2002 Sport Trac SAS finally begins | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2002 Sport Trac SAS finally begins

Dana 44 out of a 1989 Grand Wagoneer.

My plan is to get as little llift as possible as I dont feel like removing my body lift. So I am using the stock Waggy knuckles, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and likely using new waggy steering parts as well and keeping it 6 lug.

I will leave it spring under as to keep the lift minimal, and use 4" lifted springs. Doing it this way will save me from buying high steer knuckles and a high steer setup. Is this best way, maybe not, but it saves me alot money and keeps my lift to around 5".

Now for those who are asking themselves why am I even bothering with this SAS. My reasons are that my Sport Trac goes through UCA and lower ball joints every other month, and I destroy tires in under 8 months. The truck just cannot handle 35's. PLus it will be way stronger than the IFS, and will flex much more than my IFS system.

If anyone has any thoughts/recomendations/concerns, I welcome all the help you can offer.

I hope money does not slow me down, but the cold weather might, either way my goal is to have this done well before Moab.
 



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I like my aussie locker up front. Then again I dont have to deal with snow and ice. Even with the hubs locked and the tcase in 2wd I can shift on the fly into 4wd hi.
 



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Detroit TrueTrac L/S is the shiz! I loved mine in the d35 and I love it in the d44. Still able to turn like it's not locked, and climbs what I point it at. :thumbsup:

The only downside (IMO) to the L/S is if you break an axle, your 2wd and don't have the option of 3wd.
 






i would spend the extra and go selectable. lockers suck ass in the snow
 






OK a huge problem showed it's ugly head today. whowever installed the last upper ball joints fubard the adjustment sleeve threads. I got it out by cutting it, but a couple of the threads are messed up, and it is very hard t oget the new sleeve installed. Is it possible to get a tap and clean the threads out?
 






Went and picked some gears today. Now just need to decide on the locker... Thinking of the eaton or auburn L/S carrier.
 












I finally got more parts today, and painted the new calipers, and knuckles so here is what I have so far. Just need the locker, springs, and steering setup. Here are some pics.

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Bolt it up!
 












what did you decide on?
 






Have not decided yet, however the SUPER EXPENSIVE Eaton E Locker looks nice. I will have L/S fulltime, and I can press a button and be fully locked. So my thinking is with this setup there is no need for Warn selectable hubs correct?
 






Jefe used that one and had some troubles with it not locking, and when it did lock, it wouldn't unlock. I would love to have that one too, but my full time L/S works great for me.
 












Eaton???????/ NO NO NO

they dont even sell them around here and you wont find a shop that will install you one either, toooooooo many problems/headaches/design issues

ARB

Even a limited slip front end in the snow would SUCK, on snow and ice its open or nothing, your truck wont turn!!

there is a reason ARB's are so popular
if you have ice snow no auto locker will work, because as soon as one whele slips you are locked and your truck will not turn = wreck
 






Have not decided yet, however the SUPER EXPENSIVE Eaton E Locker looks nice. I will have L/S fulltime, and I can press a button and be fully locked. So my thinking is with this setup there is no need for Warn selectable hubs correct?
I can tell you, without a doubt, you are going to want selectable hubs on the street no matter what you choose to put in the diff.
 






GEEEEZZZZZ!!!!
Fine I will put an ARB in the front end.:salute::D So then I might as well put one in the rear too!!!
 












Anyone know the warn part numbers for the premium hubs? Or know if this number is correct?

Warn 20990

Also do I need the spindle nut conversion kit as well?
 






Thats the part number I went with and no change needed for the spindle nuts
 



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