2003 Ford Explorer XLT driver power window not working

[Joe951]

My driver window doesn’t work, the button makes a click sound everytime I press it. All the other windows work, from the driver switch and the passenger switches. None of the windows worked but then I replaced the driver window switch and all of them work now except for the driver window. The locks and side mirrors work, I checked the boot and I see no wires loose. What could be causing just the driver window to not work and make a click noise? I am tired of having to open my door when in the drive thru lol

 

[glo81]

My driver window doesn’t work, the button makes a click sound everytime I press it. All the other windows work, from the driver switch and the passenger switches. None of the windows worked but then I replaced the driver window switch and all of them work now except for the driver window. The locks and side mirrors work, I checked the boot and I see no wires loose. What could be causing just the driver window to not work and make a click noise? I am tired of having to open my door when in the drive thru lol

I had a similar issue a while back, but with the rear driver side window. I replaced the window regulator (there are good step-by-step videos on YouTube) and that solved it.

 

[J_C]

If you mean that the button itself makes a different sound when pressed, I'd wonder if the button has mechanically failed. It seems unlikely if a new switch but more likely if it was a used junkyard pull switch?

Otherwise, I'd take the switch panel out of the door and use a multimeter to see if it's passing power to the motor when pressed, key in accessory or run to allow windows to work of course.

Your accessory delay relay must work for the other windows to work but if you have the driver's one-touch-down feature, maybe that relay has failed? I could be misleading you, am going by memory of what the circuit is like on a 2nd gen explorer.

 

[LMHmedchem]

See if you can find a partially open position of the door that will get the window working. This is an indication that there is a broken wire in the wire harness the goes through the door boot. Even if you can't find a position to get it working, I would remove the boot and look very carefully at every wire. It may be that one of the wires is broken and they can be hard to find. The wire doesn't have to appear loose to have broken enough to lose the connection.

Absent finding a broken wire, I would start by rechecking all of the connections to the switch making sure there is no oxidation on the ends of the wire. Sorry to say that electrical issues can be quite annoying to track down.

LMHmedchem

 

[Joe951]

If you mean that the button itself makes a different sound when pressed, I'd wonder if the button has mechanically failed. It seems unlikely if a new switch but more likely if it was a used junkyard pull switch?

Otherwise, I'd take the switch panel out of the door and use a multimeter to see if it's passing power to the motor when pressed, key in accessory or run to allow windows to work of course.

Your accessory delay relay must work for the other windows to work but if you have the driver's one-touch-down feature, maybe that relay has failed? I could be misleading you, am going by memory of what the circuit is like on a 2nd gen explorer.

It is a new switch, I thought the one that was sent might be broken so I ordered from another brand put it was the same problem. It is an auto up but not down, the window is stuck in the up position. I will check the relay and see if that is it thanks in advanced.