2003 Explorer 4.6L Coolant Loss

[matt0248]

Typically the "Upper Plenum" refers to the intake elbow between the throttle body and the intake manifold.

 

[scottfab]

Typically the "Upper Plenum" refers to the intake elbow between the throttle body and the intake manifold.

I see now. What I thought was all TB is actually two parts. Found a pic at:
http://www.##################.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=P8954155+&submit=

Looks like Edlebrock is the only all metal solution?
Don't want no stinking plastic again :fire:

 

[tower]

I looked into the Edlebrock one and it seems you need to use new fuel rails and a new upper plenum. Some claim to have used stock parts but had to fab up there own brackets and such. With the new fuel rail you would need to plum in your own fuel lines as they don't come with them. This info is from the mustang guys.

 

[matt0248]

Performance Products also makes a "typhoon" aluminum intake for the mustan which should bolt right up.

EDIT: Tha would be Proffesional Products.

 

[scottfab]

Performance Products also makes a "typhoon" aluminum intake for the mustan which should bolt right up.

EDIT: Tha would be Proffesional Products.

I did find it but looks to be big $ over the Edlebrock.
http://www.professional-products.com/manifolds46LFord.php
Not sure yet. Can't find a posted price on their site nor
any of the dealers they point to.
It is indeed a metal product though, thanks.

 

[tower]

500-600 dollars and iffy reviews, some of the mustang guys say they lost power with it but some say that if you polish the runners it does work well as it seems the casting is very rough.

 

[scottfab]

The pic on the Edlebrock seems to show the fuel rail mounting holes at a 90deg angle to what the Explorer needs. I'm going to have to call to see what's up with that. Maybe they supply a conversion bracket. Or maybe the customer has to come up with some.

 

[tower]

The pic on the Edlebrock seems to show the fuel rail mounting holes at a 90deg angle to what the Explorer needs. I'm going to have to call to see what's up with that. Maybe they supply a conversion bracket. Or maybe the customer has to come up with some.

I looked into the Edlebrock one and it seems you need to use new fuel rails and a new upper plenum. Some claim to have used stock parts but had to fab up there own brackets and such. With the new fuel rail you would need to plum in your own fuel lines as they don't come with them. This info is from the mustang guys.

 

[esclamada]

how about this one? pricey though..

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-...002&vehicleType=automotive&newCar=1&carId=002

they also have a chrome finish for an extra $$

-----------------------------------------------------------
MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer?sk=photos

 

[scottfab]

how about this one? pricey though..

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-...002&vehicleType=automotive&newCar=1&carId=002

they also have a chrome finish for an extra $$

-----------------------------------------------------------
MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer?sk=photos

Thanks but that one looks to be the same one mentioned in this thread at #25 and #26.

 

[1tufgt]

If this was to be fixed by mechanic, how much would one charge to fix this? Reason I'm asking is we have experience some coolant loss and I haven't dug into the engine to find if this is possibly the root cause.

We are trying to sell it and wonder what the cost would be to fix to help with our asking price.

 

[scottfab]

If this was to be fixed by mechanic, how much would one charge to fix this? Reason I'm asking is we have experience some coolant loss and I haven't dug into the engine to find if this is possibly the root cause.

We are trying to sell it and wonder what the cost would be to fix to help with our asking price.

I would suspect it would depend on if you could find an honorable place. At a dealership I'm betting they'd want to replace the intake manifold and at their prices for part and labor I'd totally guess at $800. If you found a smaller shop "with experience on this issue" I'd guess at half that.

 

[scottfab]

I have some late breaking news on this issue.

Rather than buy a $300 intake from Eklers and then another $200 in a new fuel rail and injectors I decided to do some experimenting.

I found this. Even if you successfully repair the leaks in the plastic and the thermostat area you still will eventually face leaks on the other side of that metal connecting tube (goes to the passenger side). The problem there is that there's only one bolt holding it and the plastic bows and eventually cracks and leaks into the intake of cyl #1 and #2.

I put a metal clamp running from under this area and at the cyl #1 right on the head to the top of the metal runner. (this really needs a pic to explain) I tightened it and bingo!!! no more leak. No wonder block sealant does really work well. this area of plastic on metal is constantly going to be shifting due to different coefficients of expansion.

My plan is to now cut the portion of the intake manifold that runs under the metal connecting tube, off. And fasten the tube from the left head directly to the right head with gasket under of course. To do this about 1/8 in of the corner on one end of the tube will be ground. off. Then with proper sealing of the intake at #1 to avoid a intake vacuum leak this should solve the problem of fluid leak for ever.

Stay tuned. It may take a few weeks to get to this because frankly the clamp is working fine

Scott

 

[alexb2000]

I went through this two years ago. Ford has an updated manifold that solves all these problems. The manifold was ~$300 if I remember correctly, maybe a little less. I replaced it myself in about 3-4 hours.

This leaking is something you have to stop ASAP. The coolant gets into the cylinders and out the exhaust. In my case it killed the converters. That was a lot more money than the manifold to replace.

Not worth all the drama and risk IMO. Just get the updated part and be done with it.

 

[scottfab]

There is virtually no issue for the CATs what so ever if you use straight water as coolant while you troubleshoot the leak.

I've isolated mine and have a temp fix in place now until I have time to implement my plan of removing ALL the plastic between the heads and the metal water tube that connects the two heads.
My temp fix is a clamp. I managed to rebuild the plastic area around the thermostat area. I did this only to make sure I understood where all the leaks were coming from.

They are on both sides where the water goes through. That's whey I'm removing them and going straight to the heads (with a gasket separating them) I have a new intake manifold but am committed to this other solution.
Oh BTW on the passenger side where the leak is, it is aggravated by the fact that there is only one bolt there. I use a clamp as the temp fix.
Works wonderfully. NO LEAKS !!!!

 

[alexb2000]

There is virtually no issue for the CATs what so ever if you use straight water as coolant while you troubleshoot the leak.

I've isolated mine and have a temp fix in place now until I have time to implement my plan of removing ALL the plastic between the heads and the metal water tube that connects the two heads.
My temp fix is a clamp. I managed to rebuild the plastic area around the thermostat area. I did this only to make sure I understood where all the leaks were coming from.

They are on both sides where the water goes through. That's whey I'm removing them and going straight to the heads (with a gasket separating them) I have a new intake manifold but am committed to this other solution.
Oh BTW on the passenger side where the leak is, it is aggravated by the fact that there is only one bolt there. I use a clamp as the temp fix.
Works wonderfully. NO LEAKS !!!!

You have a like new updated intake, but you're not going to use it? OK by me.

Perhaps other readers would like to know that there is a solution that works for $245 at the nearest Ford dealer if they don't want to do something custom.

Good luck with your project.