2002 Sport Trac SAS finally begins

Dana 44 out of a 1989 Grand Wagoneer.

My plan is to get as little llift as possible as I dont feel like removing my body lift. So I am using the stock Waggy knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and likely using new waggy steering parts as well and keeping it 6 lug.

I will leave it spring under as to keep the lift minimal, and use 4" lifted springs. Doing it this way will save me from buying high steer knuckles and a high steer setup. Is this best way, maybe not, but it saves me alot money and keeps my lift to around 5".

Now for those who are asking themselves why am I even bothering with this SAS. My reasons are that my Sport Trac goes through UCA and lower ball joints every other month, and I destroy tires in under 8 months. The truck just cannot handle 35's. PLus it will be way stronger than the IFS, and will flex much more than my IFS system.

If anyone has any thoughts/recomendations/concerns, I welcome all the help you can offer.

I hope money does not slow me down, but the cold weather might, either way my goal is to have this done well before Moab.

 

[chad551]

any luck on geting the caster?

Got it welded up last night. And made my plates for the steering box as well. The gear box is hanging the truck now by the steering shaft.

 

[chad551]

What size DOM tubing do I need to get for my tierod and drag link? 1.125" .220" Wall or 1.3125" X .250" DOM tube???

I ask because I do not have the weld in bungs, and was just going to tap L&R hand threads into tube.

 

[RockRanger]

You need the inside diameter to be what ever is needed for the tap you are using. The few taps that I have used said what size hole to drill for that size tap. If you are having a machine shop do it then ask them what size they need to tap a 7/8 x 18. If you are planning to buy the taps I know that left hand one is expensive that is why most people use the weld in bungs.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

Tick Tock, Moab, Tick Tock. Tick Tock, Moab, Tick Tock. Tick Tock, Moab, Tick Tock

What day are you planning on leaving for Moab? Looks like about 1200 miles of cornfields and about 200 miles of mountains for your drive.

 

[chad551]

Tick Tock, Moab, Tick Tock. Tick Tock, Moab, Tick Tock. Tick Tock, Moab, Tick Tock

What day are you planning on leaving for Moab? Looks like about 1200 miles of cornfields and about 200 miles of mountains for your drive.

Your right it is ALOT of cornfields. That is why I try and get through Kansas at night, and then tackle the mountains in the morning. The last 2 trips I left on Wed evening and drove until about midnight which gets me real close to the border of Kansas and Colorado. Then finish the second leg on Thursday and get to Moab around 3 PM. I could do better but I hate how hard I have to drive my truck up the hills, so I get in the slow lane and practice rock crawling.

I also got my end links ordered they will be delivered Saturday AM. So I hope to be done Sunday. Also the metal shop quoted me $50.00 for 8' of 1.5" x .250 wall DOM, is that a fair price?

 

[RockRanger]

Sounds about right for the DOM. Might even be cheaper then I can get it here.

 

[lifeguard379]

how is the shackle angle with the weight on the springs?

 

[chad551]

how is the shackle angle with the weight on the springs?

It was great.

 

[FireZapper]

Well I started with 1 1/4, 1/4 wall with 3/4 heims. Bent the first time out.

I kept the drag link at 1 1/4. But the tierod went to 1 3/4, 3/8 wall. Has not bent yet.

Just get the weld in adapters and run what works.

 

[chad551]

Well Moab is officially out for me. I ordered my end links from a fab shop in Alabama and paid for 2nd day and Saturday delivery and guess what: either they or UPS F!@#$ed ME!! :fire:No end links in sight to finish the steering. And to top that off my wheels that showed up Friday were used and the wrong wheels as well. So someone is determined to slow down my build, because these stupid idiots or that take and pull orders have officially F!@#ed ME!!

Sorry for the rant but I am a little pissed.

 

[RockRanger]

Sorry to hear that.

 

[Dannyboy]

Hmmm, well, I always trailered my truck BUT My tie rod and drag link were only 1" but .25 wall, I then drilled that out with a 3/4" drill bit and tapped it for 3/4" heims. It was a little small but never failed me.

I was considering upgrading and I would have used 1.5" DOM with .25 wall leaving me an inside Diameter of 1" to tap with larger heims or 1.25" DOM with .25 wall with an inside Diameter of 3/4" and use the 3/4 heims again. Just carry an extra one or two.

I ran my entire setup with R/H taps, to alaign it's just one bolt on the drivers side.

I got everything to do that at Ace Hardware except the DOM.


Now for the wheels...Nobody local has wheels? You're so close. Ace is the place!

And what bolt pattern? I can't tell by the photo but it looks like 5x5.5, did you go that route or 6 lug?

 

[Dannyboy]

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/1182038771.html

 

[crazyflights]

I use 1in & 1/4 DOM 3/8 wall whick leaves you with 1/2 ID, then used 11/16 drill bit and bought left and and right hand 3/4 taps, and threaded it my self, no need for weld in bungs. and 3/8 wall should not be bending very easily.
DannyBOy i thought about using 1in , 1/4 wall and tapping it, but i was worried about the thickness around where your threading in, but you said its been working good for you?

 

[RockRanger]

Did you figure out which pitman arm you are going to use? I will probably need that reamer back in the next few weeks if possible. Mid to end of June would be fine. Still sucks about not making moab.

 

[chad551]

I will have it shipped back this week. I am going to get everything back under the truck so when my end links arrive I can get the steering done.

Thanks for sending it to me.

 

[RockRanger]

Send it so it arrives after june 7th of you can. That would work best for me.

 

[chad551]

Send it so it arrives after june 7th of you can. That would work best for me.

Will do..

Well I got quite a bit done over the weekend considering what I am missing. So my next question is how much of the engine bay do I need to remove to change the power steering pressure line? Looks like alot of fun to change.

 

[chad551]

Anyone have any tips for welding the rod inserts into the DOM? My thought is to weld the outside diameter and drill a hole through the tube and do a spot weld as well??? But should I turn the wire speed down and keep the heat high for 1/4" welds?

 

[IZwack]

Anyone have any tips for welding the rod inserts into the DOM? My thought is to weld the outside diameter and drill a hole through the tube and do a spot weld as well??? But should I turn the wire speed down and keep the heat high for 1/4" welds?

Supposedly you're supposed to drill the hole and do a rosette weld on the hole. But I've never done this and I have yet to hear of a rod insert fracturing at the weld. BUt if you have the time, you might as well do it.

As for the wire speed and power - actually you dont want too much heat because the more heat you put in there, the more you will deform the tube adapter and the chances of deforming the threaded section increases. What I do is usually order one more heim joint - a sacrificial heim joint that is in the tube adapter during welding. A bolt will work too but a bolt usually has lower tolerances than the heim.