2002 Tranny Issues

[daveleeander]

Jumglekid,
When I went to buy my last filter, I went to the local parts store here, and upon the recommendation of the same gentleman who sold me the solenoid block , I asked for a microfelt filter. When the parts guy went to look it up, there was a part number break for those built before early '02, and those built later in '02 (I forget what month it was). The one before (some month) 02 only had one bolt. Mine had two bolts. That is why I didn't take the one he was trying to convince me went to mine. I ended up going to the stealership and getting one. If yours was manufactured in '01, it may not be a "W".

Wrench,
I put two quarts in the pan and then put it back on. I originally used Mercon V, and put another two quarts in (with the engine running) through a 1/8" X Close nipple and suction gun. I have since flushed mine with a 12V pump rigged up (3 GPM) with Amsoil synthetic. Took about 15 minutes after I bought the ford tool to split the line at the cooler. The safety clip ridge on the line means having the correct tool, or more patience than I have.


Dave

 

[Glacier991]

That transmission had some initial early failure problems and indeed the solenoid block seems to go around 50-75K miles in many instances. It is not a really difficult remove and replace item. Dave can maybe fill you in on the details of his replacement. For him it fixed his problems... which is not to say that magically it will yours. Good chance though. I'll let Dave chime in here.

 

[Glacier991]

Do you have a 6 cyl or 8 cyl

 

[junglekid]

6 cyl.

 

[daveleeander]

The hardest thing to do on the whole job is to get the solenoid block electrical connector loose without taking all the linkage loose. I used a 1/4" drive wratchet and an 8mm socket to get to it. It is one of those "two clicks at a time", and there are a lot clicks. The connector comes up as the center retaining bolt is being loosened. You want to clean good around the connector, there will be dirt up there. It is located on the left front upper edge of the tranny, just in front of the digital range sensor. You will see it when you see where the block is located. Look on the outside and up where the linkage to the range sensor is. It is in behind that.
Patience and perservence is the key.
You will need an inch pound torque wrench and torx bit (#30) to put the block on. There are 8 retaining bolts, with only one of them shorter than the rest, and you can't get it in the wrong place.

I would suggest you get an ATSGtechtran manual. Has lots of my kind of instructions (pictures )

Get a suction gun (I bought a Lincoln and am less than impressed with it) to put the last couple of quarts of fluid in. You can put two quarts in the pan before you put it back up on. I just recently flushed mine, and used a 12V electric pump that I had for a field sprayer. It puts out 2.8 GPM, which was just the right amount. I will use it from now on, but you can use a suction gun alright, just takes time.

The pan gasket is reusable, and you will want to torque it back on also, so you don't ruin the gasket.

All in all a fairly simple replacement. The book will help you. I took pictures, but too big of a hassle to get them sized right. I have tried twice now, and just quit.

Dave

 

[Glacier991]

I have conflicting info as to whether you have the 5R55W or 5R55E. Is the bellhousing all one piece with the case, or is there a demaration indicating it is bolted on ?

ps. sorry for the short term hijack, the thread is now all yours again.

 

[Glacier991]

Ok more research, it appears you have the 5R55W and Dave Leeander was right.

 

[jb606]

Just got back from vacation and while driving back my OD light starts flashing and when I accelarate to about 4000 RPM it will not shift and the RPMs increase to 7000 RPMs like I am in idle. The service light also came on. My extended warranty expired last year and I have 66000 miles on the car. I now hear a big clunk or bang when switching into 3rd gear and I cannot accelarate past 3000 - 4000 rpms. I believe my tranny is going out. What is the typicall cost of a new/rebuild tranny? Is it worth getting fixed?

I'm having almost the same problem but it is pressure control solenoid "B", when I pulled the codes i got a P0775. Is this any harder to replace than solenoid "A"?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! All of these solenoids are located in the valve body, so they are right near each other. This valve body is the modular style, so if you have to replace one, you have to replace all of them. First drop the pan, and inspect the wiring. If the wires are damaged in any way, it will throw a code saying that a solenoid is bad. You could use a multimeter to test the solenoid's coil to see if it is blown out before having to replace anything. The next step is to test the internal harness for continuity going to the solenoid. Post # 10 on the previous page has a picture of the solenoid block. Here is the link: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1448448&postcount=10

 

[just2L]

Just the other day while driving in town my tranny acted as if it slipped out of gear. After getting no response at the peddle I ended up shifted into N and coasting for 1/2 a block. I then put it back in D and it was fine. Haven't have a problem with it since. The truck has 92,000 on it. Any ideas?

Is this a one time glitch or should I expect more of this. Is there anything I can do now to cut the costs on a repair later?

 

[Glacier991]

I'm not sure if your trans has a dipstick or not. But the first thing to check would be the fluid level before moving down to the list of other possibles.

 

[just2L]

No dipstick

I don't have a dipstick the tranny is sealed. Not happy about that at all. I have a hesitation problem once in a great while but it's not constant. My guess is I should probably pull the pan and replace the filter. However I don't have the book to tackle this one.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The filter isn't difficult to replace. It is recommended to use a torque wrench on the pan bolts so that you don't overtighten the bolts, and strip the housing. The procedure to refill the 5R55W is located in this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118654. You will soon see that this transmission is not completely sealed. There is a plug on it for checking the fluid level.

 

[Iamru23]

Hey guys, I'm new here but having the same problem. Code pulled was for solenoid A. It's an 02 explorer with the 4.6. I installed a factory ford solenoid block and nothing happened. Is there something I'm missing? I'm into this for like $400 now with no improvement. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! What was the exact code number? How many miles does it have on it?

 

[Iamru23]

The code is P0745
Pressure Control Solenoid A
The card has 151669 on the odo

 

[Iamru23]

Also if anyone knows, when I received the part there was tranny fluid in the bag with the solenoid block. Just residual really but should these come bone dry from the factory or is there a possibility I was sold a used part?

 

[BrooklynBay]

They soak these parts in transmission fluid to prevent rust while they are in storage, and during shipping. Check the internal wiring harness, bulkhead connector on the transmission, and the battery terminals. Sometimes rust, corrosion or a bad connection will throw a code.

 

[Iamru23]

I'll try that when I get home today but the connector looked great, still had the dielectric grease in there. The trouble codes arent what's worrying me. It's the transmission not shifting unless I baby it

 

[BrooklynBay]

These transmissions have known issues with the servo bores so that might be another possibility. Did you check the band adjustment to see if the bands are broken?