2002 150k miles A/C replacement

[Patrick Lao]

My AC was looked at by a decent mechanic and couldn't find any leaks and he charged it up and it was great for a fews drives but then it died again. I've since recharged the AC on my own for two summers and it blows Kool enough to survive but doesn't thrive. I want to fix it for good though.

If I bought a kit and replaced compressor w/clutch, drier, expansion device, oil & o-rings what are the chances I would have a kick ass AC again?

 

[FordFlintrock]

If I bought a kit and replaced compressor w/clutch, drier, expansion device, oil & o-rings what are the chances I would have a kick ass AC again?

Two chances, slim and none at all,,,,,,,,,,,,, jokingly. A kit to me would include a condenser which would increase your odds two fold. Do you have rear air? If so check those lines underneath running to it for oil and the rear evaporator for trace oil. A good first check is the accumulator if it has the plastic housing encasing it. They rot the base of accumulator from outside in. One must first make the effort to try and find the leak and takes specialized tools, equipment and knowledge. First off make sure there is dye in the system which mixes with the oil. Where you see trace oil on the components/couplings is a refrigerant leak. A black light is useful in finding that trace oil and also in condensate from evaporators. An electronic refrigerant sniffer is another tool but must be used in zero wind conditions. There is BigBlu micro leak bubble detector in place of the old soapy water. Then the big gun comes out pressurized nitrogen in the system on top of a three oz. charge of refrigerant again looking for bubbles or a hit with the sniffer, this by the way being de minimis for rule sake.
Some leaks cannot be found due to component accessability and pressures required then the part replacement game begins mainly condensers, evaporators and expansion blocks.

 

[Patrick Lao]

Two chances, slim and none at all,,,,,,,,,,,,, jokingly. A kit to me would include a condenser which would increase your odds two fold. Do you have rear air? If so check those lines underneath running to it for oil and the rear evaporator for trace oil. A good first check is the accumulator if it has the plastic housing encasing it. They rot the base of accumulator from outside in. One must first make the effort to try and find the leak and takes specialized tools, equipment and knowledge. First off make sure there is dye in the system which mixes with the oil. Where you see trace oil on the components/couplings is a refrigerant leak. A black light is useful in finding that trace oil and also in condensate from evaporators. An electronic refrigerant sniffer is another tool but must be used in zero wind conditions. There is BigBlu micro leak bubble detector in place of the old soapy water. Then the big gun comes out pressurized nitrogen in the system on top of a three oz. charge of refrigerant again looking for bubbles or a hit with the sniffer, this by the way being de minimis for rule sake.
Some leaks cannot be found due to component accessability and pressures required then the part replacement game begins mainly condensers, evaporators and expansion blocks.

Thank you for the detailed reply.

I do have a rear vent for the back seat.

Also I looked up some of these items and it seems way cheaper than taking it in which looks like could be $1000 which I really don't have.

I will get some dye into the system and start to look around for leaks and get back to you.

 

[Squirrelmaster]

I'm a bit late to chime in, but before replacing parts it is important to validate your high- and low-side pressures with a manifold gauge setup (you rent them from auto parts stores, but Harbor Freight has them pretty cheap too). Once you know what your pressures are, you can start determining what issues may be present like a bad compressor or clogged condenser/restriction orifice. Here is a nice web reference for using the manifold gauges for troubleshooting: AC pressure gauge readings

I just went through this process on my recently-acquired '99 Sport, which ended up having both a partially-clogged condenser and a fully-clogged restriction orifice and bad compressor due to rust from moisture intrusion. I replaced the dryer, compressor, condenser and restriction orifice (and rolled the dice on reusing the existing evaporator) and all is well.

 

[mountaineer2004]

My a/c died a while back and I just let it be. Too much money for too little gain. I'm using my money now strictly for the functional items, like my RF and LR cv axle assemblies I'm getting replaced tomorrow. I've adopted a new philosophy in my 60s...live simply to simply live.