2004 Explorer grinding

[Floridaexplorer43]

recently bought a 2004 Explorer with 160000 miles. I no longer have my 2003 Explorer.
I immediately had to have both wheel bearings in back replaced and was told the cv axles on passenger side had recently been changed before I bought it. I have a abs code for passenger front and feel like front hubs will be changed next.
I have Eddie Bauer edition rear wheel drive independent suspension with cv axles in rear.
I’m hearing a grinding sound like I have to be cautious with acceleration bc it sounds like a wheel is spinning or grinding sound like a stuck caliper or rubbing brake sound.

why are all bearings bad at 160000 miles??Buying online I can buy two cheaper than one at Auto Zone.

one rear bearing install, a shop used a hammer and torch not a press to remove and or install bearing.
4.0
Rear wheel drive 2wd

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

recently bought a 2004 Explorer with 160000 miles. I no longer have my 2003 Explorer.
I immediately had to have both wheel bearings in back replaced and was told the cv axles on passenger side had recently been changed before I bought it. I have a abs code for passenger front and feel like front hubs will be changed next.
I have Eddie Bauer edition rear wheel drive independent suspension with cv axles in rear.
I’m hearing a grinding sound like I have to be cautious with acceleration bc it sounds like a wheel is spinning or grinding sound like a stuck caliper or rubbing brake sound.

why are all bearings bad at 160000 miles??Buying online I can buy two cheaper than one at Auto Zone.

one rear bearing install, a shop used a hammer and torch not a press to remove and or install bearing.
4.0
Rear wheel drive 2wd

A shop told me I don’t have a stuck caliper. I’m skeptical to buy cheaper parts online bc I don’t know what I would be getting in quality compared to local part houses

 

[LMHmedchem]

A shop told me I don’t have a stuck caliper. I’m skeptical to buy cheaper parts online bc I don’t know what I would be getting in quality compared to local part houses

The quality of a part has little to do with where you buy it, but rather the company that manufactured the part.

You can often get the exact same parts from many places for a range of prices. Local shops will almost always be more expensive than online prices if you can wait for the normal shipping times. People who work at local shops get paid like everyone else and so there are added expenses. You will most always get high quality parts from a dealer, but these will also be the most expensive in most every case.

Post what you are looking for here and there are many members who can tell you the best parts to get for your budget.

LMHmedchem

 

[Mototech77]

My ‘04 had the same issue when I got it. Both rear wheel bearings were bad and got replaced along with the rear CV axles. The brake dust shield was rubbing periodically after the job, so it needed to get bent out away from the rotor. I also had a driver’s side front wheel speed sensor code. Both front bearings were shot, so I replaced the hub assemblies with the integrated wheel speed sensors. All four corners are quiet now. The differential can make noise too, but this is typically a much different sound.

I get my parts from Rock Auto. They have the best prices generally and you can get anything from economy to OEM parts.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

My ‘04 had the same issue when I got it. Both rear wheel bearings were bad and got replaced along with the rear CV axles. The brake dust shield was rubbing periodically after the job, so it needed to get bent out away from the rotor. I also had a driver’s side front wheel speed sensor code. Both front bearings were shot, so I replaced the hub assemblies with the integrated wheel speed sensors. All four corners are quiet now. The differential can make noise too, but this is typically a much different sound.

I get my parts from Rock Auto. They have the best prices generally and you can get anything from economy to OEM parts.

Wasn’t sure of rock or a1 autos quality

 

[Mototech77]

Wasn’t sure of rock or a1 autos quality

They have a wide range of options from economy to daily driver, and even upgrade/performance categories for some items. You can buy low quality parts, but I select brands from the daily driver group that I know to be of good quality, and shy away from the economy group. Sometimes they will even specify that a particular part is the OEM supplier, etc. I've been using them for years and won't go anywhere else unless I am in a situation where I absolutely can't wait for shipping.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

The quality of a part has little to do with where you buy it, but rather the company that manufactured the part.

You can often get the exact same parts from many places for a range of prices. Local shops will almost always be more expensive than online prices if you can wait for the normal shipping times. People who work at local shops get paid like everyone else and so there are added expenses. You will most always get high quality parts from a dealer, but these will also be the most expensive in most every case.

