2001 Sport "Tadpole" | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2001 Sport "Tadpole"

Just go with a stock TC. Why bypass the tranny cooler in the radiator? Just add the external cooler to it and you have two. Sounds like you have loss of fluid pressure due to old gaskets and seals or you are getting torque converter slip which will heat your fluid up hot. 5r55e are about the easiest to rebuild. Good tough transmission. I seen a bunch the OD planet and sprag tear up so don't be surprised if they need replaced. If the kit didn't have it get a bushing kit. You'll need the one for the pump. It has one speed sensor inside, replace it while they are in there. Its your only chance. If it's in the shop they'll take care of you.
 



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Just go with a stock TC. Why bypass the tranny cooler in the radiator? Just add the external cooler to it and you have two. Sounds like you have loss of fluid pressure due to old gaskets and seals or you are getting torque converter slip which will heat your fluid up hot. 5r55e are about the easiest to rebuild. Good tough transmission. I seen a bunch the OD planet and sprag tear up so don't be surprised if they need replaced. If the kit didn't have it get a bushing kit. You'll need the one for the pump. It has one speed sensor inside, replace it while they are in there. Its your only chance. If it's in the shop they'll take care of you.
You bypass the radiator so the 200 degree coolant doesn't heat the fluid. The radiator exchanger is actually a warmer for the fluid. You want trans fluid temps way below coolant temp.
 






Turdle, you run circles around me on automotive knowledge but I have to disagree with you on this one...
"The cooler for the automatic transmissions are placed inside the radiator, the reason behind this is the antifreeze provides the perfect environment. It warms the transmission up when it’s cold and keeps it from getting too hot in extreme heat.

An auxiliary cooler is a completely separate transmission cooler that is typically mounted somewhere in the front of the AC condenser. While these coolers are helpful they are not quit as effective as the coolers that are mounted inside the radiator. The reason? The auxiliary cooler is cooled by air flow while the cooler inside the radiator is surrounded by antifreeze which is a controlled environment.

For this reason we recommend never eliminating the cooler inside the radiator. If you want to increase cooling capacity we recommend adding an auxiliary cooler. This way the transmission is being cooled by two different coolers; one with antifreeze and one through air flow."
 






I'm bypassing because an external will run lower temps than the radiator. I did this on my trans am and the temps stayed around 140, instead of 195-220. Plus, the radiator has had that nasty fluid and junk in it and is near impossible to clean out. It already has a dual cooler system. I am buying a new external that is bigger. The engine fan will fonangood job of bringing air thru and if it doesn't I can out a small pusher on it. Hayden also has a cooler that has a cold weather bypass to help it warm up to temp.
 






Whats up guys.
Been gone from here for a while, but "I'm back in the saddle agaaain". I traded a junk XJ for a pretty darn clean 01 sport. No chain rattle, or anything. The oil pressure gauge was lazy for a while, but I think its just the sender, I hope. The catch is, the thing only goes forward, but in every gear position. I'm still playing with it and have another project that I need to finish before I dig too deep into this one. Two possible causes from what I've been reading are:

1. The forward drum steels welded themselves together or,
2. The valvebody has some issues that a sonnax kit will hopefully address.

The fluid is still pretty pink, not brown and might be a tad low. I didn't check it fully warm though. It drives around pretty good, but missed a gear a couple times. It would try to shift but nothing was there and it would rev. I let off, and it went in and stayed in. I tried out the 4wd and it got angry and started to slip and felt lazy and the temps jumped from 170 to 181 very quickly. I pulled over and got it out of 4wd and it went back to normal.

View attachment 424433 View attachment 424434 View attachment 424435 View attachment 424436 View attachment 424437 View attachment 424438 View attachment 424439
Always check quantity and quality AND service the trans!
 






I'm bypassing because an external will run lower temps than the radiator. I did this on my trans am and the temps stayed around 140, instead of 195-220. Plus, the radiator has had that nasty fluid and junk in it and is near impossible to clean out. It already has a dual cooler system. I am buying a new external that is bigger. The engine fan will fonangood job of bringing air thru and if it doesn't I can out a small pusher on it. Hayden also has a cooler that has a cold weather bypass to help it warm up to temp.
Good, an external cooler should not need to function in very cold months. Transmissions do NOT generate near the heat an internal combustion engine does and is designed to operate within a temp range, just as the engine does.
 






Your transmission should already have a thermostat built into it. No need to add redundant failure points.
 






Your transmission should already have a thermostat built into it. No need to add redundant failure points.
That's good to know actually. I just went with a stock replacement that will bolt up.
 






we can argue this all day
it has been proven on many Ranger forums over the years
the Fluid to FLUID cooler inside the radiator was good idea, poor implementation
It is too small to be an effective cooler
So it only really acts as a "warmer"
acting to warm up the trans fluid bringing it near water temps

PLUS if it fails you introduce water into your transmission = Kablooey
As these trucks get older more of these radiators actually do fail.
I lost one 4r70w due to this internal cooler developing a leak. After a mixing water with mercon in the radiator the trans was doomed

So we bypass the TINY fluid to fluid cooler and run two aux coolers this WILL RESULT in cooler trans temperatures
PROVEN

To each his own
I Bypass that thing every build
If it was about 5 times the size it would have made an excellent cooler as well as warmer, as fluid to fluid coolers are far more efficient then air/fluid coolers
the stock one SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!! Its tiny like 2" x 5"
 






And, if you bypass it with a new radiator, you can save the exchanger ports for making espresso , or showering in remote locations. Think outta the box on this one.
 






And, if you bypass it with a new radiator, you can save the exchanger ports for making espresso , or showering in remote locations. Think outta the box on this one.
Worlds most remote heated bidet. Front mount receiver……
 












I highly recommend a scald guard valve. Seriously though, you could convert a cheap Amazon shower enclosure, and mount it to a front recover and have it hold the valves and pump. Large igloo cooler. Run it in a recirculate fashion, and use a 3 way valve and a thermostat to cycle through the core to maintain a constant temp. Could have a shower for for royalty anywhere for a few hundred.
 






Post number 4

 






Got a little more tinkering today and installed the new trans cooler. It is an aftermarket no name unit from rock auto that was supposed to be bolt in, and would have been...kinda. It would have sat lower and not in the direct airflow path. So updated the bracketery and now it sits higher. I also cut the cooler lines and bypassed the radiator. Pictures show how it would have sat without the bracket, and how it sits now with the factory bracket cut and pasted to the new cooler.

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Got another update. Trans is rebuilt and installed. Houston, we have reverse! I could not find the gasket that goes from the adapter to the Tcase. It's not the adapter gasket that every parts store carries either. I finally found it to be called the extension housing gasket (even though that's not what it is) and rock auto has it under a Ranger, but not the Explorer. Autozone and Napa didnt carry it, and I didnt want to wait again for a gasket. I cleaned up the surfaces and used the old gasket and a little silicone where it got boogered when I pulled it apart.

Got to test drive it around the neighborhood a little bit yesterday. I picked up some cheap D window steelies and ordered some 33s. I'm getting Duratracs...not my first choice because of inherent weak sidewalls, but couldn't pass on the price. My wife will be driving it quite a bit also and the snow traction those provide will be very welcome over a traditional MT.

Next up is an AAL I think and a TT and probably a little trimming once I get those 33s on. Then of course an alignment.
 



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33s are on. Only minor trimming was needed. Still awaiting the shackles I ordered. I opted for those first then if needed I'll get another leaf.
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