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2002 Sport Trac SAS

2002 Explorer Sport Trac

Stock 4.0
Taylor 8.8 MM Plug wires
Screamin Demon Coil
XCAL2 Tuned
Zabtek Cold Air intake
Random Tech "Y" pipe with custom FLowmaster exhaust. A few cats have been removed.

5R55E freshly rebuilt
1354 Borg Warner Electric Shift
Modified Superlift front driveshaft
Stock rear driveshaft

Front Axle:
89 Jeep Grand Wagoneer Dana 44 low pinion
ARB Air Locker
4:56 Ring & Pinion
Superior Chromo Axles
CTM U-joints
Steel braided 28” brakelines
Warn manual locking hubs
Parts Mike Highsteer arms with 1" spacers
Parts Mime highsterr knuckles
5/5.5 conversion kit

Rear Axle:
Explorer 8.8 31 spline
PowerTrax Locker
4:56 Ring & Pinion
SOA conversion
Wheel spacer/adapter for 5/5.5 bolt pattern

BDS front shocks
Rancho RS5000 rear shocks stock height
Custom made 7 pack Waggy leafs up front
Stock leafs out back

Tires and Rims:
35x17x12.5 BFG KM2
Eagle Alloys model 951 17x9

Body Mods:
3" Body lift (may come out soon to allow for more suspension lift)
Clear corner lens
Sylvania Silverstar 9007 headlight bulbs
Sylvania Silverstar 9005 foglight bulbs

Sound System:
Kenwood head unit
(4) 6x9 Ifiniti speakers
(2) 8” Kicker Subs in a custom figerglass enclosure behind the rear seats
Alpine 4 channel Amplifier
Cobra 75WXST CB

Here is my build thread, I will apologize now for the stupid questions you will read from me..


There are a bunch of interior mods i did but this a SAS registry..

First was the install of the crossmember:

Then followed alot of cutting and grinding to get here, where the rear leaf mounts were installed:

Then a little more progress:

Steering was a PITA. Here is my Gen1 and Gen2 Hybris steering linkage:

Here is the Rack and Pinion steering cooler re-used and mounted to my crossmember:

More progress:


All this work to get here:









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Thanks for the info Chad. A few more questions, if you don't mind :) I read above where you recommended the dana 44 axles out of a 80-81 or 85-92 wagoneer. I assume this is because of their length and because the pumpkin is on the driver's side? Are there other reasons that make this a prime donor? Are there other years and models that I should keep my eyes open for, or is the wagoneer really my best/only option. I want to keep the length as close to original as possible. (Not going for the full size axle look.)

Also, I read where you had asked about the ABS, but I don;t recall you getting an answer. What did you do about your ABS?

I hope this question doesn't show my complete ignorance, but here goes. So you now have manual hubs? You have to get out of the truck and lock the hubs at the wheels (old school style)? But still use the stock electronic "dial" on the dash to engage the transfer case? And then you have installed two switches to engage the front and rear ARB lockers? ....Wait, I just went back and looked at your pics, and you have center caps on your front wheels. So the hubs stay engaged all the time, rotating the axles, front-rear, and front drive shaft all the time? OK, now I'm confused. I guess I did manage to show my ignorance :)

The wagoneer axle is close to the same width, the best option is an axle from an early bronco, they are a little narrower, but harder to find from my experience and more $$$$. Wagoneer axles are pretty easy to find and cheap. Plus if you do a leaf setup the axle is already setup for leafs. Follow this link for Dana 44 info. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44.htm

I do not have ABS any longer in my truck, and to be honest I dont really notice a difference. At some point I would like to remove the ABS module from the engine bay, for more space but I developed a "it if works, leave it alone attitude" since I did the SAS. This attitude holds true that I may not even mess removing the leafs and doing a linked setup. Like I said the leafs work so why bother.

As for the hubs I have Warn manual hubs, that are a stock item at Advance Autoparts, Autozone ,etc. So I have to get out and manually engage the hubs for 4 wheel drive. I did this so in the event I break a chromoly axle or CTM u joint I can disengage that wheel and limp out of a trail in 3 wheel drive, and drive it home. Plus it saves MPG when daily driven, since I am turning the axles and t-case.

