2002 Ford Explorer Remote Starter Parking Light Connection

[edmiller1976]

Hello all, I am in the process of hooking up a new remote starter for my ride. I have a Avital 4103 by Directed. The wire from the remote started is as follows:

H1/9 WHITE (+/-) LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT
Important: Do NOT connect this wire to a negative
vehicle light flash wire before changing the programming
jumper to the negative polarity position or damage
to the vehicle light circuit may occur.
As factory configured, the H1/9 WHITE wire should be connected to
the (+) parking light wire. If the light flash polarity jumper is moved to
the (-) position (refer to the Programming Jumper section of this guide),
this wire then supplies (-) 200mA output.

I have connected this to the (brown) wire as described in most information I received on the internet which is located by the light switch control. However, when connected and attempted to start the lights did not work. So I used the jumper. Then the lights worked fine. But the remote starter starts and only runs for 10 seconds and shuts off. Originally I thought I had another issue and spent hours troubleshooting that issue. But what I found is that when I removed the jumper the vehicle stayed running and the remote start runs fine. But the lights do not. I am wondering if I have the wrong wire in the light switch.

What I found online was this:

Car Parking Lights Wire (+): Brown
Car Parking Lights Wire Location: At the Vehicle Light Switch

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

 

[The Rev]

Double check which jumper you are moving. If I recall correctly, there are 2 jumpers. Parking lights and tach threshold. Parking lights are + behind the switch and Ford's are notorious for picky tach signals.

 

[edmiller1976]

Thank you Rev. I confirmed I have the + connection behind the headlight/parking light switch. I confirmed that I get no voltage from the remote start white wire when the jumper is not present. but when the jumper is present I get 12v. Thats the only way the lights seem to work. but then for some reason the vehicle only runs for 10 seconds which tells me there is an issue with the Virtual Tach. But I also tried to tie in to the tach wire in the solenoid to give it a true tach signal and there was no improvement. So right now I have the jumper removed and no parking light illumination.

To make matters worse, as I was completing my install and wen to program my PKALL PATS bypass I found out that I can not program the PKALL because I only have one KEY from the previous owner. Apparently you need at least 2 {ATS programmed keys to program the PKALL. So thats a whole other issue I have to figure out.

 

[The Rev]

FLCAN and DBall2 do "clone" which means only 1 key is needed for programming. If you can flash a PKALL, you should be able to flash a FLCAN.