2004 Sport trac | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

2004 Sport trac

Windows are held by clamps front and rear,to solid bottom bar. Biggest reason for clocking is one pulled loose, probably from a sticking front or rear guide rail. After fixing the clamp ( good , thick rubberized 3M 2 sided tape) , lube the rails with silicone foam.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I took the door panel off, and the scissor had come out of the slider on the window track, the arm is also bent, with great force(a c clamp) I was able to press the ball back in the nylon slide, I straightened the arm as best I could, and it seems to work, except for the window sticks in the tracks a little, after silicon lube things should be good.
I will have to be careful with it when it freezes out, up works better than down, as far as smoothness.
Now for the lock motor...
 






If you've determined the door lock actuator is faulty buy the least expensive replacement you can find. Link below explains.
Remove the glass run channel. I suggest cutting the latch rod connector off the faulty actuator with diagonal cutters to simplify replacement.
Cut the white plastic just above the rubber boot (bellows). Much easier than replacing with everything connected.
 






removing the actuator was much easier than I expected, I removed the window channel, and stuck a screwdriver between the mounting bracket,and actuator, and rolled it out of there, then removed the connector, and tilted the actuator up to unhook it from the nylon bushing, now waiting for the replacements.
I took it apart to satisfy my curiosity as to what was in it, the motor was just stuck, a little rust in the bearing.
I already ordered new ones for both front doors.

IMG_20220726_134458809_HDR.jpg
 






Hey S, if you're hoping to save some gas be sure to do the brown wire mod. You cut the wire where it comes out of the transfer case and run the two up into the console to a toggle. This way when in two wheel drive it turns off the axles in front saving $$. If you ever have to put chains in the engine (4.0) I can show you how to advance the cams 2-3 degrees for more torque (saves gas too). I did this on my 03 exploder and it pulls out with a hint of throttle. I enjoy it now.
My truck has a 2H position on the control, would I still get any improvement with the brown wire mod?
 






Nice work @spetersen! As you can see these actuators are NOT very stout. Interesting thing is it's usually the nylon gears that strip and fail before anything on them.

Rear actuator kicked my butt because of much tighter space and rear window channels that are NOT removeable. Plenty of cuts and four letter words replacing the rear actuator.
 






You probably have a key box somewhere under the dash with another programmed key in it. This is how almost all of the earlier alarms handled the PATS. If you find this, you can program the spare key.
You are a God among men!.. when I removed the lower panel to repair the gas gauge, there behind the cover was a key taped to the wiring harness, the spare key! Thanks!
 






Next....

spedo.jpg
 






My truck has a 2H position on the control, would I still get any improvement with the brown wire mod?
do you have 2H, 4a, and 4l? in that case in 2h you will see no improvement with a BWM since its a CAD axle and theyre disconnected fully.
 






do you have 2H, 4a, and 4l? in that case in 2h you will see no improvement with a BWM since its a CAD axle and theyre disconnected fully.
Yes, 2H,4H,4L..
 












do you have 2H, 4a, and 4l? in that case in 2h you will see no improvement with a BWM since its a CAD axle and theyre disconnected fully.
Just because he has a 2wd doesn’t mean it has the vacuum disconnect axle. Those will only be on 95 and 96s.
 






You are a God among men!.. when I removed the lower panel to repair the gas gauge, there behind the cover was a key taped to the wiring harness, the spare key! Thanks!
I’d make a 3rd key while it will only cost $15 as opposed to getting a mobile locksmith, or Ford to do it. I’ve had excellent luck with the Stratec keys.
 






Just because he has a 2wd doesn’t mean it has the vacuum disconnect axle. Those will only be on 95 and 96s.
wait really? thats news to me... first i learned that the 1354 was continued past the 2gs and now this: i learn something new all the time! 😂
 






My 98 Ranger had vacuum disconnect(PVH) hubs and they sucked big time, I converted them to manual, as they didn't work.
I will check if this has disconnectable hubs when I get a minute.
The gas gauge is fixed

IMG_20220726_164446906.jpg IMG_20220726_165431926.jpg IMG_20220726_165615246.jpg
 






I’d make a 3rd key while it will only cost $15 as opposed to getting a mobile locksmith, or Ford to do it. I’ve had excellent luck with the Stratec keys.
I have to get the one I bought, cut first
 






I did the musical chairs with the keys, Walmart cut the key for free, as I bought it through them. It wasn't a great fit, but it works for emergencies, for some reason it does not work taped into the harness, but it does work in the ignition, so it will just be a backup.
 






Moving to the next issue. the cruise control, the on off button is damaged, the part is ordered, but my question is, Is the cruise control light supposed to come on during the cluster test? , key on / start test?
The switch may be the problem, (it feels like it should work) but the cruise control does not work, and the light does not come on.
Edit,
The brake cylinder switch is open with and without brakes applied, found a bad fuse for the running lights while poking around.
Does it use both the pedal, and cylinder switch for the cruise control?
Edit again,
it uses both switches, I bypassed the master cyl switch, and it works fine now, and disengages when the brake is pressed.
The light does not come on during any test, only when the cruise control is working. for future readers

Next is the bed cover, the front lock does not open the cover, and the driver's door handle is hard to open.
 






Fixed the thermometer and compass, where is the sender for the temp, it seems to be off?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





 






Back
Top