Post what you are looking for here and there are many members who can tell you the best parts to get for your budget.

LMHmedchem

Front hub assemblies

 

[Mototech77]

Front hub assemblies

I installed the WJB heavy duty assemblies in Feb of 2019. Have been good for me.

Part: WA515050HD $60.79 ea. (10% Instant rebate right now, so about $55 each)

2004 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Wheel Bearing & Hub | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[LMHmedchem]

Front hub assemblies

From RockAuto, these are the parts/brands I would want on my truck. This is more or less in order of what I consider quality from best, to a little bit less best. All of these include the ABS sensor and cable.

*** 102001 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($140.79 +ship)
SKF BR930456 X-Tracker Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($101.79 +ship, these are on sale)
MOOG 515050 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($119.79 +ship)
TIMKEN SP470200 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($110.99 +ship)

Shipping is always billed separately at RockAuto. Be careful if you are ordering allot of parts because they can ship from different locations and it can add up.

Just to note, the SKF and Timken parts do NOT include new mounting bolts (at least they are not pictured in the part listing). These are bolts that are supposed to be replaced every time they are removed so you would need to get bolts elsewhere if you get one of those parts. The bolts are M12x1.75 at 60mm long and need to be class 10.9 steel.

I just got 2 of the SKF, so I ordered a pack of these from McMaster-Carr,

10x Black-Phosphate Coated Class 10.9 Steel Flanged Hex Bolt M12x1.75x60mm ($12.52 +ship)

With the shipping for the hubs and bolts, this came to about $115 per hub which I think is a good deal. SKF is a Swedish brand with a reputation for high quality. If the SKF were not on sale, I probably would have got the Moog, which are also a good deal that includes the bolts. Frankly, I would be happy with any of the above on my truck.

You can always get a 5% off discount code for RockAuto from RetailMeNot, or someone here can post one.

Others may suggest parts that they like better than the above or have had good luck with. I think the list above will not elicit much complaint from anyone concerning quality. I think that most here would advise against going with anything from the "Economy" section with the possible exception of the Motorcraft service design part. I will qualify that by saying that there are many cases where repairs need to be made and there is only so much budget available and it may be necessary to use what you can get.

It is recommended to replace the axle nut every time it is removed.

Ford Hub Retainer Nut W706540S900 ($10.44)

This is because it's a distorted thread locknut. The nut is actually bent a bit so it is hard to force on and fits very tightly. This quality is lost after it has been installed and removed and so should be replaced. It's silly and annoying that Ford charges $10 plus shipping for these. You can get the Dorman or Durago version of this part from RockAuto (look under suspension > spindle nut) but I am not a fan of Dorman parts for anything important. I have never used Durago so I will let someone else comment on that. Moog and SKF provide new axle nuts with their rear knuckle/hub/bearing assemblies, so it's a shame they don't include them with their front hub/bearings. I don't know where to get them either.

LMHmedchem

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

From RockAuto, these are the parts/brands I would want on my truck. This is more or less in order of what I consider quality from best, to a little bit less best. All of these include the ABS sensor and cable.

*** 102001 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($140.79 +ship)
SKF BR930456 X-Tracker Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($101.79 +ship, these are on sale)
MOOG 515050 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($119.79 +ship)
TIMKEN SP470200 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($110.99 +ship)

Shipping is always billed separately at RockAuto. Be careful if you are ordering allot of parts because they can ship from different locations and it can add up.

Just to note, the SKF and Timken parts do NOT include new mounting bolts (at least they are not pictured in the part listing). These are bolts that are supposed to be replaced every time they are removed so you would need to get bolts elsewhere if you get one of those parts. The bolts are M12x1.75 at 60mm long and need to be class 10.9 steel.

I just got 2 of the SKF, so I ordered a pack of these from McMaster-Carr,

10x Black-Phosphate Coated Class 10.9 Steel Flanged Hex Bolt M12x1.75x60mm ($12.52 +ship)

With the shipping for the hubs and bolts, this came to about $115 per hub which I think is a good deal. SKF is a Swedish brand with a reputation for high quality. If the SKF were not on sale, I probably would have got the Moog, which are also a good deal that includes the bolts. Frankly, I would be happy with any of the above on my truck.

