That's what it is doing. Sounds like a rod is hitting the motor. It was immediately parked. It had a very little knock before. But now it it massive. I was going to tinker with tearing the engine down just for some experience and possibly fix the issue if I can. But, need maybe like a step by step guide if you or anyone may lead me in the right direction.
@Safeauto101
Unless you have considerable mechanical experience of some kind, it should not be expected to be instantly gained by dissecting an engine, IMO. OTOH, if you are mechanically inclined, the challenge is tempting. It certainly was for me, as a teen-ager! Long ago, but the basics of cylinder block with pistons, crankshaft and bearings has not changed.
To start, I would get under the engine with it running, and listen closely under the oil pan. A failed bearing noise will come through that pan very audibly, maybe even enough to determine just where, approximately, the noise is being made. IF it's a bearing failure. Assuming the knock is there, I would remove the oil pan, and examine the rod bearings one by one. Removing each rod bearing cap is a relatively easy process. If very bad, there may be evidence of heat, discoloration of the bearing cap. If so, remove that one first. If the bearing insert is "pounded out", that will be pretty obvious. Look closely at the journal, for scoring or any other imperfection. Sometimes, a failed bearing caught early enough, allows re-use of the crankshaft. Failing to find rod bearing trouble, inspect the main bearings, one by one. If inspection of both rods and mains fails to reveal a cause for knocking, get some Plasti-Gage material and check each bearing's clearance. One may have excessive clearance, and not be visible to the eye as damage.
If it's decided the knock is not bearing-related, deeper inspection is needed. Possibility exists that the noise is valve-train related. Does the engine blow any smoke out of the tailpipe? Do the "matchbook test", suspend an empty paper matchbook over the end of the tailpipe with engine idling. If it alternately gets "sucked" against the opening, there is likely exhaust valve trouble.
As you can see, a good degree of the analysis of trouble-shooting involves detective work first. You might consider getting a tutorial of some kind outlining general engine rebuilding. Possession of a Ford Shop Manual for the vehicle worked on is a must, in my shop. Next steps will depend on your findings. imp
