2002 4.0 XLS 4.0 O/D off and check engine soon lights came on yesterday | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2002 4.0 XLS 4.0 O/D off and check engine soon lights came on yesterday

bcolins

Active Member
Joined
August 21, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Cedar Park (Austin) Tejas
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLS 4.0 4x4
Yesterday, noticed that both my "Check Engine Soon" and "O/D off" lights were on. Other than the clunky shifts that I have always had since buying the truck 6 mos ago,.....everthing seemed OK. When I pushed the O/D button, I didn't notice any change in engine RPMs, so assuming OD was not engaging. Pulled over, shut the truck off and restarted. OD light now off, but check engine light still on, began driving and the OD light did come back on.

Got to my destination, parked the truck. 2 hours later, back in the truck, and no lights at all,.................for a while. Both lights eventually came back on.

I've done a search here, read several threads so far all on older Explorers with fixes all over the map from a simple battery disconnect and reconnect after a few minutes to reset the computer,.........to speed sensor replacement, Throttle position sensor replacement, and complete transmission replacement.

Any suggestions?

Brian in Austin
 



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I have similar symptoms on my 2004 Explorer currently, and had the O/D light and check engine light a couple years ago. A couple years ago I had to get a full rebuild of my transmission - there were indeed many problems and most of the hard parts got replaced.

I just posted a new thread a couple days ago but haven't gotten any responses yet:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=377035

Do you have access to a code scanner? Take it to O'Reilly Auto where they will get the codes for you at no charge if not - or somewhere similar that doesn't charge for it, pull the codes and let us know.

I've read many, many threads on here and elsewhere and, while certainly no transmission expert will be happy to point you to the threads that seem the most relevant to your particular problem and/or share what knowledge I do have.

Besides the hard shifting are there any other symptoms? Slipping? High RPMs before shifting to certain gears (shift flare)? How many miles on the vehicle?
 












just put my scanner on it. Got a P0775 DTC code (malfunction of Sol B). Guessing that's referring to a shift solenoid. I just cleared all the codes out, and also disconnected the battery for a half hour. Going back out shortly to reconnect the battery and take a short drive and see what happens.

The truck has 153,000 on it. I bought it about 1500 miles (6 months) ago. Shifts have always been clunky and a bit unpredictable,...but I have read that this is fairly common on this series of Explorer (2002 XLS 4.0 4x4)

Brian in Austin
 






Well, it's common because the transmissions in Explorers in these years are not very long lasting.

I have the same code right now P0775. I've done a little research re replacing the solenoid block - I'll send links later when I'm home. I've also read that for some folks this particular code was thrown when it was not the solenoid block, rather, a cracked servo piston.

Let's keep in touch on this one... same code, somewhat similar symptoms. Insights and discoveries between us would be great.

I think I'm going to start by doing a band adjustment and see if it corrects the problem.

Cheers
Jim
 






Just got back from a 5 mile drive and no blinking lights. trans seems to be taking longer than it used to to make the 1-2 shift, doesn't quite flare of sound like its slipping,.....but its close,........with steady throttle, the 1-2 shift takes about 2-4 seconds,........then it abruply clunks into 3rd gear,.....almost before its done with the 1-2 shift.

Does this sound anything like what you have going on?

Brian Collins

Are the bands adjusted internally,...or is there some way to externally adjust them?
 






I also have same code on my 03 Mountaineer 4.6 AWD, I got trans flushed, my code reader said one of the fixes may be clean fluid but I didn't think that would do the trick. And unfortunately I was correct so just driving it until it goes or until I can figure something out, any thing someone can find to remedy this without the high price tag of rebuilt trans would be excellent. my trans is 5R55s so another question is will a mustang trans work
 






Well, it's common because the transmissions in Explorers in these years are not very long lasting.

I have the same code right now P0775. I've done a little research re replacing the solenoid block - I'll send links later when I'm home. I've also read that for some folks this particular code was thrown when it was not the solenoid block, rather, a cracked servo piston.

Let's keep in touch on this one... same code, somewhat similar symptoms. Insights and discoveries between us would be great.

I think I'm going to start by doing a band adjustment and see if it corrects the problem.

Cheers
Jim

Here's a link to a Servo Bore "FIX" kit. $199. Might be a solution for some of us.

http://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/

Here is a description of the symptoms from their "History" page.