You can always get a 5% off discount code for RockAuto from RetailMeNot, or someone here can post one.

Others may suggest parts that they like better than the above or have had good luck with. I think the list above will not elicit much complaint from anyone concerning quality. I think that most here would advise against going with anything from the "Economy" section with the possible exception of the Motorcraft service design part. I will qualify that by saying that there are many cases where repairs need to be made and there is only so much budget available and it may be necessary to use what you can get.

It is recommended to replace the axle nut every time it is removed.

Ford Hub Retainer Nut W706540S900 ($10.44)

This is because it's a distorted thread locknut. The nut is actually bent a bit so it is hard to force on and fits very tightly. This quality is lost after it has been installed and removed and so should be replaced. It's silly and annoying that Ford charges $10 plus shipping for these. You can get the Dorman or Durago version of this part from RockAuto (look under suspension > spindle nut) but I am not a fan of Dorman parts for anything important. I have never used Durago so I will let someone else comment on that. Moog and SKF provide new axle nuts with their rear knuckle/hub/bearing assemblies, so it's a shame they don't include them with their front hub/bearings. I don't know where to get them either.

LMHmedchem

I have rear wheel drive Eddie Bauer edition with cv axles in rear so not sure I have an axle nut on front.

 

[LMHmedchem]

I have rear wheel drive Eddie Bauer edition with cv axles in rear so not sure I have an axle nut on front.

No, I suspect that you don't. It looks like the same part is used for 2WD and 4WD. You should have a look at your setup before buying anything. It never hurts to double check.

LMHmedchem

 

[Mototech77]

From RockAuto, these are the parts/brands I would want on my truck. This is more or less in order of what I consider quality from best, to a little bit less best. All of these include the ABS sensor and cable.

*** 102001 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($140.79 +ship)
SKF BR930456 X-Tracker Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($101.79 +ship, these are on sale)
MOOG 515050 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($119.79 +ship)
TIMKEN SP470200 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($110.99 +ship)

Shipping is always billed separately at RockAuto. Be careful if you are ordering allot of parts because they can ship from different locations and it can add up.

Just to note, the SKF and Timken parts do NOT include new mounting bolts (at least they are not pictured in the part listing). These are bolts that are supposed to be replaced every time they are removed so you would need to get bolts elsewhere if you get one of those parts. The bolts are M12x1.75 at 60mm long and need to be class 10.9 steel.

I just got 2 of the SKF, so I ordered a pack of these from McMaster-Carr,

10x Black-Phosphate Coated Class 10.9 Steel Flanged Hex Bolt M12x1.75x60mm ($12.52 +ship)

With the shipping for the hubs and bolts, this came to about $115 per hub which I think is a good deal. SKF is a Swedish brand with a reputation for high quality. If the SKF were not on sale, I probably would have got the Moog, which are also a good deal that includes the bolts. Frankly, I would be happy with any of the above on my truck.

You can always get a 5% off discount code for RockAuto from RetailMeNot, or someone here can post one.

Others may suggest parts that they like better than the above or have had good luck with. I think the list above will not elicit much complaint from anyone concerning quality. I think that most here would advise against going with anything from the "Economy" section with the possible exception of the Motorcraft service design part. I will qualify that by saying that there are many cases where repairs need to be made and there is only so much budget available and it may be necessary to use what you can get.

It is recommended to replace the axle nut every time it is removed.

Ford Hub Retainer Nut W706540S900 ($10.44)

This is because it's a distorted thread locknut. The nut is actually bent a bit so it is hard to force on and fits very tightly. This quality is lost after it has been installed and removed and so should be replaced. It's silly and annoying that Ford charges $10 plus shipping for these. You can get the Dorman or Durago version of this part from RockAuto but I am not a fan of Dorman parts for anything important. I have never used Durago so I will let someone else comment on that. Moog and SKF provide new axle nuts with their rear knuckle assemblies, so it's a shame they don't include them with their front bearings. I don't know where to get them either.

