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2006 Eddie Bauer 4.6 motor mounts

redneck90

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I have a 2006 Eddie Bauer with 3v 4.6 need help with motor mount locations an other issues
 
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Explorer_PL

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What is the questions ?

There are 2 motor mounts. One side is easier than the other, don't remember which one. When I was pulling my motor out, I replaced both of them but one side required removing or loosing up the front differential as it's blocking the nut for the mount. To do that I had to remove the front sway bar so it added additional 20 minutes of wrenching.

What are the other issues ?
Be more specific :)
 
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Bill MacLeod

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What info do you need?
To access the mounts, the inner splash liners need to be removed.
 
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redneck90

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OK here my issues it has 165k had good power an Trans shifts fine most of the time if you floor it the cluster an all electrical power shuts off an when you push the gas pedal the truck doesn't move an then Trans slams hard if I let of gas lights come back on but if I touch gas they go out an Trans acts up an I get wrench light when i pull battery for 30 mins it runs great only happens some times most of the time the Trans is smooth thinking ecu or motor mounts
 
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EAuckland

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Have you checked your charging system?
 
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Bill MacLeod

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Next time this happens, pull the codes before disconnecting the battery.
 
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redneck90

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OK will be awhile before i get codes atm its not registered as for charging runs with no battery connected an it does charge battery a
 
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granadojl

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Here's what the Shop Manual says. Hope this helps.

Explorer%20Engine%20Mounts.jpg
 
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granadojl

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I plan on installing new mounts on my 2006 4.6 tonight or tomorrow. If you'd like I can take pics of the process?
 
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EAuckland

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I'd like to see pics of that.
 
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08EddieCA

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I had the passenger side engine mount and my trans mount replaced when I had the transmission replaced. Quoted 3 hours labor for the driver side. I have the 4.0L V6. For my truck there is some minor disassembly required to swap out the driver side mount - per my mechanic.
 
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granadojl

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According to the Good book, the disassembly that is required to perform the mount swap is to remove the Throttle Body, Alternator, and PCV, Connect a bracket to the alternator mounting studs and lift the engine using an engine cradle.... I have accomplished swapping the driver's side mount by using this method as well as using a jack and a 2x4 to lift the engine by the oil pan. It is literally as simple as lifting engine, Unbolting the engine mount and slapping in a new one. If you use the Anchor mount like I did. You will have to remove the nut that is welded to the mount and drill the hole to 3/4" then use your original nut and tack weld it into place, then slap it in. tighten everything to spec and lower the engine. Booya. You're all done.

I didn't have much time to perform the passenger side mount due to weather, but when I do, i'll take some pics.
 
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Explorer_PL

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When I did mine, I used OEM parts, so no welding involved.
I had it much "easier" since I removed the engine :)
But like I said, one side nut is blocked by front differential from the bottom so sway bar has to go and differential needed to be dropped a little.
That was probably the passenger side.

PS: When I think about it now, did you have the correct part ? Maybe it was from a different year ? It's hard to believe that you would need to modify the part to fit by drilling and welding. But if that was the correct part, then Anchor just simply sucks. Nothing worse when you are in the middle of the job, and get to the part just to find out that it does not exactly fit.
 
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granadojl

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When I did mine, I used OEM parts, so no welding involved.
I had it much "easier" since I removed the engine :)
But like I said, one side nut is blocked by front differential from the bottom so sway bar has to go and differential needed to be dropped a little.
That was probably the passenger side.

PS: When I think about it now, did you have the correct part ? Maybe it was from a different year ? It's hard to believe that you would need to modify the part to fit by drilling and welding. But if that was the correct part, then Anchor just simply sucks. Nothing worse when you are in the middle of the job, and get to the part just to find out that it does not exactly fit.


I used the Anchor part number that Autozone recommends.. Does it fit? Will all aftermarket part fit like it should? ehhh, maybe not. I have no problem with cutting a brand new part to make it fit on any of my cars. I mean, I bought a new exhaust system from a mustang and immediately hacked it in 6 different places just to make it fit my Mark VII. Cutting the nut out and drilling the hole a little larger only took 5 minutes.... and 4 minutes of that was to allow the paint to dry after welding.
 
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