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2004 Sport trac

spetersen

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2004 Ford Sport Trac
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Well.. The main thing wrong is a leak at the rear of the passenger valve cover, and maybe a minor leak at the passenger rear timing chain tensioner( but it may still be coming from the valve cover also). It does not overheat, I think the PO saw the smoke from the leak dripping on the exhaust,
The gas gauge is still not clear as to whether it is off, it seems to be working, but I will keep a small can of gas in the back until it runs out, so I can check it
 



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swshawaii

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'05 Sport Trac XLS (RWD)
Instant sign of a valve cover leak is fresh oil or stains ABOVE the rear hydraulic tensioner. Almost always leaks towards the rear of the cover being so close to the exhaust manifold heat. Hydraulic tensioner very unlikely to loosen after it's tightened and sealed.
 






Fix4Dirt

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Well.. The main thing wrong is a leak at the rear of the passenger valve cover, and maybe a minor leak at the passenger rear timing chain tensioner( but it may still be coming from the valve cover also). It does not overheat, I think the PO saw the smoke from the leak dripping on the exhaust,
The gas gauge is still not clear as to whether it is off, it seems to be working, but I will keep a small can of gas in the back until it runs out, so I can check it
them tensioners if you do it and nick the metal ten it leaks badly and its vedy annoying, i hope its the VC for ya
 






BenII

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Hey S, if you're hoping to save some gas be sure to do the brown wire mod. You cut the wire where it comes out of the transfer case and run the two up into the console to a toggle. This way when in two wheel drive it turns off the axles in front saving $$. If you ever have to put chains in the engine (4.0) I can show you how to advance the cams 2-3 degrees for more torque (saves gas too). I did this on my 03 exploder and it pulls out with a hint of throttle. I enjoy it now.
I'm a new member here, but I'm a longtime Ranger owner, I am getting the Explorer next week. I'm sure I will be needing a little support getting it back in shape
 






spetersen

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I will have to try that, sounds like a great mod!
 






swshawaii

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The first 2 are the fuel gauge is erratic, and the second it that it overheats, so the thermostat is likely the first new part to be installed.
How likely is a bad head gasket on a 4.0 SHC?
Forgot to mention the first cooling system part to fail in 2001-05 Sport Tracs is almost always the plastic LOWER THERMOSTAT HOUSING splitting it's seams. Very rarely will they last longer than ten years without leaking. Use a small mirror and light to inspect for powdery white residue from coolant. Very common for the coolant to get trapped inside the intake valley without ever hitting the ground. The non OEM aluminum housings appear to be replacements of choice for most. Do a search on EF. MANY threads, here's just one:
How To Replace the Upper and Lower Thermostat Housing on a Ford 4.0L V6 SOHC Engine
 






spetersen

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I'll check for that, after I do the valve cover gasket, Thanks!
 






swshawaii

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^ May want to reconsider your priorities. A small oil leak isn't catastrophic but can be a PITA. I know because I have a tiny rear main seal leak at 85,000 miles dripping on the front cat. Do I really want to remove the engine to replace a $20 seal or just leave oil absorbent on the floor? Kitty litter is an easy choice for me, at least for right now. YMMV.

Depending how bad it's overheating, blown head gaskets on these trucks are borderline write offs, or engine removal at the very least to R & R.
 






spetersen

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It actually does not overheat (see post 21), The PO thought the smoke from the oil leak meant it was overheating, it does not lose coolant.
The main things are the gas gauge in the cluster is bad, I reset it once with the startup test, and the next time it stopped moving.
The valve cover on the Pass side leaks, the front doors electric locks don't work, the driver's window "falls crooked" when it is lowered.
I also only have one working chip key, the other one will work if I use the remote start to bypass the chip, and that's about it.
 






Mbrooks420

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You probably have a key box somewhere under the dash with another programmed key in it. This is how almost all of the earlier alarms handled the PATS. If you find this, you can program the spare key.
 






swshawaii

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Regarding door locks. Definitely NOT one of Explorer's stronger points. Latches, actuators, and plastic linkages are notorious for failing. I've replaced three latches and all four actuators in the first five years of ownership since buying used in 2009 with 46,000 miles. I keep all latches clean, lubed, moving freely, and am the only occupant 95% of the time when my truck is used. Tackle one problem at a time and post when you're ready to diagnose the locks. Glad to help, plenty of experience with repairing door locks here. LOL
 






spetersen

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Gasket 1st, maybe gas gauge(cluster) next, maybe the driver's window. i an not sure if the regulator, or the track is the issue, I'll se when I get the door apart.
 






429CJ-3X2

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If the non-working key is an aftermarket key, the battery in it may be dead. Easy to replace.
 






spetersen

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The standard key has a battery?
 






Mbrooks420

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The standard key has a battery?
No. That’s why he said aftermarket. And, it’s not all aftermarket, it’s only the crappy ones.
 






spetersen

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1 of the 2 keys I received does not work, for some reason, it looks like a factory key, but could be a knock-off.
My OBD2 scanner seems to be able to program keys, but I an reluctant to possibly erase the only good key I have
I want to bring the nonworking key to someplace to see if the chip is detected, before I attempt to program it.
 






Mbrooks420

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The battery keys are obvious, and have a removable cover with a watch battery. These aren’t typical PATS keys, they are a clone of one of your keys. A typical PATS key has a unique code.
 






spetersen

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Finished the passenger's valve cover, no leaks now(Yay!) What a PITA, The next thing is the driver's window, when it is lowered, it falls crooked. does this have a cable type of regulator, or the metal sector type?
 






swshawaii

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Good job. Passenger valve cover gasket replacement was a PITA for me too. I'm lowered 3 inches and can't imagine doing it on a stock height Sport Trac. Being 5' 5" doesn't help me either. LOL

Haven't repaired window glass or a regulator yet, but this thread may help.
Also see "Similar threads" on the bottom of the linked page below. GL
 



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spetersen

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Goshen, NY
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Goshen
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Ford Sport Trac
Callsign
2011 Sonata
Good job. Passenger valve cover gasket replacement was a PITA for me too. I'm lowered 3 inches and can't imagine doing it on a stock height Sport Trac. Being 5' 5" doesn't help me either. LOL

Haven't repaired window glass or a regulator yet, but this thread may help.
Also see "Similar threads" on the bottom of the linked page below. GL
I found the tow hooks are actually steps so you can climb into the engine compartment.
i removed the inner fender to get some of the bolts out.
There was more "junk" in the way than I ever had before, it must have been a game for the engineers to figure out how much harder they could make a simple thing, like spark plugs and valve cover gaskets, not to mention cam chains.
 






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