LMHmedche

From RockAuto, these are the parts/brands I would want on my truck. This is more or less in order of what I consider quality from best, to a little bit less best. All of these include the ABS sensor and cable.

*** 102001 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($140.79 +ship)
SKF BR930456 X-Tracker Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($101.79 +ship, these are on sale)
MOOG 515050 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($119.79 +ship)
TIMKEN SP470200 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($110.99 +ship)

Shipping is always billed separately at RockAuto. Be careful if you are ordering allot of parts because they can ship from different locations and it can add up.

Just to note, the SKF and Timken parts do NOT include new mounting bolts (at least they are not pictured in the part listing). These are bolts that are supposed to be replaced every time they are removed so you would need to get bolts elsewhere if you get one of those parts. The bolts are M12x1.75 at 60mm long and need to be class 10.9 steel.

I just got 2 of the SKF, so I ordered a pack of these from McMaster-Carr,

10x Black-Phosphate Coated Class 10.9 Steel Flanged Hex Bolt M12x1.75x60mm ($12.52 +ship)

With the shipping for the hubs and bolts, this came to about $115 per hub which I think is a good deal. SKF is a Swedish brand with a reputation for high quality. If the SKF were not on sale, I probably would have got the Moog, which are also a good deal that includes the bolts. Frankly, I would be happy with any of the above on my truck.

You can always get a 5% off discount code for RockAuto from RetailMeNot, or someone here can post one.

Others may suggest parts that they like better than the above or have had good luck with. I think the list above will not elicit much complaint from anyone concerning quality. I think that most here would advise against going with anything from the "Economy" section with the possible exception of the Motorcraft service design part. I will qualify that by saying that there are many cases where repairs need to be made and there is only so much budget available and it may be necessary to use what you can get.

It is recommended to replace the axle nut every time it is removed.

Ford Hub Retainer Nut W706540S900 ($10.44)

This is because it's a distorted thread locknut. The nut is actually bent a bit so it is hard to force on and fits very tightly. This quality is lost after it has been installed and removed and so should be replaced. It's silly and annoying that Ford charges $10 plus shipping for these. You can get the Dorman or Durago version of this part from RockAuto (look under suspension > spindle nut) but I am not a fan of Dorman parts for anything important. I have never used Durago so I will let someone else comment on that. Moog and SKF provide new axle nuts with their rear knuckle/hub/bearing assemblies, so it's a shame they don't include them with their front hub/bearings. I don't know where to get them either.

LMHmedchem

I have rear wheel drive Eddie Bauer edition with cv axles in rear so not sure I have an axle nut on front.

2WD does not need axle nuts for the front hubs. The part is the same as LMHmedchem said, but there is no CV axle going through splined shaft hole in the 2WD application. I am a big fan of the Moog parts, and would recommend this route or one of the other brands mentioned if you plan to keep the truck for a while and have the funds. I used the cheaper brand at the time as I was on a tight budget.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

I found a post about friction modifier and fluid in differential. I went a shop today and the mechanic stated it’s making a noise in the rear but only when turning. Grinding noise at rear wheels when turning - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

It sounds like you are trying to pull a trailer with brakes on. It appears to be noise from the rear and when turning. (Maybe primarily at low speed turns) it’s also like you want to be easy with acceleration bc it feels like you are spinning tires.
how do I know if I have limited slip???

I did order the front wheel hub assemblies.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

I know for a fact I went to two shops for rear bearings. I know one shop for sure using a hammer and torch and no press. I know for sure at least one used the same axle nuts bc I supplied the parts and didn’t supply axle nuts.

Differential fluid?

I was told one rear cv axle was changed before I bought it. And I paid for two rear bearings.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

From RockAuto, these are the parts/brands I would want on my truck. This is more or less in order of what I consider quality from best, to a little bit less best. All of these include the ABS sensor and cable.

*** 102001 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($140.79 +ship)
SKF BR930456 X-Tracker Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($101.79 +ship, these are on sale)
MOOG 515050 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($119.79 +ship)
TIMKEN SP470200 Front Wheel Bearing & Hub ($110.99 +ship)

Shipping is always billed separately at RockAuto. Be careful if you are ordering allot of parts because they can ship from different locations and it can add up.

Just to note, the SKF and Timken parts do NOT include new mounting bolts (at least they are not pictured in the part listing). These are bolts that are supposed to be replaced every time they are removed so you would need to get bolts elsewhere if you get one of those parts. The bolts are M12x1.75 at 60mm long and need to be class 10.9 steel.

I just got 2 of the SKF, so I ordered a pack of these from McMaster-Carr,

10x Black-Phosphate Coated Class 10.9 Steel Flanged Hex Bolt M12x1.75x60mm ($12.52 +ship)

With the shipping for the hubs and bolts, this came to about $115 per hub which I think is a good deal. SKF is a Swedish brand with a reputation for high quality. If the SKF were not on sale, I probably would have got the Moog, which are also a good deal that includes the bolts. Frankly, I would be happy with any of the above on my truck.

You can always get a 5% off discount code for RockAuto from RetailMeNot, or someone here can post one.

Others may suggest parts that they like better than the above or have had good luck with. I think the list above will not elicit much complaint from anyone concerning quality. I think that most here would advise against going with anything from the "Economy" section with the possible exception of the Motorcraft service design part. I will qualify that by saying that there are many cases where repairs need to be made and there is only so much budget available and it may be necessary to use what you can get.

It is recommended to replace the axle nut every time it is removed.

Ford Hub Retainer Nut W706540S900 ($10.44)

This is because it's a distorted thread locknut. The nut is actually bent a bit so it is hard to force on and fits very tightly. This quality is lost after it has been installed and removed and so should be replaced. It's silly and annoying that Ford charges $10 plus shipping for these. You can get the Dorman or Durago version of this part from RockAuto (look under suspension > spindle nut) but I am not a fan of Dorman parts for anything important. I have never used Durago so I will let someone else comment on that. Moog and SKF provide new axle nuts with their rear knuckle/hub/bearing assemblies, so it's a shame they don't include them with their front hub/bearings. I don't know where to get them either.

LMHmedchem

Makes noise in rear when turning at low speeds. It sounds like you are towing a trailer with the brakes engaged. I know the e brake pad fell out at one shop and they left it on the ground. It’s an irritating sound like nails on chalk board.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

I received a tsb stating it may be clutch packs in the differential. I was told clutches are not available to buy.
going to try gear oil and friction modifier.

When turning at low speed sounds like you are trying to tow a trailer with the brakes on trailer engaged.

 

[Mototech77]

So many things it could be. Mine made a lot of noise when I bought it, and In the end, I had a few things making noise that have been resolved. My parking brake shoes were bare when the rear wheel bearings and CV axles were done, so they got replaced also. Makes me wonder if they had an issue from the factory with the bonding on the friction material since yours fell off, too. The last noise that had to be resolved was a random scraping sound that turned out to be the brake dust shield interfering with the rotor, so they were tweaked out a bit to make them clear.

I have never heard a diff make "nails on a chalk board" sound, so I tend to think of more external things.

I'll throw out some additional information for kicks, though. I hope it turns out to be something cheaper for you.

I have an open diff, and the only noise it makes now is the howling at about 60 mph under load. I think the bearings are smooth but worn enough that the lash adjustment is out. These diffs came with insufficient lubricant from the factory and were updated with a TSB, but I wonder if it came out too late.

Try this page to help identify your diff so you know if you have LS or open:

Identify Your Ford Truck Axle From The Door Sticker - Blue Oval Trucks

There’s no question, the easiest way to identify the axle and gear ratio in your truck is from the door sticker. If you open the drivers door and look at the door jamb, you’ll see a sticker like the one … Continued

www.blueovaltrucks.com

Draining your fluid and putting in clean good quality replacement certainly won't hurt, especially if you don't know when it was done last. Worst case, you lose the cost of the fluid, but you can check it off the list and it will give you a chance to see the condition of what is in it now and see if there is a lot of metal in it, etc. If the noise does turn out to be the diff, it will likely need to be rebuilt. This is not a do-it-yourself job from what I've seen. It takes special tools and skills to get the lash set properly. I've seen it done and kind of want to learn how, but I've also seen professional mechanics that were specially trained in this area screw up the job, so I think it is probably more difficult than it looks. You can buy rebuilt diffs, open and LS from Rock Auto and I'm sure other places. To get it out, you have to disassemble part of the rear suspension and pull the CV axles. Part of the reason I haven't fixed mine yet.