5R55W AND 5R55S TRANSMITION FIX Patent Pending Patent Application 61/431,988

We have instructions and fixes that were developed after plenty of research, design, and reasoning into the following issues with the Ford/Mercury Mountaineer 5R55W and other type transmissions with the worn bore issue.

Symptoms of original 5R55W Transmission 2002 Mercury Mountaineer, 4.6L V8, All Wheel Drive, 104,000 miles after one rebuild around 76,000 miles for broken bands:

1. Transmission would not hold in OD/5th gear. It gradually gets worse. Eventually the transmission would not shift back into OD unless you were going down an incline. It would shift out of OD after any sign of load especially after the transmission warms up.
2. Transmission would not shift out of 1st gear into the intermediate range. The engine would redline and not shift unless you let up on the accelerator. It would shift from 1st to 2nd if you accelerated very slowly.
3. A combination of one and or two would produce a flashing OD light and eventually give you a service engine soon light.
4. Codes returned for the described situation P0775 Pressure Control Solenoid B Circuit Malfunction.

Things Checked and done prior to final fix:

1. All transmission solenoids and sensors were checked for the proper resistance. All checked OK.
2. Did a tune-up on the engine. No difference was noticed.
3. Replaced the throttle position sensor. No difference was noticed.
4. Had the Ford dealer check out the transmission. Recommendation was a full rebuild or a replacement with a rebuild at a cost of around $2,600 to $3,100.
5. Discussed with the Ford technician what he thought the issue was, and he suggested that the OD and Intermediate servo bores were wore and needed to be bored out, reamed, and sleeved. This is what got me looking into a design that would fix this much easier and much more cost effective that I could do myself, without dropping the transmission.

After analysis, we concluded that the technician’s diagnosis was probably correct. It fit the symptoms. The two servos work the following way: There is a port in the transmission bore for each that feeds fluid into a cross bore in the servo shaft and up through a counter bore in the shaft to the back side of the piston of each. The pistons have seals that allow pressure to build up between the sealed servo cover and the piston. The shafts for the servos are hardened (very hard!) steel going through a machined aluminum bore in the transmission case (brilliant design!). This gives you a situation of a very hard metal, rubbing against softer aluminum, so the aluminum wears. This causes two things. When the transmission is trying to pump fluid between the cover and the piston, it also pumps fluid on the opposite side of the piston through the increased clearances, so those forces are fighting themselves. Also, the transmission bypasses some of the fluid and, therefore, pressure into the area where the bands are located. So what you have is less pressure available because of the bypass, and a reduced pressure on the bands due to fluid pressure building up on both sides of the piston.

The Solution is to Machine O-Ring Grooves into the servo rods.

We have for sale here and on Ebay, instructions and/or instructions with machined servos including the o-rings for the 5R55W/N/S/E transmissions. With the parts and instructions, you can replace the servos in two to four hours depending on what tools and equipment you have available. We have had this fix in a Mountaineer for 45,000 miles now with no problems whatsoever. We have had people put these in with 160,000 miles and it fixed the problems. The instructions will give you the tricks to get the job done correctly and quickly, without dropping the transmission. The instructions include recommended tools, pictures, and step-by-step instructions. Boring the housing will cost you $400-$500 in tools, and lot more work.

NOTE: One thing that is recommended is to do a band adjustment on your vehicle to make sure you do not have a broken or excessively worn band. Also if you can do the adjustment and have similiar adjustment left on the OD as is left on the IM the bands most likely are not worn bad enough that they need to be replaced.

Please note that this information is proprietary and should not be copied or disseminated without my expressed and written permission. PATENT PENDING

AJ1E Superior Solutions, LLC

















Brian
 






Here's the link to a nice post on this forum complete with good photos for a solenoid block replacement. This is on a 5R55W, but I'm supposing that it's essentially the same deal on a 5R55S which is what I have.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164055

I've also posted a very complete PDF file with details on the 5R55W/S here:
http://www.iontech.org/DTC/5r55w-complete.pdf -- another gem that I found while searching this forum.

