2002 Driver Door Lock Actuator Unlocks - Doesn't Lock - Has Power

[HELMUT RONER]

New gremlin started acting up yesterday. Door lock isn't locking. I have to push it down. It still gets power. I put my fingertip on it and can feel it wants to go down, but it won't. Any other brand of actuator that isn't Ford or Motorcraft that is reliable?

Didn't search, yet, as I'm typing from cell phone.

 

[swshawaii]

From what I've seen, ALL actuators are made by one manufacturer and are the same. Only difference are the brackets and latch rods depending on which door. Replaced both fronts and driver's rear in the last two years. Would have bought the cheapest available had I known. Remove window channel, disconnect actuator wire connector, pry actuator from factory bracket, replace actuator in factory bracket, done. Latch rods must be removable and not permanently crimped to the actuator like some earlier ST rear doors.

Door Lock Actuator Motors Identical
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426643

 

[HELMUT RONER]

Okay. Now at a desktop from school. Was just checking rockauto. Taking your word on these things all being made by the same company, whoever that may be, there's this one currently at $16ea.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2588572&cc=1385355&jsn=343

Part # FO1314104

Does that one appear to have the correct rods to work in the Sport Trac?

 

[swshawaii]

If that pic is accurate, the first two actuators on the RA page won't work.

See my link above and compare pics to RockAuto's by clicking INFO.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...actuator,13257?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+/

 

[swshawaii]

Baffled by the actuator you linked, even the electrical connector is a different shape from all the others. :scratch:

 

[swshawaii]

Either of these should work for the front doors if your latch rods are detachable. Reuse old brackets and latch rods.

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/RWM522001/RWM522001_0169945927

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/RWM522002/RWM522002_0169945865

 

[HELMUT RONER]

Airtex / wells 8d1008

After closer look you're right. Those first 2 look different. The first matching the pictures you linked me to I'll go with. The AIRTEX / WELLS 8D1008 for $38.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=933450&cc=1385355&jsn=313&jsn=313

Not a high priority issue due to work and school. My nearest NAPA is well out of my ways, so I'll have the part come to me from RA instead. A 3 year warranty is good enough for me.

Just for clarity......

The bracket is riveted to the door, but the actuator can be removed from the bracket? Am I understanding that correctly? I was reading the removal procedure on my 2000 to 2002 models Ford CD. It says to remove the actuator rivet after disconnecting the harness. If I'm to remove the rivet I don't have a rivet gun or replacement rivet to put back in.

 

[01STrunner]

You don't need a rivet gun to put it back. I used a 1/4"-20 bolt with a washer and nylock nut to reattach it. I had the opposite issue as you where my door would not unlock except when pulling with the inside door handle. Quite a pain with the SAS. Anyway, mine was caused by a faulty latch (the gold part that actually hits the striker on the door jamb).

Also, it will really make your life easier to unbolt the left side vertical window track. I was in and out of my door upwards of 10 times over the course of a year trying to solve my problem. It's really not too bad of a job to replace anything in there.

 

[swshawaii]

Drilling the actuator bracket rivet and refastening NOT necessary. Actuators removed from bracket pics on post #2 link. When you get the new actuator mark the round pivot "nub" and spread the bracket apart to remove. Make sure you don't pinch your fingers. A wide flat blade stubby screwdriver worked well for me. Also be careful removing the latch rods from the actuators, very easy to break the plastic. Here to help, just ask.

 

[koda2000]

The last one I drilled the rivet and replaced it with a bolt and nyloc nut. Pretty easy to do, but you can spread the bracket and install the new actuator. I tried this, but I found it to be more trouble than it was worth. Your choice.

BTW, I don't know if anyone's mentioned this, but while the original lock actuators had a fixed non-removable rod, there are actuators now that come with a variety of interchangeable rods. This allows you to use one size actuator on either front or rear doors. The front one is easily changed, but the rear door requires removing the door latch, which is a bit of a PITA.

 

[Oliveras]

FYI, I had the same problem for years.
About 3 months ago, while cleaning, I rotated the pull up knob counter clockwise 2 turns, this loosened the rod and now all works well.

 

[koda2000]

The actuator on my XLT's driver's door was weak. I removed the black plastic knob and chucked it in a drill to sand it down a bit. Doing that and using light oil on it allowed it to limp along for a year, but now the actuator's gears have stripped and i need to replace it. Pretty easy to do, just not a priority right now.

 

[Oliveras]

I also use to hear the grinding noise, after knob turning it is gone.
I think the tight knob was preventing the rod from full travel, thus the grinding. FYI

 

[koda2000]

I also use to hear the grinding noise, after knob turning it is gone.
I think the tight knob was preventing the rod from full travel, thus the grinding. FYI

I don't know if it's just a tight knob or a weak actuator, but I can remove my knob completely now and the actuator will still grind and will not unlock the door. Everybody thinks the actuator is just a solenoid, but I've taken one apart and they have nylon gears inside.