it for $25-$30. Either way, looks like I'm having to go into the tank and pull the old one.
More trouble shooting last night...Checked inertia switch again for intermittent contacts. The center pin has continuity with one on the side when it is working, and continuity to the other side when tripped, so that must be right. I jumpered the two contacts on the harness to just by-pass inertia switch anyway and make sure, but still no pump action. I went beating on the bottom rear of the tank near the indention where the pump strainer is, and low and behold the pump started spinning and whirring again, but it locks up again in a minute. So, I know for sure it's an intermittent pump and nothing I can do on the outside will save it. I have to dig it out. Sucks ass!
I guess I'll get a sawzall and go stabbing around over the wheel well and hope I get the right place. ;-)
Interestingly, since this no-start fuel pump failure happened a few days ago, my overdrive light also blinks when I do get the engine to fire and run for any length of time. I guess I'm looking at a transmission sensor or other serious failure at the same time. Great! That's all I need. I can't see the two being related events unless it's a PCM issue, and that's pretty bad.
To move the truck to a place it wouldn't get towed, there was enough fuel pressure from the test port that I attached a piece of old vacuum line with a fuel pressure regulator type rubber base that fit over the test port perfect. I attached a small diameter surgical hose over that, and ran it to the intake boot before the throttle body. I made a small incision and inserted the hose, and that gave enough fuel being sucking into the throttle plate that I was able to drive short distance just above idle. I did this once on an old 1977 Toyota Corona when the mechanical fuel pump failed and nobody had that thing available. I had room for a 1 gallon can under the hood, and I ran surgical tube from there into a vacuum line in the carb. Drove it like that for months, but the mileage was ****-ey.