My symptoms are fairly mild, but similar to what you've described. Shift flare from gear 1-2... on a flat, accelerating normally, it shifts at about 3100 rpm, however, going up a hill from stop position it doesn't shift until about 4000 rpm. At 3100 rpm the shift is immediate and really quite smooth, though the next shift from 2-3 occurs almost immediately thereafter. When it shifts at about 4000 rpm it's a bit of a harder shift and again is immediately followed by a smoother 2-3 shift. I'm not experiencing issues with it going into overdrive on the freeway.

I had a rebuild 2 years ago, as I said. At that time I was getting P0733 and P0734. Shifting between 2 and 3rd was slipping and I was getting an increasing occurance of gear slippage while freeway driving. It was bad. Here's the complete list of what was done:
new filter w/.400 inlet
3 new bands
replaced torque converter with a rebuilt torque converter
new front seal 56034
new D46580A OD Planet
new input shaft
new flow control valve 136502
new sleeve T9213/T9213A

Notice, here, that the Solenoid block was not replaced and there is no mention of servo pistons. So, I think that given that it was only 30k miles ago, all of the above is probably in good shape and I can be pretty assured that my fluid is in good shape. This leaves the solenoid block and/or servo piston. As I said, I'm going to try adjusting the bands first.

Band adjustment from what I've read and seen in photos is accomplished with adjuster nuts on the outside of the transmission. It consists of a lock nut which you loosen and then adjust the outer adjuster nut. From what I read, correct default tension is accomplished by loosening the lock nut, tightening the adjuster nut all the way down, and then backing off 2 turns, followed by tightening the lock nut again.

I'll be doing this on the weekend since I work/commute during the week and don't want to do it in the cold/dark.

Hope this helps.
 






I did just find reference to band adjustment on the Servo-Bore fix page,...with pics.

Let me know how it works out.

Brian
 






Thank you for info, I'm curious to see how this pans out. I've been on the solenoid block change sites and worried it's more than that.My vehicle just takes that 1st to 2nd shift either hard or you have to let up for it to shift. Still wondering if Mustang 5r55s is the same or the 5r55e would work. Again thanks.
 






I just got back from a reputable transmission shop where the owner test drove the vehicle and pulled codes. Oddly, there were two codes in addition that did not come up with my scanning software - he said it's because his $5,000 scanner has a Ford-specific mode on it. Anyways, 2 more codes and good information:
P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P0735 - Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio

These codes make sense since the same servo controls 1-to-2 and gear 5 (overdrive). Also, combined with the description of P0775 - pressure control solenoid "b" makes even more sense, since a bad servo piston bore will cause pressure loss resulting a shift flare from 1-2 or a complete skipping of this shift up around 4k rpm, going straight from gear 1 to 3, which the mechanic observed when he started up a hill from a stop position.

He said the P0775 gets thrown as well but the first two codes are the most telling. And, after drive testing it said he was 98-99% certain that it is the servo piston, because he had just done the exact same work on the same transmission twice this past week. He felt quite certain that it is not the solenoid block.

Air testing the blow-in passage of the overdrive band would confirm this with certainty.

Having the shop do the work would be labor intensive and after sleeving the servo cylinder with bronze, new fluid, gaskets and tax it would be about $1,000.

He also said the following:
** driving it until I can get it fixed -- go easy on it, let up on the gas a bit to allow it to shift from 1-2, because this issue will eat up the band.
** adjusting the band is a bad idea, as it would potentially (likely) cause more damage.

All that said, I'm going to read up on the O-Ring fix kit and consider doing the work. I'm on the fence a bit though, I'd need to buy some tools that I don't have, and for the long haul it would be really nice to have bronze sleeved servo bores rather than o-rings that simply are not going to last as long and may just be a recurring issue in a couple or three years... $1,000 starts to not sound so bad vs. $200 for the kit, additional tool costs, and doing the work.

EDIT: I'd recommend you take your vehicle to a reputable transmission shop and have them pull the codes - any good shop will test drive it and pull codes at no cost. The P0775 is way to general - the other two codes the shop acquired, and an experienced rebuilder test driving it, were the key to really diagnosing this.

Cheers
Jim
 






J speaker....have you made any progress?

Brian
 






took vehicle to Ford dealer, believe it or not, they said it was cracked servo so they replaced it and the solenoid block. All the other Trans shops wanted $ 2,500 to $ 3,600 to fix it. Dealer only charged $ 1,300. I still can't believe it, but it is working properly.
 






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