2005 Mercury Mountaineer AC Clutch issue

[JR4815D2]

Hi,


I have been reading this forum for some time. Great info and helped me in many ways. I searched the forum for a similar problem, but can't figured out what could be wrong. It seems like it could be the AC Clutch with the problem. I did a video to show what the problem is. Whenever I start the AC at low fan the I get a small rattle. If I start the fan at high the rattle is higher. I don't think the problem is the fan. I would like to know how easy it is to replace the AC Clutch and I am also curious to know if the fan clutch has a problem. Outside temp is in the mid 90's and the coolant is reaching 210 degree with the ac on. When the AC isn't on, the temp reads around 200. The vents are shooting 65 degrees or so at 60 degrees AC settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am low on funds, due to a newborn so any savings would help. If I was to get it service at a autoshop how much would it cost?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxNI_XRMtQE

Thanks

2005 Mercury Mountaineer V8

 

[jrford]

Temps should be lower, you most likely low on freon, add a can and see if it gets cooler. When funds permit see if you can take it in and have an A/C service done. While they are doing it you can check the hi/low side pressures and they can put in the right amount. See how cold that gets.

Engine temps with the temps in the 90's 210 isnt bad (pic of gauge or where the needle is at?). Over 210 you have a problem.
The A/C kicks out heat so that why the temps may rise.

A/C clutch, you might have a problem but its still working? I did notice some rust on the pulley that might be an indicator that a wire maybe broken in the magnetic clutch. Had it happen to my heap but it blew fuses when i turned the A/C on. Remove the belt and turn it by hand and see if you can 'feel' anything. A/C clutch is a big magnet that get energized, very simple in some regards.

 

[pet575]

I'm a little confused on what your question is. Are you saying the coolant is too hot or that the cold air blowing isn't cold enough?

Without knowing for sure what you're asking, I'm seeing a compressor which is frequently cycling on/off. The cheapest possibility as to why that might be happening is low refrigerant in the A/C system. This would also explain your interior temp issue.

You could add a significant amount of coolant to the system for less than $50. How many miles on the vehicle?

 

[Exproblems]

Hi,


It seems like it could be the AC Clutch with the problem. I did a video to show what the problem is. Whenever I start the AC at low fan the I get a small rattle. If I start the fan at high the rattle is higher. I don't think the problem is the fan. I would like to know how easy it is to replace the AC Clutch and I am also curious to know if the fan clutch has a problem. Outside temp is in the mid 90's and the coolant is reaching 210 degree with the ac on. When the AC isn't on, the temp reads around 200. The vents are shooting 65 degrees or so at 60 degrees AC settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am low on funds, due to a newborn so any savings would help. If I was to get it service at a autoshop how much would it cost?
Thanks

2005 Mercury Mountaineer V8

You may be low on refrigerant in the system, since your vent outlet temp was 65 degrees and it was 85 degrees outside, only a 20 degree difference in temps. How long was the truck and the AC running when you took that temp reading? Run it for at least 10 minutes then start taking temp readings if you haven't done that yet. You should be getting a 30-40 degree difference between the inner AC vent temp and the actual outside the vehicle temp. Low on refrigerant could also be causing the AC clutch noise, I am not 100% sure on that. A cheap start would be to get a can of refigerant and add some to the system and see how the system reacts(don't overfill the system), by taking new temp/vent readings but you should have someone who knows what they are doing with AC systems, do it for you. You do not want to accidentally get any air into the system. If your AC system is low on refrigerant, you probably have a leak in the system somewhere. Common areas for leaks are the shrader valves/O-ring seals at the high and low pressure access ports and the condensor itself. On the repair job at a shop for an AC clutch or compressor replacement, you will have to call a shop to get that estimate. I would avoid taking it to a Ford dealership because they have much higher hourly labor rates than smaller, privately owned repair shops. You can also try radiator repair shops, because they usually work on AC systems as well and charge a little less per hour for labor than general repair shops. The ones in my area do.

 

[JR4815D2]

I'm a little confused on what your question is. Are you saying the coolant is too hot or that the cold air blowing isn't cold enough?

Without knowing for sure what you're asking, I'm seeing a compressor which is frequently cycling on/off. The cheapest possibility as to why that might be happening is low refrigerant in the A/C system. This would also explain your interior temp issue.

You could add a significant amount of coolant to the system for less than $50. How many miles on the vehicle?

Thank you for everyone responds.

I apologize for the confusion. Cold air is coming out between 65 and 70 at the settings of 60 degrees and full blast air. The coolant is reading at 210 degrees when the AC is on. Normal reading is 197 degrees.

As for the clutch, it runs at all time without the frequent cycling on/off. In the video, I would turn off/on the AC in order to replica the grinding sound when the clutch goes on. It gives a hard vibration when the clutch goes on. I did fill the R134 to 35psi or so. It started while I was in Virginia for the weekend. The vehicle just reached about 137,000 miles. Actually, I filled it with AC Pro a few weeks ago.

If the clutch is bad, how hard is it to replace? In the past, most of my vehicle I worked on, but never had a problem with AC. First time and having a newborn in a hot SUV isn't a good thing.

JRFORD, I did notice the rust on the pulley.

Exproblems, engine was running for over 10 minutes, It doesn't drop at all unless I am in the highway. That is why I asked could also be the fan clutch. I will call tomorrow and ask how much. Maybe someone could look at it with more experience.

UPDATE:

After dinner went to look under the truck and take off the belt to see the AC Compressor. While under the truck I notice a green looking oil. Looks like it came out of the AC Compressor. Not sure if the A/C Hose Assembly is the culprit or the AC Compressor. There was oil leaking from the hose it self. I took some photos. Tomorrow morning I will head to a shop and see what they tell me. Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[Exproblems]

Actually, I filled it with AC Pro a few weeks ago.

UPDATE:

After dinner went to look under the truck and take off the belt to see the AC Compressor. While under the truck I notice a green looking oil. Looks like it came out of the AC Compressor. Not sure if the A/C Hose Assembly is the culprit or the AC Compressor. There was oil leaking from the hose it self. I took some photos. Tomorrow morning I will head to a shop and see what they tell me. Thanks everyone for the help.


]

Did the can of AC Pro you used a few weeks ago contain a leak detecting dye additive in it? If so, that is probably what the green colored oil is you see leaking from under the AC compressor. I think you just found the source of your problems, a leaking AC hose. Low refrigerant would cause you AC compressor to cycle improperly and get higher output temps at the dash vents than they should be. Do not run your AC unit any further other than for quick testing purposes, you can damage that compressor running it low on refrigerant. Refrigerant or freon, contains the lubricating oil that lubricates the AC compressor as it runs. Hopefully, all you need is a new hose, but the system will need to be "evacuated with a vacuum pump"(removes contaminants and air) after the new part is installed, then recharged with new refrigerant. With parts and labor you are probably looking at a couple hundred bucks as long as it is just the hose that needs replacing.

 

[D Hook]

Any chance the green you see is from a coolant leak? That might explain the higher engine temp. I'm not sure the location of the leak is anywhere in proximity to a coolant line or waterpump assembly. Hard to tell from the pics.

 

[JR4815D2]

Did the can of AC Pro you used a few weeks ago contain a leak detecting dye additive in it? If so, that is probably what the green colored oil is you see leaking from under the AC compressor. I think you just found the source of your problems, a leaking AC hose. Low refrigerant would cause you AC compressor to cycle improperly and get higher output temps at the dash vents than they should be. Do not run your AC unit any further other than for quick testing purposes, you can damage that compressor running it low on refrigerant. Refrigerant or freon, contains the lubricating oil that lubricates the AC compressor as it runs. Hopefully, all you need is a new hose, but the system will need to be "evacuated with a vacuum pump"(removes contaminants and air) after the new part is installed, then recharged with new refrigerant. With parts and labor you are probably looking at a couple hundred bucks as long as it is just the hose that needs replacing.

AC Pro doesn't have a leak detecting dye, but the one I used prior EZ Chill does have R-134A Refrigerant With System Safe Leak Sealer. Looks like it could be the hose. I took the belt of last night. I cleaned the radiator fan clutch unit as well. It had a cake of dry mud. This morning I ran the unit and turned the AC as well. Didn't do the grinding noise.

Any chance the green you see is from a coolant leak? That might explain the higher engine temp. I'm not sure the location of the leak is anywhere in proximity to a coolant line or waterpump assembly. Hard to tell from the pics.

I checked the coolant, but no leak at all. This morning the coolant temp was reading 201 with AC on without the AC it read 190 degrees. It is greasy the green stuff.


Looks like the leak is coming from the arrow areas.

 

[Exproblems]

I checked the coolant, but no leak at all. This morning the coolant temp was reading 201 with AC on without the AC it read 190 degrees. It is greasy the green stuff.


]

If you were leaking antifreeze, you should have been able to smell it. It has that distinctive antifreeze odor to it.

 

[JR4815D2]

If you were leaking antifreeze, you should have been able to smell it. It has that distinctive antifreeze odor to it.

I checked all the hoses and didn't see Antifreeze leaks. I went for a long drive and tested the AC unit on a 90+ degree weather. When it goes on, a vibration is felt in the car. In the highway the AC works great. It gets a bit too cold, so I am assuming the compressor is working correctly if I am able to get really cold air. I am thinking it is just AC clutch and the hose with the problem. I will post the high and low reading later today. Could be also I might have a weak fan clutch as well.

Again, thank you to all for the responds. Great forum

 

[jrford]

in the last set of pics, are they all taken at the same time?
88F outside
54F at the vents
40psi (gauge maybe off?)

if all true you should be getting about 50psi which suggest its still low on freon and i also expect the temp to be a few degrees cooler closer to 50F.