2003 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Axle / Differential Assembly | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

(I know there are other good part sources, but this is my go-to place)

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

So many things it could be. Mine made a lot of noise when I bought it, and In the end, I had a few things making noise that have been resolved. My parking brake shoes were bare when the rear wheel bearings and CV axles were done, so they got replaced also. Makes me wonder if they had an issue from the factory with the bonding on the friction material since yours fell off, too. The last noise that had to be resolved was a random scraping sound that turned out to be the brake dust shield interfering with the rotor, so they were tweaked out a bit to make them clear.

I have never heard a diff make "nails on a chalk board" sound, so I tend to think of more external things.

I'll throw out some additional information for kicks, though. I hope it turns out to be something cheaper for you.

I have an open diff, and the only noise it makes now is the howling at about 60 mph under load. I think the bearings are smooth but worn enough that the lash adjustment is out. These diffs came with insufficient lubricant from the factory and were updated with a TSB, but I wonder if it came out too late.

Try this page to help identify your diff so you know if you have LS or open:

Identify Your Ford Truck Axle From The Door Sticker - Blue Oval Trucks

There’s no question, the easiest way to identify the axle and gear ratio in your truck is from the door sticker. If you open the drivers door and look at the door jamb, you’ll see a sticker like the one … Continued

www.blueovaltrucks.com

Draining your fluid and putting in clean good quality replacement certainly won't hurt, especially if you don't know when it was done last. Worst case, you lose the cost of the fluid, but you can check it off the list and it will give you a chance to see the condition of what is in it now and see if there is a lot of metal in it, etc. If the noise does turn out to be the diff, it will likely need to be rebuilt. This is not a do-it-yourself job from what I've seen. It takes special tools and skills to get the lash set properly. I've seen it done and kind of want to learn how, but I've also seen professional mechanics that were specially trained in this area screw up the job, so I think it is probably more difficult than it looks. You can buy rebuilt diffs, open and LS from Rock Auto and I'm sure other places. To get it out, you have to disassemble part of the rear suspension and pull the CV axles. Part of the reason I haven't fixed mine yet.

2003 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Axle / Differential Assembly | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

(I know there are other good part sources, but this is my go-to place)

Sounds like towing a trailer with the brakes on one shop mentioned the clutch packs in the differential. I’m saying the sound is irritating like nails on chalkboard.

 

[Mototech77]

Sounds like towing a trailer with the brakes on one shop mentioned the clutch packs in the differential. I’m saying the sound is irritating like nails on chalkboard.

Gotcha. Given what I can understand from your description, this does not sound like differential noise. If it were me, I would be removing the rear wheels to inspect the brakes (disc and parking drum) for pad wear indicator tabs, dust shield rubbing, misadjusted parking brake and shoe condition, etc. Also look to see if there could possibly be something interfering with the CV axles (seems less likely, but best not to rule anything out, especially if the mechanic’s work quality was sub-standard). Also, if you are not 100% sure that the noise is from the rear, check the front pads to make sure you aren’t down to the wear tabs.

 

[Floridaexplorer43]

Gotcha. Given what I can understand from your description, this does not sound like differential noise. If it were me, I would be removing the rear wheels to inspect the brakes (disc and parking drum) for pad wear indicator tabs, dust shield rubbing, misadjusted parking brake and shoe condition, etc. Also look to see if there could possibly be something interfering with the CV axles (seems less likely, but best not to rule anything out, especially if the mechanic’s work quality was sub-standard). Also, if you are not 100% sure that the noise is from the rear, check the front pads to make sure you aren’t down to the wear tabs.

There’s a tsb about this issue (differential clutch packs)