2005 4L no start - then what happened - help please

[Argentimage]

OK 2005 - been here since nearly new, was a New Model Launch vehicle at Ford - low vin - all the quality torque checks, etc. Now at 241000 miles.

Yesterday picked up bath stuff at the big box, dropped off, parked in that driveway, on returning no start.

Clicking.
thought - original starter solenoid - tapped the solenoid with long screw driver, then it would not even click.

Starter - changed - what an ordeal to get that upper bolt out!

Finished removal this morning- had to buy / use a 350lb impact right angle driver

We noticed the batter was low, not clear reason why, so we put that on jumpers.

rebuilt starter goes in, wires snugged up

key on start - nothing.

Had my son take screw driver shorted the solenoid small terminal to the top stud - its turning over but for a good while but will not start.

Can not figure this out, removed starter wires, they look good, little grease is better than corroded.

Reinstall - same thing, not a peep when the key turned, but shorting the small terminal and top post it turns over rapidly, with key on it should start?


Any ideas where to go now?

Alternator was change two years ago
battery has 2-3 years

 

[gavingray350]

I would check your fuses first then see if you’re getting any voltage to the solenoid wire at the start when turning the key to crank. These have immobilizers in them so I don’t know if they will start if you jump the starter.

 

[410Fortune]

2005 uses a starter relay
You should check the relay see if it clicks when you turn the key?

Between the key switch and starter there is a relay

Is the theft light flashing? Does it go out when you turn the key to “start”

 

[Argentimage]

We checked fuses

Multimeter check tomorrow as it was forgotten when we went to the vehicle

No theft light noted in the start cycle

It flashes when you lock the vehicle

I’m not sure what you mean by clicks, as is it should or should not?

My son has a code reader, says only code EGR p0403

 

[DintDobbs]

If you crank it and it clicks, replace battery with known good battery and/or jump start from car with known good battery.

2-3 years is all that can be expected from a common battery; I usually buy mid- to high-range (usually between $200-300, some times closer to $400) and like to replace them every 5-ish years. Batteries can also have random defects that shorten their lives, or fry them altogether.

Check the things the other fellas have mentioned here, but when you say the battery is 2-3 years old, I'd look there first.