2003 sport trac changing oil for the first time

[22william]

Hey, i'm changing the oil on my own for the first time. I have everything but the socket wrench, what size wrench do I need? And I am also tuning up the truck on my own soon as well for the first time. Or should I watch someone do it before attempting that?

 

[sickwilly]

Get a metric set and you will be fine. My old one was a 17 mm I believe. However, with an 03 the bolt could have been replaced.

What do you mean tune up?

 

[22william]

Get a metric set and you will be fine. My old one was a 17 mm I believe. However, with an 03 the bolt could have been replaced.

What do you mean tune up?

Like replacing the wires and spark plugs and air filter. The truck is starting to lightly shake while in idle. Someone said it's time for a tune up

 

[swshawaii]

Applaud you for willing to learn and taking the initiative to DIY. Basic maintenance on these trucks is relatively easy, but you MUST have guidelines to follow and more importantly the right tool(s) for the job. Using incorrect tools can lead to injury, broken or damaged parts, and expensive botched repairs. Search through the EF sticky's for info, as well as the MyST.com projects section linked below for excellent guides. Also wouldn't hurt to have a basic repair guide such as a Hayne's Manual or more advanced and detailed Ford Work Shop Manual that can be easily found on eBay. Good, knowledgeable people here, any questions feel free to ask. Welcome and good luck.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/shared/projects.asp?TYPE=Maintenance&PageHeader=Member

 

[Paul Fithian]

Good luck with your project. Changing the plugs and wires on these is not an easy job. Find a friend who has some experience and tools to help you if it's your first time doing this on a vehicle.

 

[koda2000]

Changing the oil on the SOHC engine is no different than any other engine (the job just tends to be messier - you'll know why I'm saying this afterwards). I suggest you have plenty of paper towels handy and put down a large piece of cardboard to minimize the mess. As far as drain plug size, I just bring my full set of metric sockets with me under the truck, as each of my vehicles seems to have a different size drain plug. I think my ST is 16 mm or 17 mm.

Tip: Be sure to use a decent brand of oil filter (like Motorcraft) with an anti drain-back valve and a minimum of a synthetic-blend 5W30 oil. I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic, but there are many other good quality brands you can use. I also like to pre-fill the oil filter with fresh oil prior to installing it and starting the engine to avoid a dry start. You can also hold your foot to the floor and crank the engine until you see the oil pressure gauge needle pop up. This may take 12-15 seconds of cranking, but is easier than trying to fill the oil filter. Holding your foot to the floor will prevent the engine from starting (as it turns the fuel injectors off).

 

[sickwilly]

Gotcha. I might add to your list the fuel filter. Listen for any potential vacuum leaks too.

Plugs are a *****. Passenger tire comes off for access. It will help if your doing the wires in case you hurt them pulling them off.

 

[koda2000]

Gotcha. I might add to your list the fuel filter. Listen for any potential vacuum leaks too.

Plugs are a *****. Passenger tire comes off for access. It will help if your doing the wires in case you hurt them pulling them off.

As long as you remove the front tires and plastic inner fenders, changing the spark plugs is quite easy. A bit more work, but considering you only need to do it roughly every one hundred thousand miles, worth the extra effort. I don't see how the passenger side rear plug (#3) can be changed any other way.

 

[swshawaii]

Agree with Koda. Spark plug R&R is not as difficult as some make it to be providing you have the proper tools and time to spare without corrosion issues. A thin wall 16mm or 5/8" deep socket was essential for me to access the plugs because of the round heat shield clearance around the plugs. Also, few mention awkward access from above due to the height of the ST. Being 5' 6" I had a difficult time standing on a short stool, even with my ST being lowered 3 inches. In addition, using a THIN coat of copper or nickel anti seize on plug threads, and dielectric silicone grease on both wire boots is often overlooked. Removing the boots can be PITA due to the tight space, spark plug wire pliers will not only save the wires, but also your hands and fingers from injuries. The only spark plug I've seen used in the 4.0L SOHC without a single complaint is the recommended OE replacement Motorcraft SP-500 Finewire Platinum. CAREFULLY check gaps at 054" without touching the center electrode, and be on your way for the next 70-100K.

 

[sr139fox]

Changed my oil today. Drain plug on a 2001 4.0 is a 13mm. I would recommend to get a new plug from the dealer as the old seal might be crushed and leak. That way you can find a now seal between changes. That is what I do and have no leaks or seepage around the plug. Takes 5.1 quarts of oil.

 

[koda2000]

Like I said, the drain plug sizes seem to all be different (maybe many have been replaced over the years?) my '01 ST is at 16 or 17 mm. With 6 Ex's in the family I've never had any of them leak from the drain plug. I think one reason people get drain plug leaks is because they over tighten the plug. I often find that the first time I change the oil on a new acquired vehicle, the drain plug and oil filter are on so tight I need to use a length of pipe on my ratchet to get them off.

 

[swshawaii]

All good points. Other than over tightening the drain plug and oil filter, I believe the biggest mistake MANY first time oil changers forget
is to remove the old filter gasket if it's stuck to the block. BIG mess and waste of oil when started. Also lubricate the new filter gasket
before installing. Koda's advice to fill the filter before installing is a good one. Forgot to my last oil and filter change, and my "dry" chains
and tensioners complained big time for at least two seconds bedore quieting down. Scared the crap out of me.

 

[koda2000]

All good points. Other than over tightening the drain plug and oil filter, I believe the biggest mistake MANY first time oil changers forget
is to remove the old filter gasket if it's stuck to the block. BIG mess and waste of oil when started. Also lubricate the new filter gasket
before installing. Koda's advice to fill the filter before installing is a good one. Forgot to my last oil and filter change, and my "dry" chains
and tensioners complained big time for at least two seconds bedore quieting down. Scared the crap out of me.

Good point about making sure the old oil filter gasket comes off with the filter. They often get stuck on the block. I've never made this mistake, but I know many you have. I always wipe the block surface clean before installing the new filter, so if the old gasket is stuck on the engine I'll see/feel it.

 

[22william]

I posted a new thread. Can you all check it

 

[RangerX]

No need for a new thread to ask the drain plug location. It belongs in this thread, ask it here.

 

[22william]

It was a 5/8. But now the 5/8 is stuck on the plug. I have to get it off before it freezes on there

 

[swshawaii]

As quoted in post #2, that's why you should use METRIC tools on your ST. 99% of the fasteners are METRIC.

Is the plug still threaded in the pan? If not, tap the bolt on the ground, the wrench should come off. Hopefully.

 

[swshawaii]

Also recommend SIX POINT metric sockets if you're buying them. Much less chance of rounding bolt heads and nuts.

 

[22william]

I got it off the plug and hand tightened it. Now I can't. Get the oil filter unloose. Is it because it's freezing outside ? Or do I need something with grip. Cause I can't get it off

 

[koda2000]

It is not an SAE size (not 5/8") that's why it's stuck on the head of the plug now. Set your ratchet to ON and smack it. It should let go of the plug, Get yourself a set of Metric sockets or you will experience this problem repeatedly