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2004 Sport trac

Turdle

The Lowrider is a little higher
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Fixed the thermometer and compass, where is the sender for the temp, it seems to be off?
There are 2 for coolant temp. One for computer, and, one for gauge.

The gauge sender usually has one wire.
The "engine coolant temp sensor has 2.

For more accurate temp readings , a scangauge II works great. It also monitors trans temp with a digital readout, many more gauges inside. With it you know exactly what coolant temp is

Edit, I misread. The outside temp sensor is indeed behind the bumper.

In the summertime it may read high on occasionally from various heat soak conditions.
 



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spetersen

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I looked for the release handles under the tonneau cover, but I don't see them. Has anyone opened the cover from underneath?
I have seen that sensor, now I know what it is for, Thanks! I will look for a new one.
 






429CJ-3X2

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I had the same question a few months ago about a cover in the salvage yard. I ended up using needle nose pliers to grab the cable through an opening in the latch. You could grab the cable any place where the cable is exposed.

Turdle, your answer wasn't relevant to his question, but it answered one I have. I have a code on my '01 indicating the engine temp sensor for the computer is bad, but none of the listings I've seen from the parts stores or on ebay say which sensor is which. Thank you!
 






spetersen

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The front lock feels like it works, but the catches don't release, it may just need some lube as in the other post, I'll try it and see
 












Fix4Dirt

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@BenII there is no message only a quote
 






spetersen

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Just curious, is the bed under the liner like a regular pickup?
 






410Fortune

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good question! I know the bed is fiberglass not steel like a Ranger but I have never seen one with the "liner" removed and I have two of them outside!!
 






429CJ-3X2

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The box is composite (plastic), not fiberglass, with a minimal steel support structure under the skin. The "liner" is the bed. The box without the tailgate doesn't weigh much. I'd guess 150# max, probably less. Two average guys can pick it up and carry it without much difficulty.
 






spetersen

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Thanks!, I was wondering how it was put together.
 






410Fortune

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I like plastic, I wish the whole body was plastic, no rust and can still be welded!!
 






spetersen

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I can certainly agree that plastic has it's place as body panels, I had a 2002 Saturn SL1 with 260,000 miles, and 20 years and the body panels looked nearly new, while the hood and trunk were peeling, and had some rust. I sold it still running pretty good, but it was getting tired.
The front lock on the tonneau cover has the classic cable, lock problem, I have to take it apart and fix that too, in the mean time, I will have to hook a rope to the emergency release handle.
 






spetersen

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Hi everyone!
I have a new problem, I lost brakes today, the metal line going from the ABS pump to "I think" the front right wheel rusted out under the plastic ribbed insulation. Does anyone know if it is one piece to the brake hose mount? I was also thinking of cleaning out the reservoir while the system is empty, does it just pull out of the master cylinder? Do I need to use a scan took to bleed the ABS pump? what brake fluid should I use?
Thanks!
Side note: I saw another Sport Trac today, almost exactly like mine, but less rust, I though these were pretty rare, maybe I just never noticed before.
 












spetersen

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I didn't see anything else bad, even the bad one was hidden by the joint to the plastic covering
Edit:
The plastic covering is actually a rubber flexible joint, the line is one piece from the ABS pump to the RT front brake hose.
I was able to order it from Village Ford for $33 delivered, hard to find it elsewhere. Motorcraft BRTF71
 






429CJ-3X2

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Download Forscan to a laptop to bleed the ABS. You'll need an inexpensive dongle to connect the truck to the laptop.
 






spetersen

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I have a Creader 9081 that claims to be able to do it, we will see.... Tomorrow while waiting for the line, I will take off the reservoir and clean it, it's filthy
 






spetersen

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Brakes fixed, ABS seems to not need bleeding, I have a good pedal after standard bleeding, The part was on backorder 'till who knows when, so I had to make the line from generic parts.
I have another new problem, the circuit that powers the radio, and cluster blacked out twice in the last week, I tried moving the key to the start position while this happened, but there were no changes, so it's not likely the ignition switch, if it happens again I will see if the power windows work, to help narrow it down.
Maybe a bad relay, we will see....
 






spetersen

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So... the aux power problem is happening more often now that it is getting cooler out, it seems to happen within the first 10 minutes of a drive, and it seems to stop when the truck is warmed up, The power is cut to the radio, AC, power windows, cluster except for tach, and automatic headlights.
The blinkers and manual headlights seem unaffected.
I think the aux power relay is above my right leg under the radio, but I'm not sure, I was not able to get the cover off the box easily, i also didn't have much time to work on it yet. Is the relay controlled by the ECM?
 



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spetersen

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So... the problem with the radio, power windows and gauges going out is the cluster, I guess it's a common problem,
I re-soldered a bunch of connections, If it doesn't work I'll have to send it out.
The blown backup light fuse was the overdrive wire to the button, it was the tiniest wear through i have ever seen, I missed it several times looking for it.
 






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