2004 Sport Trac - Hard To Start When Cold

[wdh007]

Had problem starting vehicle last winter. Had no problem starting vehicle in the spring or summer, but when it got cool this fall, and into this winter, I have the same problem of starting vehicle on first start of the day or when vehicle has been sitting in cold for awhile. The only way it will start under those conditions is to spray starting fluid in the air intake. A local independent mechanic replaced the fuel filter and diagnosed problem as P1233, and suggested I take it to the Ford dealership, where they diagnosed the problem as "Freeze frame data showed that fuel rail pressure when code set was .389 PSI. Needs fuel pump replaced." They wanted $800 to replace the fuel pump, so I bought one and replaced it myself. Unfortunately, this did not resolve the problem. Any suggestions on what may be causing this cold weather starting problem?

 

[03_Sport_Trac]

Battery maybe..? Mine had a hard time starting last winter on those cold days where it sat all night. Replaced the battery this summer and I havent had a problem this winter

 

[swetrid]

Ck the inertia switch, also disconnect the wiring from inertia switch and make it sure its not melted. This code could be fuel pump, inertia switch or fuel pump fuse blown.

 

[wdh007]

It is not the battery, that was replaced last year. I checked the inertia switch last week, and it appeared to be fine. If the fuel pump fuse is blown, the fuel pump would not work at all. The fuel pump works fine AFTER the engine is started via spraying starter fluid in the air filter intake. The symptom is that the fuel pump does not appear to initially pump fuel to the engine when cranking cold.

 

[ncranchero]

If you replaced the fuel pump then I'd say IAC valve or leaking injector causing pressure bleed off over night. Turn the ignition switch to ON/OFF/ON several times without cranking the engine, just to let the pump run for a moment before going to START. Does it start immediately after that action? Yes, probably leaking injector/no fuel system okay. Does it run rough after it does start, wanting to stall? Yes, probably IAC/no possibly still IAC. Remove & clean or replace. Buy a can of "Throttle Body Cleaner" and clean the TB while you're at it. DO NOT use carb cleaner.

 

[chad551]

You change the fuel filter lately?

 

[ncranchero]

A local independent mechanic replaced the fuel filter and ..................

Uh, yea-uh !

 

[wdh007]

I cleaned the IAC valve, but that did not help the situation. Will have someone check for leaking injectors per NCRANCHERO's suggestion. Anyone have strong belief that it could be the fuel pump driver module?

 

[ncranchero]

To answer your question, yes. My '02 doesn't have the return-less fuel system and I am not too familiar with problems caused by the fuel pump driver module.

I've been going on the assumption that your mechanic AND Ford dealer gave you correct info. Your mechanic can surely read a scan tool and give you the code. Ford dealership, I believe, is where this gets off track. They may be correct up to that last statement. Did your mechanic clear the code before it was taken to Ford? Surely the dealership mechanic pulled the codes before starting work and is able to read from a DTC manual. If the code was cleared and hadn't reset then a bad fuel pump "could" have been indicated.

A local independent mechanic replaced the fuel filter and diagnosed problem as P1233, and suggested I take it to the Ford dealership, where they diagnosed the problem as "Freeze frame data showed that fuel rail pressure when code set was .389 PSI. Needs fuel pump replaced."

Code P1233, from the 2004 FORD Sport Trac manual:
Fuel System Disabled or Offline

The PCM monitors the fuel pump monitor (FPM) circuit from the fuel pump driver module (FPDM). With the key on, the FPDM continuously sends a duty cycle signal to the PCM through the FPM circuit.The test fails if the PCM stops receiving the duty cycle signal.

I believe you have figured out your problem by yourself.

I "think" what you need is a XR3Z-9D372-AC, if the sticker is still on your old one it should read XR3F-9D372-AE (List $108.). That is based on someone else's research so verify that with the Ford Parts Dept. I do not find that it's available in Motorcraft.

 

[ncranchero]

This isn't indicated from the P1233 code that I see but I'm adding the link here since it's a similar issue and may help someone in the future.
hard 1st start

 

[Gus Gorilla]

^^^^
WDH007, You owe that guy a beer. That is a lot of research and diagnostics just for the hell of it. I agree with ncranchero's direction. It's an easy mistake to make with the changes from returnless to full return systems. You also need to make sure the pump runs when the key turns to RUN position. You should hear it whine a little.

 

[wdh007]

Per NCRANCHERO: "Turn the ignition switch to ON/OFF/ON several times without cranking the engine, just to let the pump run for a moment before going to START. Does it start immediately after that action? Yes, probably leaking injector"

I tried this last evening and again this morning, and the vehicle started both times. It took about 30 ON/OFF cycles, about 10 reps each time of 3 sets.

So, it would appear that leaking injectors (or some type of leak) is the problem. Thank you NCRANCHERO for your helpful input!!!

 

[swetrid]

You could still have fuel pump concern. There is a check valve in the fuel pump assembly that is supposed to keep the fuel pressure from bleeding off and creating hard start. When you replaced the fuel pump did you replace the entire assembly or just install aftermarket pump only and put it into original bracket and sender assembly. If you did just pump that would not have corrected problem.

 

[ncranchero]

swetrid, what are the best indications of the Fuel Pulse Damper failure?

 

[wdh007]

To answer Swetrid, the entire pump assembly was replaced. The culprit appears to be leaking injectors, per NCRanchero.

 

[ncranchero]

To answer Swetrid, the entire pump assembly was replaced. The culprit appears to be leaking injectors, per NCRanchero.

Possibly. Don't bet all your marbles on me. There's a LOT that I don't know......

 

[bdmaash]

yeah, I'd bet a little bit in other places also.

With leaky injectors, I found hard start issues within 1 - ~4 hours after shutoff, progressively getting worse closer to the 4 hour mark. (more fuel to flood the motor)
what was happening is - the engine would get flooded with excessive fuel from the leaky injectors. If the truck wasn't started for a long time, the fuel would drain down eventually, and it would start fine.

I guess the other test would be to floor the gas pedal to open up the throttle body to get more air in when starting - if it is a flooding condition, or pull the fuel pump fuse or relay so no more fuel is added during startup.

 

[KansasBoy]

Having same (if not super similar) problem with my '02 ST, Took 40+ ON/OFF turns this morning to get it to make the right noise from behind me (fuel pump) so that the truck would start!?!? I've changed the whole assembly, checked relays, iat, and inertia switch... This is driving me nuts having to flip ON/OFF every time I have to cold start the thing, and it seems to be getting worse cause it's starting to happen faster after each turn off (assuming cause of temp)!

 

[bdmaash]

if you're having issues with the fuel pump priming
a good test would be to bypass the relay with a wire to see if the pump will prime. This will tell you where to look for the problem.
(priming meaning the fuel pump running)

The relay is just a switch (electronically controlled, check out http://www.the12volt.com/ to learn how they work)

If it primes either the relay or the control for the relay (wiring / ecm) is the problem.

If the fuel pump does not prime, it will be the wiring from the relay to the fuel pump or the fuel pump assembly.

other possibilities not mentioned fuse, fuel pressure sensor if there's one.

 

[KansasBoy]

Right after my post I went to the store and purchased a relay to see if possibly the fuel pump relay (even though it was clicking on) had an internal issue that was causing the issue... It was indeed the Relay, even though it was clicking it wasn't internally making the proper connection to supply power! Truck's good as new! Thanks