2006 XLT popping noise

[brianh]

Hello everyone,
I recently purchased a 2006 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 V6 a few weeks back. I love the vehicle, but I noticed something odd a few days ago. Mainly when I pull slowly in or out of a parking spot, sometimes while going straight after pulling out, I get a pop/ping type noise. It almost sounds like when you are trying to loosen a very tight lug nut. It is usually only one, sometimes two of the noise. I took it back to the dealer and they said it was the steering stops and greased them. I saw all the grease they used, but it still happens. I'm trying to track down what this is and where it is coming from. Seems to sound like it comes from the front, sometimes the back. Is this something common on these vehicles?

EDIT: I was able to get a video of the sound while turning in the driveway. You can hear the sound faintly at 18 seconds and good at about 23 seconds in the video.

Click here for video

Here is a picture of it. It was a one owner, 69,000 mile and it immaculate shape inside and out. Barely any rust underneath for being in PA.

 

[SBV45]

I haven't had mine long. I have not noticed it, but on other vehicles I have had, the ABS system lets out a clunk when you get over a certain forward speed. And that is normal. I looked for a mention of it in the owner manual but did not find it.

 

[Old As Dirt]

I had a 2004 EB that did that. The dealership replaced almost every component (CV joints, tie rods, bushings, etc.) Quietened it some, but not completely. They could never find what was doing it. Thank goodness for warranty.

 

[PEAR0119]

Mine does that once in a while, I mean barely at all I think it is since the 4x4 auto hubs binding slightly. I do believe that when the truck is in 4x4 auto it is sending something like 10% torque to front wheels and 90% torque to rear wheels or something like that. I heard that this noise is normal with the auto hubs in the 4x4.

 

[swshawaii]

The OEM front sway bar end links are a common failure, inexpensive, and easy to check.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_En.pdf

 

[brianh]

Thanks everyone. I just replaced the sway bar end links today. The noise is still there. It has also developed a thumping noise now in the past few days since I posted. The thump is much more pronounced when making a hard left with the weight pushed over to the passenger side. Now it makes me think this noise may be from a bad front wheel bearing.

I need to get it back to the dealer since I just purchased it a couple weeks ago. I'm sure they are going to tell me nothing is wrong since it has a 3 month 3,000 full warranty on it.

 

[waskly]

if i had to guess, front drive shaft u joint is frozen.

 

[brianh]

Is it possible to grease or lube the front u joint? Or is that something that would just need replaced?

 

[Old As Dirt]

Take it to the dealer before - 1. It runs out of warranty 2.Trying to fix it yourself and losing the chance of them fixing it under warranty.

 

[Town]

Thanks everyone. I just replaced the sway bar end links today. The noise is still there. It has also developed a thumping noise now in the past few days since I posted. The thump is much more pronounced when making a hard left with the weight pushed over to the passenger side. Now it makes me think this noise may be from a bad front wheel bearing.

I need to get it back to the dealer since I just purchased it a couple weeks ago. I'm sure they are going to tell me nothing is wrong since it has a 3 month 3,000 full warranty on it.

A bad wheel bearing that allows side loads to cause a noise is going to be very noisy while driven down the hwy. The upper and lower ball joints can make a noise over bumps and while turning.

You may want to check the lower and upper ball joints. Support the front part of the frame so that the front wheel is off the ground. Try to move the wheel up and down and in and out to check for wheel bearing looseness. Then look at the lower ball joint between the lower control arm and the knuckle while lifting (I use a lever under tire) up and letting the wheel down. The free play should be almost zero (max is 32 thou inches 0.032") measured with a dial gauge. If you see movement then replace it. The upper ball joint is measured by trying to move the upper control arm up and down and the maximum free play is 8 thou inches (0.008") measured with a dial gauge between control arm and knuckle. If you can see movement then replace it. Repeat the tests for the other front wheel.

Good luck.

 

[Town]

Is it possible to grease or lube the front u joint? Or is that something that would just need replaced?

The factory u joints have sealed bearings and no place to pump grease in. Aftermarket joints may have a grease nipple or cup for a fine nose grease gun fitting.

A failed U joint will allow movement in the joint due to bearings being worn out and will cause a drivetrain vibration at even low speeds. Engaging forward and then reverse will likely cause a clunking sound in the drivetrain.

 

[swshawaii]

A bad wheel bearing that allows side loads to cause a noise is going to be very noisy while driven down the hwy. The upper and lower ball joints can make a noise over bumps and while turning.

You may want to check the lower and upper ball joints. Support the front part of the frame so that the front wheel is off the ground. Try to move the wheel up and down and in and out to check for wheel bearing looseness. Then look at the lower ball joint between the lower control arm and the knuckle while lifting (I use a lever under tire) up and letting the wheel down. The free play should be almost zero (max is 32 thou inches 0.032") measured with a dial gauge. If you see movement then replace it. The upper ball joint is measured by trying to move the upper control arm up and down and the maximum free play is 8 thou inches (0.008") measured with a dial gauge between control arm and knuckle. If you can see movement then replace it. Repeat the tests for the other front wheel.

Good luck.

Agree, although that high pitched pop at 23 seconds is different from any ball joint noise I've heard.
I had a rear passenger UCA camber nut loosen 1/8" causing a similar noise over small, low speed bumps.

 

[brianh]

Thanks everyone. I will more than likely take it back to the dealer in a few days and have them take a look. It's good to know what to check though, because we all know the dealerships are not always honest. I have received the "everything looks normal to us" line way too many times in the past.

I jacked it up and checked all four tires, everything is solid as a rock with zero play. Wheel bearings are not making any noise down the road either. Maybe this weekend I will crawl under and check all the nuts and bolts for tightness. I do notice a bit of a clunk when shifting through gears.

I will be sure to post back the solution if I or the dealer find one!!

 

[jasongal]

I have a 2005 Mountaineer that gives out a strange clunk when I turn left. In fact I can feel it on the drivers side. Just took it to the mechanic and he says its the front wheel bearing. I have my doubts as there is no vibration or whining sound at either high or low speeds and apart from that, she rides fine. Any clues?
By the way I replaced my Cooper H/T tires with a set of Toyo Open Country tires. Believe me toyo are the WORST tyres you could possibly install in a Mountaineer!

 

[brianh]

Problem solved! I took it to the dealership today and they replaced the drivers side wheel bearing. It drives smooth as butter now.

I can't believe that in a matter of a few days it went from a small noise to sounding like the wheel was going to fall off.

So now I hope the passenger side doesn't start going bad, I may just replace it myself when I get some extra cash.