For my center caps, they are a 2 piece design so I just took my dremel and opened the inside of the plastic center cap so it slides over the hub. It just looks better IMO. I still have the outer peice that has the wheel manufacturers name on it. But I still have the same switch in the cab to engage the transfer case. And I have switches for the ARB compressor and locker.

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"Measure twice, cut and weld once". All great in theory but as we all know it's always a learning process and once a project, always a project. lol. Thanks for sharing the info. Chad, which setup do you think would be better for me whe I do mine? leaf or link? It'll be a daily driver like yours, mainly driven on the city streets and highways in Pittsburgh (mainly hilly and curvy roads) As much as I want to do a link setup I'm think the leafspring setup would be safer for the roads around here. I don't drive like a mad man but since my wife and I are expecting our first child in October I geuss I need to look into safety and stability even more now.

I dont think I am any expert on SAS, and would hate to tell you the wrong thing for what would be in your best intrest, because I honestly dont know.

My truck drives great with leafs. I know some people may not like reading this, but I can still do 80-100 MPH all day long if I wanted to and it is very stable... I dont do that though as I usually always have my son with me.

I am sure you could build a linked setup, and put a sway bar on it, and it will be fine. The decision is ultimately how much you want to spend and how much fab work you are prepared to do.

Would I love to have a linked setup with some bling coilover shocks? You bet I would!!!! But I also have alot of things I could spend that $2k bucks on to.

I think my next mods for my truck will be an Atlas T-case, an ARB locker for the rear, and I am seriously considering the STS turbo kit :burnout:

Man, that is a beautiful truck. I almost regret not searching harder for one when I was in the market for a new ride but the nice ones around here are ridiculously expensive and almost as rare as a BII. (Bought an 89 Land Cruiser instead.) It's also nice seeing it get dirty despite it being relatively young. Great work! :thumbsup:

I think I'll stick with my original plan and just go leafspring setup simply for the stability over the linked setup. My wife drives it so I want it as safe as I get make it for the roads around here. Plus with a kid on the way I need to keep the costs down. Thanks again for the help.

Hey Chad, is this the 5x5.5 conversion kit that you purchased off ebay? Same seller? If so, it looks like the price has gone up :(

(dead links)

Any picks of the new kicks.

That is the kit, and yes it is more expensive.

Brad I will get pics of the new tires in the morning.

And I made some new parts. So I can fix my goof..





Love new tires! Looks good and I am jealous of your new toy. Can make a lot of parts with that. :)

Also still surprised that the mount being a hair off affects the articulation or cycle of the front so much.

All looks good Chad, I like the tires :D

How do you like that Porta-band set-up? I was thinking of doing that someday myself.

I am not sure how much the improper mounting of the shackle mounts affect articulation, but it is not perfect, and that is what I expect of myself.

I like the Porta-band table mount. It works really well, not sure how good the mitre guide will work since the band saw blade flexes a little. But I got the porta-band for 150.00 and it was brand new. Kinda could not pass it up. So now I can make all my own brackets with the saw or my plasma cutter... Wife says I have issues with collecting tools... I always thought the guy with the most tools wins :dunno:

Why did you change from Km2's? better price??

I was not happy with the performance of the KM2 tires. They were fine on dry terrain and rocks, but when it was muddy, they just packed up with mud and got me stuck. Remember how many times I was stuck at your place? The snow performance was marginal at best, and in rain they were just ok. These Nittos have been great so far. I have already ran them in snow and rain. And the difference is very noticeable, plus at 280.00/tire to my door was great. And they are very quite on the road, which suprised me somewhat.

Hey Chad, I'm working on my 02 ST SAS and I was curious how far forward does your axle sit from its stock location? I have tacked my front and rear mounts onto the frame as far back as possible (radiator in front, body mount in rear) and according to my measurements I am 4in further forward than stock.

few pics for you buddy :)





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People freak out when they see your rig. Heck I have a hard time getting over how big that thing is, and I have been around it many times now....LOL

Looking good Chad :thumbsup: