2002 XLT owner ... Q: Starting problem | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

2002 XLT owner ... Q: Starting problem

diyer999

Member
Joined
February 9, 2012
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
City, State
Pine Creek Gorge
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002, XLT
Vehicle: 2002 Ford Explorer XLT, AT, 6 cyl., 4x4

Hello, I recently joined the forum on behalf of my son in law who has no computer. His Explorer has developed its first problem, a starting problem after the vehicle has been driven. He told me that he puts the key into the ignition column, turns in to start the vehicle and nothing happens, just blank, no crank, silence ... he told me that he had to wait for five hours before it would start. He said it starts fine in the morning for him after it has sat overnight. Some Ford employee at a dealership said to try a newly cut key, that older worn keys cause this problem. Another person said this is common to Explorers, that he should open the drivers door manually and then do something'er other thing, cause its an anti- theft device that is the problem. And a third person said to reset the computer.

[Q # 1] is this a common problem related to the anti-theft sensor?

[Q # 2] Can the ECU in a 2002 Explorer XLT be reset by removing the battery cables for 30 seconds? longer? ... if not, does the ECU have its own separate battery and a special tool is needed to reset the ECU?

[Q # 3] Is this anti-theft problem covered in the FAQ or archived data base? ... I willing to read up on it but I think we need to narrow down whether this is the likely cause.

It seems to me that Ford likes their Special Service Tools, much more than the Asian or European vehicle manufacturers do.

[Q # 4] Are there any Special Tools just for Fords that I will need immediately before even thinking of working on the XLT, besides an OBD II code reader? I never owned any vehicle past 1994, so I never had a reason to get one. I have heard this topic discussed by technicians. Some say that all you need is a generic OBD II code reader of reasonable reliability. Other techs say to get a reader for the specific vehicle, cause even though they cost more, they save time and money and are more accurate. For example, I was close to buying an Audi A4 one time, and the techs at the Audi forum said that an Audi based OBD II code reader was considered mandatory for accurate diagnosis, that nothing else would work. My understanding about OBD II is this: Generic OBD II code readers cover the basic "Emissions, Drivability, and Safety" codes as set forth by the EPA. Dedicated vehicle specific OBD II code readers cover that plus more, codes specific to the vehicle, for instance, maybe the heater in the seat that goes on the blink, and a dedicated reader made for the vehicle will tell you what the problem most likely is, whereas, the generic reader cannot do that. Other than that I know nothing about OBD II tools.

[Q # 5] Do the 02 Explorers use lots of 12 point fasteners ... if yes, are they a double hex, or the kind that looks a Torx bit ... or both? ... and are the 12 pt head bolts a different kind of 12 point?

If there is anything else that anyone recommends let me know.

Thank you all. :salute:
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I have had 2 problems with the anti theft unit since i owned my x. Yes the ECU is reset by cutting the battery but the transponder key codes will still be programmed into the PATS unit. When the key is inserted, what does the red light on the dash do: steady blinking or fast blinking?
 






Thank you for your reply. I will ask my Son-in-law asap. As soon as I get his answer I will post it.
 






does the positive battery terminal look bad?
I had a similar problem with nothing happening once you turn the key to on, then couple of hours later, it works all together again. turned out to be a bad terminal.
 






does the positive battery terminal look bad?
I had a similar problem with nothing happening once you turn the key to on, then couple of hours later, it works all together again. turned out to be a bad terminal.

+1! Almost guaranteed, if no start sometimes, starts seemingly OK other times, clean the battery terminal connections!

I have even seen a condition exist where small current drains, before starting engine, like parking lights, etc., work OK, turn the key to "start", and BOOM! The connection at the battery terminal open-circuits, and NO current flows. Complete silence.

Costs NOTHING to check battery terminals. imp
 






I have even seen a condition exist where small current drains, before starting engine, like parking lights, etc., work OK, turn the key to "start", and BOOM!
imp

once, after that boom i had complete silence except for the airbag warning light on the dash! it looked funny to be let alone amongst the darkness.
 












Is Code P0705 [Trans range sensor out of position, open or shorted], capable of preventing the starting of the engine, even if the back-up lights come on when the gear selector is put in Reverse ??? (I figure it cant be that far off). We have not looked at the sensor yet, but perhaps it is shorted just in the P or N position??? Is that possible? (Advance auto checked the vehicle for free with a scanner and said they got a P0705 code). We have been having a starting issue. Several guys thought it was the battery, but a new battery was tried and still no start; and the other battery was tested as functioning and not having any internal problems. We are aware it can also be other possibilities, wiring, starter, relay, solenoid.
 






Something I would try... Put your hand on each battery cable and twist it with some strength. If the connector moves, that is your problem. I know most people think that just cause the connector is not that loose that it won't cause that but it will. Cheers!
 






Something I would try... Put your hand on each battery cable and twist it with some strength. If the connector moves, that is your problem. I know most people think that just cause the connector is not that loose that it won't cause that but it will. Cheers!

I know exactly what you mean. My Honda does that often and I have to make sure the back side nut is not stopping it from closing tight ... very deceptive indeed! But the Explorer is not mine and unfortunately I am not near it. So, all I can do is tell the owner to make sure the cables are tight, and to check it by twisting them. But thank you.

On the other hand, I have started vehicles by placing the opened cables on the terminals without any tightening. I dont recall if it was by accident or something I was purposefully doing at the time ... Go figure?
 






Back
Top