2002 4.6L V8 Eddie Baur Explorer dies at Idle

[Scott2008]

I've been having problems with my X dying at idle. When I step on the gas it runs fine. It does it the worst after it has warmed up. When I come to a stop light it'll try to rev up, then in many cases die. I can step on the gas to keep it going.

Here's what I know:
*No check engine light is on
*I replaced the IAC module and there was no change
*I replaced the fuel filter and no change
*I replaced the spark plugs and then the following:

1) Black residue on the plugs (perhaps it's running too rich) if so, why?
2) After new plugs are installed, it seemed to help... it has not died as often but every now and then it start trying to rev up during idle

Any ideas how to troubleshoot this?

I posted a link in the 2002 up section and got a few tips but thought someone here might be able to help

Here's the link:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1861523#post1861523

Thanks!

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

that sux bout ur x

 

[Scott2008]

OK, here's a turn for the worse!

I pushed the 4X4 button as I was going up this drive way. Suddenly, I gave the car gas but could not get any RPM's to go up... it felt like it wasn't getting any gas. I turned it off let it sit a minute then turned it on. It ran OK, then did the same thing a couple minutes later. After doing this a few times, on my way home suddenly THE CHECK TRANSMISSION indicator came on and my O/D light is flashing...COULD this be the same issue or something completely different?

The good news is I have a drive train warranty from the place I got it from for the first 100,000 miles... I am definately taking it in now, but am wondering if the transmission could cause this idling thing?

 

[96eb96]

Did you ever use an oiled performance filter? They tend to foul MAF sensors.

Unplug your MAF sensor and see what happens. If there is any change I would try cleaning it. They sell a special cleaner at the big box part stores for around $4 which is made for the job.

 

[davesexplorer]

Throttle body/TPS issue?

edit: nm see the o/d flashing, thats not good...

 

[r.w.hoogsteen]

OK, here's a turn for the worse!

I pushed the 4X4 button as I was going up this drive way. Suddenly, I gave the car gas but could not get any RPM's to go up... it felt like it wasn't getting any gas. I turned it off let it sit a minute then turned it on. It ran OK, then did the same thing a couple minutes later. After doing this a few times, on my way home suddenly THE CHECK TRANSMISSION indicator came on and my O/D light is flashing...COULD this be the same issue or something completely different?

Hi Scott, have the exact same problem, first the idle problem, then the o/d flashing. Did you find the answer? Dont want to spent a fortune.

 

[bmx045]

during a slip condition, the accelerator will be disabled and the traction system takes over (likely when you were in 2wd and slipping then switched to 4wd the delay will occur as the system gets adequated to the wheel slip). I think disabling tc will override this.


about the idle- seeing that it only ocurrs at idle I would suggest a fuel delivery issue, though you already replaced the fuel filter, I wonder if the fuel pump is okay? hmm go to autozone and get the codes read, there still might be codes even though the CEL isnt on.

 

[rrwright]

idling problem

forgive my attempt at helping and not knowing the names of parts. But, I was just having this problem and tried all of the above and it turned out to be a hose leak (some hose that I think was located near IAC valve or connected to the workings of it in some way). It's a part that has to be ordered, so they patched mine with tape until the part comes in and it is working fine. They found it by somehow spraying something and waiting to see where the leak was. Sorry that is so cryptic, but if you know about cars, you might be able to decipher what I am trying to explain.

 

[blkhwkns]

Idle prob: You most likely have a vaccume leak. When you have a vaccume the pcm reads air intake volume at the Mass Air Flow, but reading o2's with a lean conditon so it trys to compensate by adding fuel ( running rich...Black residue on the plugs...) this accurance is called "fuel trim". You vaccume leak is going to be after the mass, most likely a vaccume line or one something of the sort. Look at the throttle body and look at every rubber host going to it trace them back, also look at the intake manifold and do the same you may find a hose off or loose this will be your leak. Your "cel" .... Quick Hijack: I'm assuming you mean "Check Engine Light" sorry but my years of schooling and wrenching make me.... The correct term is "MIL" Malfunction Indicator Lamp. anyway you "MIL" code will be PO171, PO174 which are system lean bank one and two. start there and see if you have a vaccume leak this will cause your problem and is hopefully and easy fix for you.

Trans problem: The "OD" light will flash for many reason but first thing, Have you checked the fluid level? With a major vaccume leak the fuel strategies are all messed up and putting it in gear loads you already confused system so try to solve the major issue first and fix the idle/ running condition first then if there not related your trans will act up. When you are adding throtle to an engin under load with a vaccume leak it will give you the give gas and no go condition, hopefully you only have a vaccume leak and no big deal. Good luck!

 

[asymsynap]

Similar problem

I had a similar problem last summer, while I was on vacation. I had been on the highway for about 4 hours towing my boat, when increasingly the accelerator was become less responsive. After about 40 minutes, accelerating caused the engine to die. I let the car cool for 5 minutes and it operated all right for about 15 minutes, then died on acceleration again. I had reached my destination, but the Explorer would idle fine at start, would die on acceleration, and when just idling, would die after about 5 minutes. So I let it cool overnight. The next day was the same thing. The following day it started and ran fine and I haven't had a problem with it since, including the drive home towing the boat.

I suspect, judging from blkhwkn's post that maybe there is a vacuum problem that only becomes a real problem under sever heat. The strange thing is how it completely corrected itself, especially when the first overnight cool-down didn't help. It may have been the altitude change (up about 3,000 feet) and extreme heat (about 110 degrees).

I would love to figure it out for peace of mind, but the big problem is that its operating fine now. If that can be considered a problem.

 

[limited4x494]

try cleaning the MAFS. with MAF cleaner